ESE's works engine tuner

[breezy]

[QUOTE=JanBros;1131058426]when starting, the throttle valve is down and almost completly closes the crankcase. one could say that their is only a small "leak" : not enough to push everything that the piston moving down is pushed out through the carb and so some make it into the cylinder

is it possible that a fluctuating pressure differential between the leaking through the carb at btdc and atmosphere is occurring, performing a pumping action?

[Lightbulb]

My cousin was in a really bad accident when the throttle would not close, the ignition was disabled, it continued to the wall flat out.
It was put down to the platinum iridium plugs that they were using at the time. Model glow plug engines have been know to start
from dead cold from time to time when people put the starter on to them. I have seen a near flooded engine start from just flicking it over.
These engines that have easily started were using just methanol and castor oil. Engines that run the 10% to 30% nitro definitely restart
easier and will do so upto 10 seconds from the engine stopping and just a flick will make them restart without electrically igniting the glow plug.
Model engines usually use a fuel shut off to stop them.
Something that has been over looked , but is easiest done with EFI is to stop the fuel to shut down the engine. It is a good idea to develop some
form of fuel shut off that closes the main jet by some yet to be developed means could be a good thing.
I know it does not happen very often, an auto ignition situation, but if it is you that goes into a wall and then spend the rest of your life in recovery mode
is no fun at all.
Discussion is always good though and seeing other peoples experiences.
Neil

[adegnes]

Two solenoids, one cutting off supply to the carb, one dumping the floatbowl into suitable place would do the trick. Could be connected to the ignition kill switch.
Might make something like that if I ever get on the road...

[guyhockley]

Old aircooled VWs had an "Anti-dieseling solenoid valve".
And, Mazda have just announced their new "Compression Ignition Petrol Engine" that only uses plugs for starting and cold running...

[guyhockley]

Fletto, absolutely. Well done Alex.

Aways wondered if this one actually ran or even started. (was a simple Ozzie mod to make a Beeza Bantam to put out more than 3 hp)

Attachment 332112Attachment 332113

Funny when one sees a reed valved 125 kart engine not even start/run properly when a reed tip has broken off. Maybe the starting was due to being cranked with an electric starter, whereas that muscly Alex was probably spinning his at well over 2k rpm at least. (Probably could have done more, but didn’t want to wake all his kiddies).

Maybe for KZ racing one could have a reed valve made with some material that would fail (eg a condom, preferably new ) that would pass thru the engine with no damage and then be 24/7 from then on, gaining its 5 hp.

So many things to try. 1 hour to go til the Moto GP starts, been a bit starved of late.

Not exactly a performance engine - this is from an article called "The Old J80 Johnson" and elsewhere he said it was a 1hp outboard:

"The old motor ran good too... first pull,
hot or cold... had to work the choke and sihgle
needle valve with some expertise. My grand-
children and I took it to Lake Iamonia on my
old Grumman Sport boat to see what it was
like.Though it thrummed the aluminum pretty
good, it didn't vibrate nearly as bad asl ex-
pected. It is one of those primitive old
slow-speed, two-cycle engines that aspirates
right into the cast iron cylinder when the little
two inch piston opens the port at the bottom
of the stroke.
Since the fuel doesn't go through the
crankcase like modern two cycle engines, all
that is lubricated by an expostulation of oil
and gasoline (8o2., a small Coca Cola bottle,
to the gallon) from the cylinder at each com-
pression stroke through little tubes to both
crankshaft bearings and through holes in the
crankshaft to the connecting rod joumal, wrist
pin, and all, like a four cycle engine with an
oil pump... kind of marvelous.
There are no seals on anything (except a
regular adjustable, leather packing gland,
"Chicago Rawhide" on the propeller shaft) and
that makes it smoke out from under the fly-
wheel a little bit while it is cold but when it
warms up, it is cleaner running than a British
Seagull. It has a dry exhaust and you can see
how much it is smoking and lean it on down
with the big-knob style needle valve. Got a
big aluminum take-apart muffler sort of like a
Model T which it is good to avoid when you
have to tilt it, that and the spark plug and the
flywheel."

[ken seeber]

http://newatlas.com/mazda-skyactiv-x...gnition/50803/

Didn't say anything about 70k rpm though..

[Flettner]

Still using spark plugs but.

[SwePatrick]

Question:

Pvl analog ignition,
Is there any way to get more meat out of the spark?

I´m at this point using no resistance things thoughout whole system
Getting misfires when trying to reach more power at this point.
I have gapped the plug down to 0.3mm, under that it starts to misfire at idle.
But it still misfires above 74hp(engine hp)

I have tried different plugs and different setups with resistors, best is totally free from resistors and non iridium/platinum
plugs.

I have also tried a ignitech ignition, it had no juice at all, but big possibilities of upgrades, but i felt that if everythings getting beefier the bike gets heavier and gained power would be eaten up by weightincrease so i ditched that
The PVL is an '458' with 4000 windings, and the curve seems to work just fine therefor i would like to give it a chance.

Rgds
Patrick

[adegnes]

Question:

Pvl analog ignition,
Is there any way to get more meat out of the spark?

I´m at this point using no resistance things thoughout whole system
Getting misfires when trying to reach more power at this point.
I have gapped the plug down to 0.3mm, under that it starts to misfire at idle.
But it still misfires above 74hp(engine hp)

I have tried different plugs and different setups with resistors, best is totally free from resistors and non iridium/platinum
plugs.

I have also tried a ignitech ignition, it had no juice at all, but big possibilities of upgrades, but i felt that if everythings getting beefier the bike gets heavier and gained power would be eaten up by weightincrease so i ditched that
The PVL is an '458' with 4000 windings, and the curve seems to work just fine therefor i would like to give it a chance.

Rgds
Patrick

What coil?
Maybe you could try one with higher primary-secondary winding ratio?

[lodgernz]

I knocked this up the other day.

It's just a prototype to test whether the twisted belt arrangement is capable of high revs.
To my surprise, it was untroubled by blips to 14,000RPM and sustained 12,000 for a few seconds.
Here's a video of it running: https://youtu.be/7Ffs1x145zw

I set the timing to: Open 135º BTDC, Close 80º ATDC, but once assembled, I found it was 5º late (at both ends, obviously) so it ran a bit hairy. I can fix that of course. Main object was to prove the belt drive.

I have no idea whether this setup will provide more power, although I suspect it might produce a better mid-range curve.
I'd appreciate any comments or advice.
Dyno time needed...

[adegnes]

I knocked this up the other day.

It's just a prototype to test whether the twisted belt arrangement is capable of high revs.
To my surprise, it was untroubled by blips to 14,000RPM and sustained 12,000 for a few seconds.
Here's a video of it running: https://youtu.be/7Ffs1x145zw

I set the timing to: Open 135º BTDC, Close 80º ATDC, but once assembled, I found it was 5º late (at both ends, obviously) so it ran a bit hairy. I can fix that of course. Main object was to prove the belt drive.

I have no idea whether this setup will provide more power, although I suspect it might produce a better mid-range curve.
I'd appreciate any comments or advice.
Dyno time needed...

Nice!
.........

[TZ350]

I knocked this up the other day.

Dyno time needed...

Very clever .... looking forward to seeing it at the track.

[F5 Dave]

Gordon Bennett. Looks good. Supposed to be dirt riding Sunday but if its too wet might get some dyno time in. Or one night.

[Flettner]

I knocked this up the other day.

It's just a prototype to test whether the twisted belt arrangement is capable of high revs.
To my surprise, it was untroubled by blips to 14,000RPM and sustained 12,000 for a few seconds.
Here's a video of it running: https://youtu.be/7Ffs1x145zw

I set the timing to: Open 135º BTDC, Close 80º ATDC, but once assembled, I found it was 5º late (at both ends, obviously) so it ran a bit hairy. I can fix that of course. Main object was to prove the belt drive.

I have no idea whether this setup will provide more power, although I suspect it might produce a better mid-range curve.
I'd appreciate any comments or advice.
Dyno time needed...

Nice, x2....

[SwePatrick]

What coil?
Maybe you could try one with higher primary-secondary winding ratio?

PVL 458 coil.
I dunno the exact function of PVL´s coils, but they have some sort of internal electronic that one could say very simplified has a function of a cdi.

From stator to coil there is only two wires that controls everything *lol*