ESE's works engine tuner

[lodgernz]

love it, make closing at 90* atdc

Really? Everything I've read says that's a bit late. Wobbly? Frits? Any comment?

[wobbly]

The Aprilia had it at 140/90 for peak at around 13,000.
Any earlyer and the carbs go to shit, any later and it looses all the mid.
Early closing at say 85 looses all the overev.

[SwePatrick]

The PVL coil is a CDI and coil in one, and there are no different winding ratios available.
One magnet on the rotor supplies the power to the CDI the other activates the trigger.
There are various stator windings available,and the more turns ( like 4000 ) the greater the retard available but less " power " at the plug.
I got 5000 turn coils made years ago ( no plastic covering ) to use on Banshee quads as the kick start hardly turns the thing over and the high ratio
winding gives a fatter spark at kickover ( also more retard as a bonus ).
But anything other than a pretty much stock engine and the plugs would misfire at higher rpm.
The kart stators are the lowest number of turns ( 50 ohms ) and have no trouble at all with high speed high power engines, but that has a useless dead straight ( flat ) line ignition curve.
They do run best with no resistance, in the cap or the plug, but sadly there are no trick rare earth plugs available with no internal resistance - that would be the best case scenario.

Edit - TM sell a Brisk plug with no resistance that does work well with the PVL - part on box is L08S Silver 1827

Thanks for info.
I´m just sold to the stability of PVL, solid like a tank, never fails.(well, not yet)
And the curve seems to fit my engine just perfectly now after activating the exhaustports.(had them locked open before).
I have a perfect flat torque powerband that´s about 3500rpm wide.

And by that i want to give the PVL 458/4000 some more chances.
I dunno, but i ordered some silver sparkplugs just to minimize losses in spark.
Maybe a pluglead with silvercore could help also.
Dunno if even exists thou.

Rgds.
Patrick

[lodgernz]

The Aprilia had it at 140/90 for peak at around 13,000.
Any earlyer and the carbs go to shit, any later and it looses all the mid.
Early closing at say 85 looses all the overev.

Thanks Wobbly.
My 50 also had peak power at 13K with reeds, so, if I read you correctly, my timing of 135/80 is going to give reasonable mid-range but not peak power, and bugger all over-rev?
Damn, I'll have to make a new disk blade.

[Flettner]

Shift the housing.

[lodgernz]

Shift the housing.

I don't know what you mean Neil, but on thinking about it, I can just cut the existing blade to extend the open period and retime it.

[JanBros]

anybody looking for a cheap DIY programable ignition ?

I searched the entire net (in english) for one I could understand/built/program myself, but no luck finding one that ticked all the boxes.
until I once searched in french, and bingo

all that is needed are :
arduino nano
ibgt
hall sensor

and if you use an arduino clone, a voltage regulator.

http://a110a.free.fr/SPIP172/article...id_article=142

depending on the Hall-sensor you use, can be made for under 20 euro, easy to built and easy to program
the 1GT101DC is quite expensive, but I found one that is almost identical and works, for about half the price : http://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/elec...asheet.pdf.pdf

mine worked in a testing setup today





inner tube arrounfd the box to cover the USB plug (just prototyping)



softare (arduino file) is ready, just copy-paste. there are 4 parameters to enter (dwell-type, hall-sensor type, ° of sensor compared to TDC and nr of cylinders)
then there are 2 lines one for rpm and one for the corresponding ° of advance. one can have infinite setup-points. just change the points, plug-in the usb cable and in less than a minute you have a new curve in the box

if anybody needs help with hte french, just ask

[2T Institute]

Thanks Wobbly.
My 50 also had peak power at 13K with reeds, so, if I read you correctly, my timing of 135/80 is going to give reasonable mid-range but not peak power, and bugger all over-rev?
Damn, I'll have to make a new disk blade.

A 50cc should be just flat out everywhere and rev to 17,000

[F5 Dave]

Not on our kart tracks. A Suzuki RG with std parts will fail if shown much over 13000. But clearly better parts will extend things considerably.

17? Heck that's well out of my experience but I built way too conservative. Blowdown for those revs would be hard to get close to ideal.

[Triplenut]

This is as close as I'll ever get to making a contribution to this amazing thread.
See below, may be of interest to two stroke fans in the mainland.
Not a bad two stroke engineer that Mike Sinclair .......

[Pursang]

anybody looking for a cheap DIY programable ignition ?

I searched the entire net (in english) for one I could understand/built/program myself, but no luck finding one that ticked all the boxes.
until I once searched in french, and bingo

all that is needed are :
arduino nano
ibgt
hall sensor

and if you use an arduino clone, a voltage regulator.

depending on the Hall-sensor you use, can be made for under 20 euro, easy to built and easy to program
the 1GT101DC is quite expensive, but I found one that is almost identical and works, for about half the price : http://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/elec...asheet.pdf.pdf

mine worked in a testing setup today

softare (arduino file) is ready, just copy-paste. there are 4 parameters to enter (dwell-type, hall-sensor type, ° of sensor compared to TDC and nr of cylinders)
then there are 2 lines one for rpm and one for the corresponding ° of advance. one can have infinite setup-points. just change the points, plug-in the usb cable and in less than a minute you have a new curve in the box

if anybody needs help with hte french, just ask

That is a neat, simple, bit of gear, and by the look of it, very effective.
(And, more importantly, within my technical capabilities).

Pity I bailed on French in 8th grade. Je ne peux pas lire le français pour les noix.

Help with the translation would be appreciated.

Cheers, Daryl.

[oldjohnno]

anybody looking for a cheap DIY programable ignition ?

I searched the entire net (in english) for one I could understand/built/program myself, but no luck finding one that ticked all the boxes.
until I once searched in french, and bingo

all that is needed are :
arduino nano
ibgt
hall sensor

and if you use an arduino clone, a voltage regulator.

http://a110a.free.fr/SPIP172/article...id_article=142

That's interesting, though it's worth noting that it's an inductive ignition, not a CD. I've never found an inductive system that will pass my crude ignition performance test ie. the ability to consistently fire a surface gap plug.

But I still think this programmable circuit could be very useful when used as a trigger for an automotive CDI box, thus combining a tunable advance curve with a very high energy ignition output. I've been using automotive boxes (eg Mallory 6864M) on bikes for the last couple of years and they'll happily fire a surface gap plug that's been dipped in the grease bucket but they generally rely on external timing control.

Most automotive CDIs provide multiple sparks to around 3000rpm with a 4 stroke V8, or around 12000rpm with a 2 stroke single. The multiple sparks sound like a squeak rather than a crack when the plug fires, and I noticed that I could hear this happening when I triggered a spark even when the plug was screwed into the head.

I never thought much about the noise until I came across this on another forum:

About 25 years ago I noticed the cars with the spectacular nitrous eruptions, scoops in low earth orbit, etc. had canister coils, mostly the Blaster 2. The cars with HEI coil-in-cap systems didn’t have the problem. This is with CD boxes driving the coils in all cases. Even stock HEI systems had fewer problems than CD with the can coils.

For $hits and giggles I compared several coils with a dB meter by using a plastic tube with the meter at one end and various plug gaps at the other, using a 6A box triggered by an MSD tester. The loudest was the big HVC coil, the second was the cheap $16 Tru-Tech, which oddly enough was louder than the high-dollar version of the same application. Canister coils are bunk and the worst was the little tiny HVC coils.

While doing this I also looked at the wave forms with an oscilloscope and the E core coils have longer arc duration.

Applied rocket science suggests the spark with the most energy will make the loudest sound.

The HEI type coil has a much larger core, the “E” core”, around the bobbin than a canister type coil. The core stores and transfers magnetic energy from the primary to the secondary winding so it’s no surprise the coil with the most material in the core has the most energy in the spark. Who would have thought?

I think this method of assessing spark output might actually have some merit. Looking at the spark doesn't tell you anything and scope traces are subject to interpretation. But I've found that the systems that will happily fire a surface gap plug swimming in methanol and oil (and even some water if I haven't purged the engine properly ) also make the most noise. The best coil I've found is the big FD478 Ford coil, which is also commonly sold (with a fancy anodized housing and a higher price) as a "performance" coil by Crane and others.

[OopsClunkThud]

I built an arduino based time-speed-distance display that used a hall sensor on the front wheel. Didn't think the arduino would be fast enough to keep up with the crank.

I see several floats in the code. I had to go to some length to keep floats out of any calculation done within the interrupt and in the end changed most decimals to fixed point to keep the cycles down.

[diesel62]

I built an arduino based time-speed-distance display that used a hall sensor on the front wheel. Didn't think the arduino would be fast enough to keep up with the crank.

I see several floats in the code. I had to go to some length to keep floats out of any calculation done within the interrupt and in the end changed most decimals to fixed point to keep the cycles down.

How about this. https://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/Overview

Sent from my SM-P555 using Tapatalk

[JanBros]

Help with the translation would be appreciated.

Cheers, Daryl.

what do you wanna know ? just the basics to get it working or every tiny little detail (my french ain't perfect neither) .

is there a better topic (one about ignitions for exapmle) to discuss this, as I only come to Kiwi-biker for the ESE topic ?