When it comes to gas dynamics and thermodynamics, I tend to treat any twin as two singles; in my experience all gas exchange processes in a twin are identical to those in a single. Engines with 1-in-2 inlet systems (Trabant) and 2-in-1 exhaust systems (BRP-Rotax) excluded of course.
![]()
![]()
By the way: that Rotax engine could be shoehorned into a Trabant without much effort. Imagine standing at the traffic lights with your little two-stroke car merrily bubbling away, nobody having a clue that instead of 26 HP you now have 165 HP under your right foot.
Excellent lecture from Clint Gray, combining theoretical knowledge and practical thinking. I especially like the simple asymmetrical signal spacing.
Here is some more injection lecture for the Christmas holidays:
EDIT: uploading failed because the file is too big (2793 kB). You might try to find it yourself on the internet.
Search for WO2016193902A2 : Internal combustion engine having two fuel injectors per cylinder and control method therefor.
'It' has been done....
http://teknikensvarld.se/provkorning...rt-800-173151/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxTG1tCMAtc
Still not fast thou![]()
I had my suspicion that it is the case.
When you have gone too far and standing on idle and not coming from it feel so close yet so far away. My hope is, however, that cylinder "A" will be a little more forgiving then cylinder "B" probably will be.
Rotax engine in a Trabant that would be awesome. Have seen videos on smart cars with Hayabusa engines.![]()
I believe this is the same patent.
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20170159598.pdf
Update on my thing:
-I'm overdriving the piezo transducer, they're rated at 15V AC, I'm seeing an output of 50V. The signal diminishes over time, quickly at first, then it settles. Could market it as 'self calibrating', but the better option would be to use a smaller disk to reduce the output.
-The signal to noise ratio is still not that great, and I'm hampered by being fixed to 1 value where the fuel table switch occurs. The ideal switch value varies by RPM.
-I have found that the pipe effect on overall air flow is greater when the throttle is more closed, it's about 2.5x 8000rpm 100% throttle, and about 4x at 0% throttle (by extrapolation). I guess the pipe is providing a bit more intake vacuum, overcoming some of the throttle restriction.
-Richening the air fuel ratio to approx 14.4:1 from 15:1 has stopped the unwanted ARC/HCCI operation at light throttle.
-The next trial will be to use a differential pressure sensor between the intake and the crankcase. I've previously found crankcase vacuum increases with pipe effect, but it's relative to the total pressure in the system, which is influenced by atmospheric pressure and throttle restriction. Accounting for both with differential pressure might give me a usable signal. KTM must be doing something like this, since they are measuring crankcase vacuum.
I see your water cooled exhaust spigot And raise you.
An ethanol cooled exhaust flange
Athough it wasn't to cool the exhaust, It was to heat the ethanol. Wrong, don't need to do That.
It did heat the tank up, using the original mechanical injection system I used on the Kawasaki, with a circiting mechanical fuel pump.
Neil I do love your inquisitive mind.
Wish I could get enough sleep to achieve 1/4 what you do.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
.
Modified 1978 Suzuki GP100, water cooled, 6 speed, dry sump gearbox, 8 plate clutch and fuel injected. Target is 32 rwhp at 12250 rpm.
The next step in the EFI saga is to detect with a piezoelectric sensor any in cylinder pressure just before exhaust port opening to see if the motor has fired or not.
It was suggested to me that to get a good reading all I would need is a 0.75mm hole in the cylinder wall.
The cylinder casting is very precise, no wasted metal anywhere so it is quite a challenge to find somewhere to drill through without breaking out into the water jacket. It wouldn't do having combustion gases escaping into the cooling water, it would boil up in no time.
I managed to drill a clean 1.53mm hole through the cylinder with no break outs into the water jacket or cylinder head stud hole and the drilled hole came out just above the exhaust port. 1.53 and 1.55mm drills are much easier to work with than a 0.75mm one.
I made this quill with a 1.55 OD, 0.75mm ID tube and to be doubly safe the hole in the cylinder is drilled size for size with the last 5mm of the quill a 0.02mm interference fit in the cylinder wall so the quill is completely sealed in the cylinder at both ends. The quill was a grantee against breaking into the water jacket or a thin or porous patch of casting.
I was finding it challenging figuring out how to get a 0.75mm hole through the cylinder wall that would be reliably leak proof, and I am pretty happy with the way this has worked out.
I 4 corner seized it. Pretty certain I overheated it which is unsurprising. 26 degrees by 9am, 32 degrees in the shade mid day. Undermaintained cooling system and no temp gauge
Thanks team. Pretty bloody achy still but progressing well. Should be all good and have medical clearance for the nationals. I'm so hyped. I keep waking up at odd hours with racing and bike setup on the mind.
You're soooo right Dave. I stuffed up not being proactive with setup.
So many laughs in the pits. "Is that REALLY a 50?!" Can't wait man.
Next racing I'll be doing is round 1 of the nationals, first weekend of Jan at Ruapuna. We'll have a massive field of 125s with our our grid this year and some really solid competition. Come say hey if you're around.
I had about 3 of those Daytona ones. All failed pretty quickly so gave up as it was always pretty stable. . . At least on the last RG engine.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
My metal un printer at work. This is the real valve cover, the other was just a ' test cut'
There are currently 22 users browsing this thread. (1 members and 21 guests)
Bookmarks