ESE's works engine tuner

**TZ350** · 22nd December 2017, 03:17

Originally Posted by varthrix

Hello everybody, I was going to refrain from posting until I had read the whole thread, but I'm only about 700 pages in and I have a question. Tee Zee, I saw the post about moving the ring positioning peg and that it went wrong, if you were going to do it again what approach would you pick to do it?

This thread is best read backwards, that way you get to the good stuff first. Page's 500, 1000 and 1500 are worth a visit.

And there are thousands of pictures you can look through if you use the thread tools.

What went wrong, poor workmanship and the retaining tip of stainless wire I used fractured from vibration.

If I was to try again I would use the Yamaha racing TZ approach of drilling down from the top and piano wire with the tip bent over in the hole. Piano wire wont fracture like the SS did.

Click image for larger version.

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Originally Posted by varthrix

I couldn’t find anything with the search function, but it's probably my fault. Greetings from Bulgaria.

Emess posted a very helpful tip for searching this or any other thread.

Originally Posted by emess

Rather than use the site search which usually fails, use Google so to search this site use an ordinary search phrase and after it add

site:www.kiwibiker.co.nz

Frits pisa site:www.kiwibiker.co.nz

the same will work for other sites with the appropriate site address

**wobbly** · 22nd December 2017, 07:11

I had the same problem with setting up the Ignitech static timing on an old Ducati.
What you need to do is using a straight edge,line up the center of the timing cover and the middle of the trigger pole, and make a mark on the
cover gasket face.
Then fit the cover, and transfer that mark onto the engine gasket face.
Again, using the straight edge, line up the rotor center and the new mark on the engine, this gives you the trigger position in relation to
the trailing edge of the lobe on the rotor ( with the piston at TDC ).
Measure the base timing angle using a protractor ,or trig, or using piston position height with the center line and lobe edge lined up.

**ief** · 22nd December 2017, 11:27

Hi all,

engmod question time again...

Turbulent mode, I still don't get it.

I start with a 'simple' cbd file, run it in engmod, get result (purple line) Put it in turbulent mode, run engmod and get a result, (black line) looks good, fine.

Write the new combustion file, load it in dat2t, set it on prescribed burn rate and... I get this result (green line)

And I can't figure out what is happening or why cause I a. don't understand what engmods magic is doing and b. what the chicken or the egg is in the differences I see (tubmax, delivery ratio etc.)

What am I missing?

**F5 Dave** · 22nd December 2017, 12:02

Thanks Wob, that makes good sense. With an asymmetric cover I'll lengthen the crank somehow to provide a tit I can engineers blue a centre point to mark on the inner cover.

Which means draining the oil again, oh well. A path ahead. Cheers.

**jfn2** · 22nd December 2017, 16:43

wobbly:
Thank you very much for the KTM 250 RR engmod file. But when I try to unpack it I'm getting a message that the engine file is incomplete and I get a bunch of error messages. I tried to unpack it again but no go. Could you resend it when you have the time? Thanks Jeff

**Vannik** · 22nd December 2017, 16:53

Jeff,
You need the latest version, I sent out update notification yesterday. If you did not get it let me know. The notification is via bulk email with links which gets blocked by some firewalls.
Vannik

**jbiplane** · 22nd December 2017, 21:51

Originally Posted by Muhr

If I go whit the left web it will give 23cc more and same weight/balance factor

BTW what is the best possible, but still easy to get material for disk valve? Me experienced in reeds, but 0 in disks.

**Frits Overmars** · 22nd December 2017, 22:40

Originally Posted by ief

Hi all, engmod question time again... Turbulent mode, I still don't get it. I start with a 'simple' cbd file, run it in engmod, get result (purple line) Put it in turbulent mode....

Hi Ief, those Engmod pics look rather familiar. You don't happen to be working on a Dutch 50cc twin, are you?

Originally Posted by jbiplane

what is the best possible, but still easy to get material for disk valve? Me experienced in reeds, but 0 in disks.

Carbon. It used to be hard to get, but nowadays you can simply order it: http://www.emot.nl/.

**dutchpower** · 22nd December 2017, 22:49

Yes Frits looks familiar

Change AV gas to regular

**Muhr** · 23rd December 2017, 00:02

Originally Posted by jbiplane

BTW what is the best possible, but still easy to get material for disk valve? Me experienced in reeds, but 0 in disks.

https://www.rockwestcomposites.com/p.../401-410-group

https://www.carbontech.com/

**ief** · 23rd December 2017, 02:15

Hmm, what gave it away?

Saw Dutch posted some numbers so figured I'd give it a go.

Regular, ok. Not related to what I experience I presume.

**jfn2** · 23rd December 2017, 03:12

Hello Neels:
No I did not get your update notification. I also tried to contact you using your form on your website but it doesn't seem to work. I am using Windows 10 if that helps you. Thank you very much.
e-mail is jneilan46@gmail.com