I stand corrected - looking at the previous photo yes i see it. there must be some serious surface speed there at full revs...
I stand corrected - looking at the previous photo yes i see it. there must be some serious surface speed there at full revs...
With an old Suzuki GP125 air cooled cylinder and basic hand tools, how good a port job could you expect.
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A drill press worked pretty well at hogging out the B and C transfer ducts. The B port windows were widened and the C port opened up.
Suzuki GP125
27 rwhp for Inlet 140/80 Trans 114 Ex 80 and 70% NF4 pipe.
30 rwhp for Inlet 140/80 Trans 114 Ex 78.5 and 75% NF4 pipe.
NSR MC21 in all its lovelyness.
Suzuki GP fitted with a NSR MC21 Cylinder
28 rwhp for Inlet 140/80 Trans 114 Ex 80 std shape NX4 pipe.
30 rwhp for Inlet 140/80 Trans 114 Ex port roof leveled off NX4 pipe.
Not startlingly different for all its factory lovelyness.
Good old hand porting work compares Ok to the Honda factorys performance sports cylinder.
Just saying, you don't need a lot of flash stuff to get a good enough result .....
That's still state of the art - except the silver plating. The radial clearance of the centre disc in the crankcase can be quite liberal; sealing does not depend on it,
but on the clearance of the stationary 'piston ring' in the disc's groove. And that ring settles itself in the crankcase so that it's not pushed left and right anymore.
Wear is not a problem, as the pressure acting on the ring is less than 1% of the pressure acting on a 'real' piston ring, and the local temperature is modest as well.
Here's another picture of the JBB crankshaft.
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Thanks you guys for valuable comments. I did some computer modeling and realyze that classical V "common finger" good enough and my idea of 90 degree pin offset require more bearing supports on shaft. Smaller torque variation not enough reason then.
Anyone know if intermediate part of jbb crank were one solid part or welding (press fit) of finger and disk?
Finally I am going to make 140cc V with 9500 rpm on max power which should weight below 3000 grammes including fuel injection.
It will be rather long ~4 month project. I think if I will make crancase precisiously then will dont need sealing ring on crankshaft.
https://i.imgur.com/9RprD0t.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/n36caso.jpg
What kind of exhaust system?
If the pots are powerfull enough You probably do not need to divide the crankcase volume.
Probably a very slight gap allowing communication between the (half) chambers wouldn't be a disaster in this case. but then what about the cylinders (axially) overlapping, what sort of arrangement is used to overcome that?
I understand that it all is well proven of course, but was just curious as to how it all works.
Update: Sorry I missed what came after my earlier question about the disc and when I've had my breakfast I'll read it all up!
Ok, so it seems to me that in effect it is really a labyrinth seal with maybe a little touching now and then.
I have heard that if the crankcase cavity is left undivided, (ie with 'V' cylinder arrangement) that the flow into the the lagging cylinder is always compromised - is this true? and of course there is the inevitable loss of pumping pressure for the second cylinder, but some people do seem to believe that this is irrelavent these days!
If I'm wrong, please say so - don't hold back! (it may improve my learning)![]()
Strokers Galore!
couple years ago i had cr500 with nearly those same timings that was used for racing on sand hills and it had a problem falling off the powerband unless shifted perfect and even then it was a bugger. maybe the pipe or something else was wrong. then again sand can be like riding with the brakes applied. ported a new cylinder with lower timings which worked far better for that kind of racing
Riding in sand requires a broad powerband and a close-ratio gearbox because the rpm-drops during upshifts are far greater than you would expect from just looking at the gear ratios.
With a spinning rear wheel your crankshaft may be doing 8000 rpm but your riding speed may only correspond to 4000 rpm.
During an upshift the spinning stops and after the upshift your crankshaft rpm wil have dropped well below 4000 rpm, where no-one is home, power-wise.
MX-practice is to grab the clutch and send enough torque to the rear wheel to get it spinning again. MX-sidecars with 800cc two-stroke singles are the worst:
some riders cover the whole track in third gear.
3Kg will be possible.Close at least
http://www.agm-engine.co.uk/agm6060c...ler-p-325.html
And spare parts list
http://www.dle-engines.com/dleg0060.html
I will try and sketch a V-2 crankshaft plus bearing system using these parts.I have quite some already and they are cheap.
Are there any classes for racing where a twincylinder two stroke is wellcome?
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