ESE's works engine tuner

[dutchpower]

Both NSR 110 and Apr.RSA zero download

[TZ350]

Hey Rob, last time I looked over 40 downloads of the GP-NSR110 file.
I am assuming that they must all have the new version of the code as no one has complained about not being able to open it ?

Ok ... I installed the latest EngMod2T (May) updates Neels had sent out and I also made sure the "un ziped pack file" went into the "C" drive "2Stroke" directory before I tried to unpack it with Dat2T.

It looks like the unpack option is going to work for me now, so will run a simulation.



Yep, that worked, thanks Wob.

Now to have a good look through it to understand what you did and how it improved my original simulation then figure out how to convert it to cut metal.

[JanBros]

Frits, you once wrote :

The total angle.area of the transfers divided by the total scavenged volume per cylinder (cubic capacity plus combustion volume) determines at which rpm the engine starts running out of breath. Revving it much higher does not make much sense

I bellieve it was on pitlane.

but I don't realy understand as mathematicaly this can't be true : the units are mm2 devided by mm3 ?

for the RSA : Tr A.A = 110315 , SV = 124.8, CCV = 8.6 110315/(124.8+8.6) = 828 ??

[RomeuPT]

Hello

http://www.underdogsracing.com/fospipe/

Seems not working. It is sometimes usefull for me to give a first insight.

Are there other links with the same thing?

Maybe it's time for me to build my calculator?

Cheers

[Frits Overmars]

Frits, you once wrote : ..... I bellieve it was on pitlane.
but I don't realy understand as mathematicaly this can't be true : the units are mm2 devided by mm3 ?
for the RSA : Tr A.A = 110315 , SV = 124.8, CCV = 8.6 110315/(124.8+8.6) = 828 ??

Jan, the unit for angle.area is not mm² but °mm². It's all in the name: angle, multiplied by area. And if you take rpm into consideration, the angle.area becomes a time.area.
Below is that part of Pit-Lane once more, plus another couple of links. There is more to be found on the subject; you'll just have to find the time to search for it .

http://www.pit-lane.biz/t3173p543-gp...-part-2-locked

http://www.pit-lane.biz/t4072p578-gp...-part-3-locked

[JanBros]

I know where it comes from Frits, I copy all interesting stuff people like you say into files like "cylinders" , "Heads" or "Pipes". that's where I copied it from

So I guess now it was just a reverse of the STA formula ? I thought you were pointing to a way of knowing the max (over)rev before power would drop significantly, but ofcourse the torque drops anyway after it has reached it's max. must ....read ... better ...

[JanBros]

Hello

http://www.underdogsracing.com/fospipe/

Seems not working. It is sometimes usefull for me to give a first insight.

Are there other links with the same thing?

Maybe it's time for me to build my calculator?

Cheers

or you can use mine : http://users.telenet.be/jannemie/FOS...E%20black.xlsm

[RomeuPT]

or you can use mine : http://users.telenet.be/jannemie/FOS...E%20black.xlsm

Great. I kinda remebered that there was an alternative somewhere.

Many Thanks dude

[karter444]

Stingers on a KZ are a real can of worms, so much so that I use two different versions depending upon the track.
But in any case the shorter you make the U bend the better the power.

There is a rule for a MAX of 50mm of stinger sticking into the mufflers much bigger perforated inner.
Cut off the welded on washer, and move it back right to the very start of the bend.
Then cut off the tube at 25mm from the washer face - this is the same length as the slip on length inside the muffler.
On the other end that slips into the pipe spigot - again cut it off as short as you can to allow it to just slip in all the way.

As far as ID goes I use a genuine TM 28/28 OD tube with an insert pressed into the pipe slip fit end.This is 22.8 ID and 20mm long with 45* chamfers at each end.
The chamfer on the pipe side matches the 24.4 ID of the rear cone,and the other end simply matches the 26 ID of the tube.
This U bend is for tracks that favor higher rpm or in fact need a shit load of overev to allow deleting gearchanges between corners.
There is only a very small loss below peak , when run against a stock 26/28 TM tube.

For tracks needing more bottom end I use the TM 28/26 stepped stinger , just cut short as above , or if you can get them the 28/28 tubes made by ELTO with 1.5mm wall.
With this smaller ID tube I use a 24mm ID insert - this makes a little better top end,with the same bottom.

thanks Wobbly for all the info saves a whole lot of testing when someone else has done the hard yards
cheers Richard

[F5 Dave]

And a lot of stuff you wouldn't have thought worth testing.

[F5 Dave]

Friday night musical interlude.

When Kate starts singing you realise she was wasted with that other band.

[peewee]

hey guys maybe one of you clever buggers can say what you think of my idea to allow more fuel to pass through this float valve. ive drilled it out to 3.6mm which is about as big as it can be and still allow to needle to plug the hole. If the fuel has to go through a 3.6mm diam hole that is 2.75 long, what if I grinded it like a funnel so the fuel only has to pass through a 3.6mm hole for say .5mm. does this sound like it could let more fuel through ? I would just try it and see but maybe someone has already tried it and knows the answer. first photo is how it is now. second photo is my idea what I could do

[F5 Dave]

If you want to pass an actual gas through there then the idea has merit. Petrol however isn't so compressible.

[wobbly]

Peewee, both Keihin and Dellorto and Amal make float valves withe 4.2 and or 4.5 hole size.
Might be easyer to adapt one with no mods.
I have tried drilling / reaming them before, and could not get them to ever seal again.

[husaberg]

hey guys maybe one of you clever buggers can say what you think of my idea to allow more fuel to pass through this float valve. ive drilled it out to 3.6mm which is about as big as it can be and still allow to needle to plug the hole. If the fuel has to go through a 3.6mm diam hole that is 2.75 long, what if I grinded it like a funnel so the fuel only has to pass through a 3.6mm hole for say .5mm. does this sound like it could let more fuel through ? I would just try it and see but maybe someone has already tried it and knows the answer. first photo is how it is now. second photo is my idea what I could do

Peewee, both Keihin and Dellorto and Amal make float valves withe 4.2 and or 4.5 hole size.
Might be easyer to adapt one with no mods.
I have tried drilling / reaming them before, and could not get them to ever seal again.

What about using a kart diaphragm/pulse pump and leaving the float valve as close to STD.

PS I would be checking the flow rate out of the tank as well.
http://www.mikunioz.com/shop/df62-70...h-dual-outlet/