I actually think you are overthinking or overdeveloping, just make sure no air can be trapped and you´re good to go.
That´s what i have done in several carengines that i have tuned to about 1000hp, they have never shown any heatproblems even though materialthickness in heads were very thin after my portjob.
And they run closer to boiling and a lot hotter exhaustgasses, sometimes above 1000c, never been any problems.
But if air is trapped somewhere i have seen engineblocks crack due to steam shockwaves in those airpockets.
You also need to design waterpassages so the water flows evenly around every path.
This is often done with the headgasket.
If i look into my kawasaki cylinder, water inlet and outlet are on the same side of the barrel and head, rear against the carb.
Water goes into cylinder above the reedcase, then flows to the front, turns upwards through headgasket and flows rearwards in head to the outlet.
In gasket one can see it´s the same tech as in an car engine gasket.
It restricts flow at rear to control flow so it heads forwards in cylinder.
but,, it has holes in the rear to vent out airbubbles it there are any, just as in an carengine
So, lead flow to every path with some finesse, and you´re good.
No need to think of boundarylayer etc etc boiling.
To minimize that if you are afraid of it you can add some additive in your coolant to lower surfacetension, the water becomes 'wetter'.
It actually works fine with soap

But just a couple of drops if you don´t like suds

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