Hi there,
is there a way for measuring crankcase volume without drilling the piston crown?
Yes I can see how wave superposition can create a localized high pressure spot although I would expect the node to move with frequency as the RPM dropped. I will look for that next time.
Yes, that is how I read it too.
The closed throttle no flow pressure was higher than atmospheric and dropped to atmospheric when the throttle was opened again. Your venturie idea is interesting.
Pressure node and venturie effect could explain it.......
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I was thinking about the airbox blown to smithereens and wonder if squirting ether as close as possible to the combustion chamber is the best way. I wasn't about to take the engine apart to make a injection port in the head but right or wrong I decided to put a nipple on the front side of the carb slide. hopefully it doesn't blow my reeds out. I may try petrol first and see if that works as a good starting aid. if not, then ether it is. I put the hose free end where its easily accessible and can be bent upward when the starting aid is squirted in. the hose end is then pluged with a rubber cork. best of all is no body panel removal needed. ill report back how it works. im hoping to try it out tomorrow since last weekend was a failure
something strange today that had me wondering. I had to use ether to start the lawnmower so I squirted it in the airfilter area. after a few pulls of the starting rope a small backfire explosion happened then it started![]()
700 twin start up, first time with the power valve. No prop and rev limited to 7500.
Ignitech runs the R1 servo nicely, starts opening at 3500 finished at 5500.
https://youtu.be/8IA3Xth6jXc
Ah, the lovely sound of a 180°-firing twin. Takes me back to my RD350-years. I'd really love to see that engine in a bike frame Neil. Reed valves will do fine (KISS, remember?) It will keep the width within limits and we won't be needing the last bit of power for a roadgoing bike. The power your engine is capable of right now, will be quite sufficient.
Just killed a whole week of free afterwork hours doing a new flange and exhaust for the NSR...
Results, not sure, need a dyno
Oval to round transition, thick flange with some cooling fins, not sure if the best way has I have seen the flanges from honda kits are much thinner and polished.
Bike is sounding different.
Cheers
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