OK, couldn’t find an actual piston from the engines I was referring to, but this is another similar research piston we did for a company when they were investigating DI for various applications, nearly 20 years ago. It was an Ø86 * 86 size.
Funny though, it looks a lot like this one http://www.lotuscars.com/engineering...esearch-engine
This piston in the pic was just an early off tool sample and was used for refining the casting and Molykote D10 spraying process.
I reckon that if I was going down this road I’d go for an oversquare engine to reduce piston length and weight. I know it goes against all the port area/STA stuff, but my thoughts are more towards a utilitarian application, not needing to rev the tits off it as perhaps Alex is considering.
Check out my YouTube channel! - 2STROKE STUFFING -
https://www.youtube.com/2STROKESTUFFING
Two strokes & rum!
Interesting engine, would also be good for research work.
I also liked their rotary valve engine idea.
http://www.aqpl43.dsl.pipex.com/MUSE...veIC.htm#lotus
Here you go, Bishop rotary valve, Australian stuff:
http://home.people.net.au/~mrbdesign...utoTechBRV.pdf
That's the one! Thanks, been a while since I've looked at that concept.
I once had a Coates rotary valve engine sitting in my shop while a legal investigation was taking place. Neat concept, but with obvious faults.
Of coarse my lack of rotary valve 2 stroke experience will shine through, but it always seemed that the rotating window of the RV would be problematic to inlet flow...causing a "sprinkler" effect, I don't know how else to describe it.
I don't run a det counter and I really want to understand my 98 RS125 better so I got an EGT. It's a standard engine, ignition, pipe, carb, etc. Only changes are a VHM head with a standard profile 10.4cc insert, and a reed block stuffer (stock reeds).
How far down the header should I be putting this probe? and how far into the header should it be?
I've searched the ESE thread and saw some comment on jetting to certain Fahrenheit temps at wide open throttle. Are these temps pretty universal across race 2 strokes? Any other advice on how I should get my own base line and at what point this stock 125 of mine might lunch itself is greatly appreciated.
One of these:
Other discussion in the thread:
Chris. Had wondered if you had disappeared. Guage instructions usually say 5-6" down header (note bung on your 50). But I've read Wob quote much shorter. Don't shorten sensor lead but that made for intolerable length on my kit as car based. Your kit looks much shorter.
Just mounted it on the 500 but not reading stable when engine running. Been suggested that I run an earth from the sensor to the gauge earth. I should know that shit.
Slip joint. Rubber mounts. Yeah can see that being a ground issue.
Probe needs to be exposed type. Mine claimed to be superb but I doubt it.
Run it up on the dyno with bung fitted and then with probe to see that it isn't influencing. Played havoc on the 50. The 500 doesn't seem to care.
I see a clamp type of wire splice in that kit. Quickly stamp on it and throw it in the bin. Preferably on fire.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
From Wobbly on page 562 he suggests 150mm
That was in 2012 . . .
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1130362060
Have a Digatron Gauge, instructions say 5-6 inches from the face of the piston, mounted mine at 6. Just remember it's your temp readings, they can be higher or lower readings based on placement. It's a great tool gathering data & can save you from a melt down.
My gauge has the RPM pickup from the spark plug coil & instructed to keep the EGT/Temp leads away from the RPM lead as there can be interference if too close, giving erratic readings on other data.
Check out my YouTube channel! - 2STROKE STUFFING -
https://www.youtube.com/2STROKESTUFFING
Two strokes & rum!
There are currently 17 users browsing this thread. (1 members and 16 guests)
Bookmarks