TZ, how are you controling the powervalve? The NSR cylinder only offers PV leakage for blowdown which isn't a good thing. If you can set PV to 50% closed, then fully open... I think that would be a worthwhile test on your mod cylinder.
Thank you Frits. The exhaust opens 84* ATDC so not that. The ignition starts at 30* and drops to 14* by 11,000, so probably not that. I've tried several mufflers, all brand new and the same type that make my 90 very quiet.
Compression IS low at 12.5, so maybe that's it?
I must say that possible cause was a surprise to me. Can you please elaborate a little?
You said it, Teriks. And that stronger exhaust pulse is the main reason that I am fond of low compression ratios.
We are using even lower ratios in some successful engines. These do sound healthy, but I can't say they produce much more noise than the competition....
Is it possible the end cone restriction could be too small and cause the lack of over rev?
When: running on alcohol fuel (E85) and pipe is designed for example 13,000rpm peak hp and the engine now produces the peak hp @ 14,500rpm.
In my case.. it probably is not the problem, or will never be the problem. (last ignition timing change @ 13,000rpm, ducati am6/derbi cdi unit, max. rpm only 15,500 now and peak hp as said above; at 14,500rpm currently on new pipe)
Just interested if 'too small' end cone restriction could cause lack of over rev.
@F5 Dave - e.g rotax 453 cylinder (used in sleds, like ski-doo mxz 440) has typical 'rotax -like' boyesen ports. Same thing at 122/123 cylinders (found in aprilia rs/sx/mx 125).Erm, no the case looks neater to flow. And if done right less section change with large reed.
They are aimed straight (to A/B duct divider), instead of to crankcase like most (if not all) japanese 2-stroke cylinders have (like YZ 250).
I've had an opinion, the boyesen ports should be aimed to crankcase, because then the B ducts can be then made better shaped.
But I have no much experience of these cylinder reed engines , and don't really like them much and atleast on my knowledge and skills it is not even close as powerful as case reed engine (or have the potential).
Has anyone found a reasonable priced supplier of blank cylinder sleeves since Akunar ...? only ive just buggerd up my £125.00 bespoke liner which took 5 weeks to be produced and then of course in my excitement 10mins to knacker , even though i spent all day making a jig for holding it on my lathe, marking it up and buying a slot drill to cut the ports with. still never mind aye...practise makes perfect.![]()
I have some experience with engines of this size
52 x 48.95 stroke. 117/118/119 tranfers. 82 ex 85 subs.
32mm carb 790 pipe. 1.34 case comp . Case reed
104cc. Or it's called a KTM 105. 34.8 hp. Cyinderis terrible from ktm
Tookabout 4 years on and off trying things. Pipe big help
29.5 carb goes 34.2hp on same numbers. But different cyinder.
So I not sure if it's the carb. Or just maybe my cyinder litte better on that particular one. Balanced sta in sim 40hp worth. With low tranfers.
Sometimes I fix Stroker Engines for guys..Aka more transfer and
110-112 cc and I am where you are at. 31-32hp or so.
20hp at 9000 is common on 30-35hp. 100cc engines.
I still need more r&d time on those. Really the bigger Engines should make more at 9000 with correctly timed pv. Correct pipes (my biggest issue. That and pv seems to be my biggest issue on the strokers
I have posted on here in the past. But I have a Eng Dyno.
It's turned down now in these charts, to match most rear wheel hp dynos. So it's legit.
Hello. It's me again, last time it was because of 2000€ part's to trash in a running in, never stopped reading the forum, would worth to start another read all over again
Some questions I would like to have clearer ideas.
At which rpm should a rider change gears in a tuned Honda RS 125, say making peak at 12,7 to 13k rpm, isn't it a lost of time to let the bike overrev to 14k or more in low gears?
Been doing some exhaust's like this (attached pic), no exhaust flange, but the oval to round transition in 3mm sheet plate and 1mm roled sheet, then 0,8mm mild steel going along the header, I question myself if this would not loose power against a well made aluminium spignot due to heating more the end gases....
Is there any dyno somewhere comparing carb sizes in a strong 125? like comparing change from 38 to 41? is it really needed to achieve the holy grail of 50cv on a 54x54,5?
Sorry for my faulty english
cheers
Google John Tice
give me a minute
http://www.smallenginemachineworks.c...inder_services
http://forums.everything2stroke.com/...round-the-Shop
http://www.everything2stroke.com/con...u-need-to-know
if your project is intesrting enough he will do a deal on doing it all
he used to make his own sleves and shows the process of casting them,
http://forums.everything2stroke.com/...the-Shop/page9
from memory he gets most of them from LA sleeve but he mentioned somewhere elese he calls N.W?
Northwest Sleeve Co.
https://www.manta.com/c/mmsq7lz/northwest-sleeve-inc
http://forums.everything2stroke.com/...the-Shop/page3
Bert Munro used to old gas pipe that was spun cast.
but i believe he once used a cast iron down pipe from a motel near Bonneville (not sure if that was in the movie or the book)
![]()
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Romeau, what you are showing will never work.
The whole idea is to reduce the duct volume, so to have a round duct, that then reduces is backwards thinking.
The best RS125 cylinder I have tested had a 32 by 41mm oval shape at the cylinder duct exit.
This then transitioned from that oval to a 41mm header entry.
38mm is plenty for any RS125 cylinder,as I can get 48.8 Hp ( sprocket ) from a TM with a 30mm carb.
The very best RS125 dyno I have seen was 47 HP - rear wheel, this being a PV factory setup as used by Itoh.
That had a stock 38mm SPJ carb, and that translates to close to 50 Hp sprocket.
The reeds in a RS125 are nowhere near as clever as those we use in the TM kart engine,I suggest you start looking there.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
If its any consolation Breezy I did the exact same thing the other day, making a sleeve for a six cylinder outboard engine, spent all day making it then put a hole in the wrong place!! Outboard engines are shit anyway so who cares, well I did because I had to pay for a new piece of cast iron and remake it, all on my bill. Said some bad words I did.
I am not sure if you or if I understud. the pipe has in it self a oval to round transition, in this case from this cylinder 40,5x34mm and includes the lenght of the spignot, so theres is no more volume there then with oval to round spignot. The ideia is to have virtually the same dimensions, I was thinking if cooling at the spignot has a role to play and I remember a little some post about that.
About the overrev and gear shift, any ideia?
idealy, you shift each gear at different rpm's, as the ideal point to shift gears largely depends on the drop in rev's and those drop's change from gear to gear.
basicly you need a dyno to determine the ideal shift rpm's.
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