ESE's works engine tuner

[Muciek]

Also the TM KV series engines

[husaberg]

I have to ask about the dual disc concept. If there are rotary discs on both sides of the crank (and I assume also carbs on either side), where will the output gear go? Seems like there would be some packaging issues.

https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1130703351
The suzuki gp100 etc engines and kawaski singles have the primary drive outboard of the disc valve as well.

not including the Bridgestone and Kawaski disc vlave parallel twins of the 60's

The Kawaski kr250 road bike tandems did as well.

The other solution is to do what Suzuki did with the RG500

The same as Yamaha did with the rd05 or RA31 they also had overlapping discs all in a compact 75 degree angle.
https://enoanderson.com/wp-content/u...aha-ra31-7.jpg

[d2t]

I see. Thanks all for the replies. I have little to go on other than my current batch of modern engines (most of which are reed valved).

[peewee]

hey guys today im very excited the cylinder is leek free. it held 16psi for 5min with zero pressure loss. but I fear the comp ratio still may be a bit high (about 18:1) but im not sure since the fuel is methanol. piston to head clearance im not sure whether its good or not until I try it, maybe there will be contact or maybe not. theres a slight convergance as it goes toward center (.8mm to .9mm). any thoughts or suggestions about these two situations ? i can lower the comp ratio and increase the piston gap if needed or i can try it and see what happens. most importantly the cylinder has no pin holes from all the welding . now I just pray the studs don't pull up

[TZ350]

hey guys today im very excited the cylinder is leek free. it held 16psi for 5min with zero pressure loss.

Looking good, great work. ....

My own experiance with Methanol (actually 50/50 methanol acetone) was to leave the compression the same as for petrol because it was thought the extra cooling effect of the alcohol delivered a denser charge so needed comparatively less compression.

[Flettner]

Hi,

At the moment I can not say anything about the engine power characteristic and reliability, only passion as soon as possible to start the engine and to hear is it revs or ..... I never hear before so nice and powerful sound on this engine on full gas (at the moment this all I can tell, I do not have dyno all bikes test on the road). Bike not yet ready only naked chassis, engine, pipe (not full ready), ignition ,carb, wheels. No brakes and other stuffs.
When I started drawings (3 months ago) I begin to understand complexity that Ryger overcome (ex. assembling piston to conrod with that plate). Complete structure depends on how high can lift cylinder. On most motorcycle maybe 30mm is max, because no room in chassis. This is first dimension that you need to consider. And that means its impossible to use (ON MOTORCYCLE) original conrod (too long). Piston structure again depends on how high can lift cylinder. If piston is one peace aluminium, smaller piston can be coated or not. If coated (nicasil or something) seal ring is located in small aluminium cylinder (not coated). If small piston is not coated (cylinder coated or iron) , then seal ring must be on piston (aluminium wear out if seal located on cylinder) and must be lower than piston pin (higher than pin weakens small piston) and seal on the piston means long small cylinder and higher lifted cylinder. So for full aluminium piston, coated small piston is best selection, but Jan Thiel wrote, that Ryger had problems with coated piston.
Other selection is two or three parts piston. I do not have the possibilities to coat piston, so for me left this. It is possible to made three or more different construction. After made first piston, I release that is better options (lighter), but job is done test engine with that.

1. Plate thick 20 mm ( two peace - pate aw 2024, removable small cylinder Al-Si al4)
2. Piston 57 mm. tree parts ( aluminium parts from solid AL 2618, small piston tube CroMo hard chromed 38 mm.)
3. Cylinder 57 mm. Honda ns 400
4. Conrod Kawasaki KX100 (center to center 92 mm. big end 22x29 mm. small end 14x19 mm. .) but now i think KTM SX 85 conrod is beter center to center 96 mm big end 22x28 mm smal end 14x19 and looks stronger.
5. Crankcase with oil, but no sump no anything only conected through bearing with other cylinder crankcase space because this only experiment and if engine works then made two cylinder engine with sump.
6. Pipe is stainless handmade (one honda rs 125 copy other aprilia rsw 125 copy) both tested on normal engine
7. Carburetor Honda nsr 250 mc 28 tb 32 mm. Reed valve std. ns400 four petal.
8. Ignition Honda Rs 250 ND5 1985 (honda made racing ignition for this crankcase in racing version)
9. Combustion chamber 13.5 cc (with plug) squash 0.9 mm

Do you have a video of it running? May we see it?

[peewee]

Looking good, great work. ....

My own experiance with Methanol (actually 50/50 methanol acetone) was to leave the compression the same as for petrol because it was thought the extra cooling effect of the alcohol delivered a denser charge so needed comparatively less compression.

and im thinking it may beat the hell out of the rod and bearings, not to mention its so damn hard to kick start with that much static pressure. this weekend ill lower it down to a more acceptable ratio.

[F5 Dave]

And the converging squish is a no-no, can lead to deto aand head gasket failure.

[koenich]

4. Especially important thing about Ryger consruction: all four planes ( crankcase, plate, cylinder) must be PERFECTLY parallel among themselves and PERFECTLY perpendicular to conrod and piston, small and big cylinder must be PERFECTLY in center. Its critical.

I thought about that too, the tolerance stack-up for the Ryger set-up is horrible...however, congrats to your effort!

[DoldGuy]

hey guys today im very excited the cylinder is leek free. it held 16psi for 5min with zero pressure loss. but I fear the comp ratio still may be a bit high (about 18:1) but im not sure since the fuel is methanol. piston to head clearance im not sure whether its good or not until I try it, maybe there will be contact or maybe not. theres a slight convergance as it goes toward center (.8mm to .9mm). any thoughts or suggestions about these two situations ? i can lower the comp ratio and increase the piston gap if needed or i can try it and see what happens. most importantly the cylinder has no pin holes from all the welding . now I just pray the studs don't pull up

Also starting the bike on Gas (fill the carb bowl with premix) will be SO MUCH easier versus the methanol. Wobbly has posted his Methanol Motors like Stupid Compression.

Left Side Kick KTM...440 or 550?

[peewee]

Left Side Kick KTM...440 or 550?

its neither, but rather a mix of parts I put together (550 crankshaft, 500 cylinder, Honda rod and piston). the reason its neither is simple in my eyes. 440 (89x70) is so far over square, I question whether it would make any power at all. 550 used a short rod (140mm) and high piston pin. the result was a very small crankcase volume for such a large engine, not to mention a few other problems associated with a short rod and high piston pin ( aux exh ports couldn't be made much larger because the piston would uncover them at tdc).

by using the longer rod, lower piston pin (with lower side skirting), and 500 cylinder, I was able to lift the cylinder 9mm. crankcase volume increased, aux exh could be made large as I wanted, reduced load on the piston inlet side and surely less friction.

ive ran this lower end on methanol before ( with different cylinder) and it always started just fine on methanol. actually I wonder if it would even start with petrol since the fuel passages are so large. when flushing the engine at the end of the day, 8oz of petrol was all it will consume before it dies. presumably because it just floods the crankcase and cant be burned. to start the engine later, I just drained the bowl of petrol and filled it with methanol from a large syringe. worked a treat everytime

[SwePatrick]

and im thinking it may beat the hell out of the rod and bearings, not to mention its so damn hard to kick start with that much static pressure. this weekend ill lower it down to a more acceptable ratio.

18-1 isn´t high in a twostroke for methanol use.
Maybe when using it with acetone, but not with pure methanol and 4% oil.

I actually never heard of an engine that has broken a rod due to high compression.
Only where mistakes have been made and the piston hits the head and then they have blamed the compression.

[peewee]

Patrick im sure a small 2t would do fine at 18:1 but what about with 90.5mm piston ? unfortunately I have no test dyno to see if it makes the same power at lower comp ratios.

[F5 Dave]

18-1 isn´t high in a twostroke for methanol use.
Maybe when using it with acetone, but not with pure methanol and 4% oil.

I actually never heard of an engine that has broken a rod due to high compression.
Only where mistakes have been made and the piston hits the head and then they have blamed the compression.

Well, to be fair compression is the problem. . . just not compression ratio

[husaberg]

18-1 isn´t high in a twostroke for methanol use.
Maybe when using it with acetone, but not with pure methanol and 4% oil.

I actually never heard of an engine that has broken a rod due to high compression.
Only where mistakes have been made and the piston hits the head and then they have blamed the compression.

Patrick im sure a small 2t would do fine at 18:1 but what about with 90.5mm piston ? unfortunately I have no test dyno to see if it makes the same power at lower comp ratios.

Bell tops out at 15.5-16:1 for a Liquid colled 500 on methanol compared to a 50 or 100 running at 20:1 or 19:1 respecfully.
In the absence of any other futher more up to date information (Frits Wob a or Mr Thiel)or a Sim i would start lower say 13.5:1-14 and work your way up.
You have a tig afterall so making changes later is not to hard.
I have a suspicion the big end bearing and parts hardware rather will actually decide your upper compression limit.
Have you o-ringed the head with something substantial, like SS and maybe order some new head studs and base studs (if the KatieM has them.)
Ps i hope you have starting rollers and a big ol American pick up to drive them.
Maybe a proper manual comp release might be an idea, i know they are available aftermarket for CR500's you could fit one above the exhaust port at 90 degrees to the cylinder.
i recall you having some sort of bleed port their anyway.
For the time you intend running it i don't think long term sealing will be an issue