ESE's works engine tuner

[Pursang]

If the top ring friction force is nearly 50N at TDC how can the ring power loss at TDC be zero?

Power =work done / time

= force X distance / time

= force X velocity

= 50 X 0

=0

The friction power loss is greatest when the piston is moving fastest. Zero when it's stationary.

Cheers, Daryl

[Hemi Makutu]

F1 changed from super-expensive, fragile/wasteful ultra-high rpm N/A V10/V8 mills to a design concept
that would appear to be more durable/efficient, the lower rpm hybrid turbo-compound...

Cost however, of making such engines hack high heat/pressure - instead of rpm, remains real high.

Fact is, 4Ts 'Have one power stroke, then three to wear the engine out' - to paraphrase R-R engineer Stanley Hooker.

To get 4Ts to do some decent work, you have to rev their tits off, or supercharge them, (chemically &/or by pumps),
which always ends up being a complex/costly exericise..

[Pursang]

F1 changed from super-expensive, fragile/wasteful ultra-high rpm N/A V10/V8 mills to a design concept
that would appear to be more durable/efficient, the lower rpm hybrid turbo-compound...

Cost however, of making such engines hack high heat/pressure - instead of rpm, remains real high.

If I had my way they could still be using old 4cyl BMW road car engines if they wanted and whatever aerodynamics & tyres they think work best.
Formula Libre is #1 for me

Fact is, 4Ts 'Have one power stroke, then three to wear the engine out' - to paraphrase R-R engineer Stanley Hooker.

Wise man, and clearly seen in the Ricardo graphs.

Cheers, Daryl.

[Hemi Makutu]

A compact expansion chamber using "large angle diffuser" ( LAD) multiple internal cone flow vectoring, perhaps?

Anyone game to try it?

www.chengfluid.com/flow_conditioner/

[Pursang]

Quick easy dyno experiment: 1X used piston, cut a ring groove around the skirt, shouldn't need a full skirt because it's below the ports & not holding any pressure, just the skirt off the bore. Fit a worn in/out ring, check that it doesn't drop out the bottom of the liner, check ring gap through stroke & pin it to prevent rotation.

Easier than most things you have tried.

PS, don't expect it to last too long and don't use your good barrel.
.

Quick easy experiment #2. If you're uncomfortable with adding a ring to the bottom of a piston, you could do a quick and dirty run with these.


Hole in skirt (front & rear) to let ball protrude. Countersunk brass screws & nuts to adjust. (Could also add some springs or rubber, for a tiny bit of pre-load). Should roll in and out (over/through?) inlet/transfer ports, if required. Or use 2 one on either side of port or piston cut-out.

Similar PS applies: don't expect it to last for more than a couple of minutes and don't use your good engine.

A couple of back to backs (without & with) should disclose if any significant benefit is available.
(15 KW in the Ricardo tests, assume that's per piston so +66% for the 125, worth a look?)
Remember though, it was only 15KW peak at max piston speed so any improvements will be averaged.

PPS, keeping the piston square in the bore might help those Wisecos survive better too.

PM me if it works. Don't sue me if it doesn't.

Cheers, Daryl

[Hemi Makutu]

Quick easy experiment #2. If you're uncomfortable with adding a ring to the bottom of a piston, you could do a quick and dirty run with these.

Hole in skirt (front & rear) to let ball protrude. Countersunk brass screws & nuts to adjust. (Could also add some springs or rubber, for a tiny bit of pre-load). Should roll in and out of inlet/transfer ports, if required.

Similar PS applies: don't expect it to last for more than a couple of minutes and don't use your good engine.

A couple of back to backs (without & with) should disclose if any significant benefit is available.
(15 KW in the Ricardo tests, assume that's per piston so +66% for the 125, worth a look?)

PM me if it works. Don't sue me if it doesn't.

Cheers, Daryl

Fit the brass ball/roller nibs in the thrust face & pre-load with lube, instead of ink?

[Drew]

Neither did I, but I'm sure someone did.

Quick easy dyno experiment: 1X used piston, cut a ring groove around the skirt, shouldn't need a full skirt because it's below the ports & not holding any pressure, just the skirt off the bore. Fit a worn in/out ring, check that it doesn't drop out the bottom of the liner, check ring gap through stroke & pin it to prevent rotation.

Easier than most things you have tried.

PS, don't expect it to last too long and don't use your good barrel.

cheers, Daryl.

How do you lubricate the piston/sleeve?

[Flettner]

Now your just taking the piss.

[adegnes]

+1 on your crank truing vid. I made a jig that holds the crank webs in allignment when I press. I normally put some green loctite in the holes in the crankwebs (a little, so there is no exces that comes out and glues your big end solid,... don't ask). They always come out true. Until last, when the pressure gage of my hydraulic press broke and I decided to eyeball it. pushed too hard and had misallignment. Frits his method with the bolt worked nicely. The axial missaligment was an other story. Gently tapping was no longer enough to adjust it. Got it true in the end though.

Wondering if it's a good idea now to put some loctite in the holes on the crankweb (or if it even helps at all)? Comes from a rotax manual I believe.

jig looks like this

Attachment 326376

this looks interesting. Never tried it though. (maybe beef it up a little)

Attachment 326377

Thanks!
......

[Pursang]

How do you lubricate the piston/sleeve?

Piston & liner will be exposed to air/fuel/oil through the inlet & transfer ports.
Fuel vaporises and leaves some oil behind.
Doesn't need much cos there's bugger all contact between the piston & liner.

Remember this is just an idea for a quick dyno test. Squirt some oil on it during assembly.

Cheers Daryl.

[Pursang]

Quick easy experiment #2. If you're uncomfortable with adding a ring to the bottom of a piston, you could do a quick and dirty run with these.


Hole in skirt (front & rear) to let ball protrude. Countersunk brass screws & nuts to adjust. (Could also add some springs or rubber, for a tiny bit of pre-load). Should roll in and out (over/through?) inlet/transfer ports, if required. Or use 2 one on either side of port or piston cut-out.

Similar PS applies: don't expect it to last for more than a couple of minutes and don't use your good engine.

A couple of back to backs (without & with) should disclose if any significant benefit is available.
(15 KW in the Ricardo tests, assume that's per piston so +66% for the 125, worth a look?)
Remember though, it was only 15KW peak at max piston speed so any improvements will be averaged.

PPS, keeping the piston square in the bore might help those Wisecos survive better too.

PM me if it works. Don't sue me if it doesn't.

The screwed on ball bearings might be a bit rough, even for me.

How about Brass brake shoe rivets? Brass Thumb tacks?

How about Teflon buttons, shaped like thumbtacks, countersunk into the skirt?

Quick & easy to do, should give enough life for a few runs before it all turns to poo.
Works for Harleys on Nitro.



Credit for the pics to this site: https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/bulbenefit2011.html

Cheers, Daryl

[rgvbaz]

Attachment 326268



Cant see it in the picture but the exhaust fan has been put inside a piece of air duct that used to go around a pot belly stove chimney. The fan itself is a 200mm 400V 3 phase unit a friend rescued from the skip for me so I don't really know where you could buy one. Behind Cully is another 200mm fan that draws fresh air from outside and blows it over the dyno operators.

For an exhaust extractor fan, the gutted propane heater looks a very good idea.

I'm using a gutted propane heater, works ok(for 50cc atleast).


I've actually got a proper exhaust extraction fan, but that's used for cooling. When I think about it my bike always seems to be "overcooled" on the dyno, might switch them around.

Thanks for the info guys.

A few pics of our dyno:



Dave

[adegnes]

Thanks for the info guys.

A few pics of our dyno:



Dave

That's a nice clean looking dyno, especially found of the front wheel mount!

How about some "slow tv" to round off the evening.

https://youtu.be/hlsogG-zcC0

[jonny quest]

Tell me what you used for inertia wheel on your dyno

[rgvbaz]

That's a nice clean looking dyno, especially found of the front wheel mount

Cheers adegnes