ESE's works engine tuner

[wobbly]

Dutch, what you are seeing is the wave action Mach number as it exits the stinger.
The wave enters the pipe at EPO , then with a finite velocity thru the hot gas it takes until around BDC for that front to be detected at the outlet.
I must say I have never looked at that particular trace before , as I cant see it as any use to designing an optimized pipe .
So I concentrate on the Mach in the cylinder duct exit area , and the Mach in the middle of the stinger venturi.
As you can see if you plot this against Mach number , the wave action in the stinger has alot of energy and the reflections off atm bounce up and down its length with a frequency dependent upon
this length.
But with a proper nozzle , using a sharp angled step into the stinger tube , the wave action amplitude is reduced when it returns - and thus lessens the interference with the main reflection wave inside the rear cone.

[tdc211]

Thank's for the tip. I will first do the welding I can on the cylinders. Have I understood it right that you actually tested to put something like an extra divider?

not sure why you want try a extra divider here, I was talking on A port front hook angle.
I tried A port in many different widths and tried many front to rear hook angles.
problem I see for most is trying to grind in enough rear angle. That is, if your cylinder is lacking here. Like mine was .
I highly doubt its worth the time to test a divider here.
But I bet its worth the time to test the rear direction on the front A port hook.
as Jan said somewhere, this is maybe the touchest spot in the cylinder.

[Lightbulb]

Thanks to Wobbly, the 75% rule he does totally transformed an engine I was working on in 04. We took it from 3.25hp aprox, to 4.3 hp aprox with the exhaust insert and a new pipe. Without the insert with the 25% area reduction, it did not work very well at all, and could only run other pipes that limited the power output to the 3.25 hp range.
I learnt a lot from those tests. Thanks again Wobbly.

[TZ350]

I was talking on A port front hook angle. I tried A port in many different widths and tried many front to rear hook angles. problem I see for most is trying to grind in enough rear angle. That is, if your cylinder is lacking here. Like mine was. But I bet its worth the time to test the rear direction on the front A port hook. as Jan said somewhere, this is maybe the touchiest spot in the cylinder.

Is this the angle you mean?

[peewee]

Looks like more oil = more power.

Ok, not a test as such, but by using the Google "Site:" Search option. oil power site:https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...-engine-tuner?

I got these results.

Attachment 338411

I was thinking more about how the oil may affect the combustion process, rather than sealing the rings. with methanol or nitro, where so much of the fuel in the cylinder is likely still liquid , atleast initially. I think some how the liquid would need to be converted to vapor to be combusted. would the high oil content retard this process ?? ill probly never know for sure since I don't have the meens to investigate it with any certainty.

but im going to try something different tomorrow and see if theres any noticeable difference in the butt dyno.

until now I had always been using this mix totaling about 1gal

nitro 30% - 38.5oz
oil 16% - 20.5oz
methanol 54% - 69oz

ive mixed this new stuff to try tomorrow

nitro 31% - 40oz
oil 12% - 16oz
methanol 57% - 73oz

before i added oil I checked the mix with hydrometer and its pretty close to the same density (34% at 85F ) as the previous mix I had been using, which is what I was shooting for. the difference now is each intake cycle I should have a bit more volume of nitro and methanol enter the cylinder, at the expense of less oil of course. lets assume there is a slight loss of power from less oil / less viscous mix. im thinking the extra nitro and meth would make up that lost power and add add alittle more. i think its worth a shot to see anyways. maybe the difference will be to small to tell


about the hook ports. it seems like they wouldn't be very effective. if possible maybe try to put a radiused side wall instead. like this vinamold from a standard ktm barell

[jonny quest]

Husaberg and Katinas are good at this... engine pics of the early NS500 and NSR500. apparently they were rotary valve. Curious where Honda put the rotary valves.

[husaberg]

Husaberg and Katinas are good at this... engine pics of the early NS500 and NSR500. apparently they were rotary valve. Curious where Honda put the rotary valves.

No rotary valves on the NS or NSR500 that i have ever seen
The NS was cylinder reed and the NSR was Case reed
Honda did do a single with rear mounted rotary valves though.
Honda being honda may have tried discs on some prototype bikes but were committed to using reeds.
I actually thought there way have been a rc125m twin version with discs as well as a single 250
Yamaha did do a Disc valve V four.

If kenny had stuck with the older but reliable side disk mounted 4 he might have won.
That year on a old design square 4 using old parts Crosby finished second to Kennys Fourth.
According to legend is was hated by Yamaha and the then lead designed asked to be present when they were crushed at the end of the season.

[lodgernz]

I suspect nobody here has ever seen one of these:

http://japan.webike.net/moto_news/ph...paign=20180818

[F5 Dave]

I'd seen the Yamaha proto but that's a new one on me. Kewl!

[husaberg]

I suspect nobody here has ever seen one of these:

http://japan.webike.net/moto_news/ph...paign=20180818

I'd seen the Yamaha proto but that's a new one on me. Kewl!

I have posted it before in oddballs there was a race version it wasn't a true square four. it was Trapezoid
I will post the race version later


Edit well it was old race multis thread
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1130655389

Edit again it was both the multis and the oddballs threads Grump posted a pic as well
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1130991542

Edit again i have actually had an album dedicated to it
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/a...p?albumid=5045

[husaberg]

[TZ350]

if possible maybe try to put a radiused side wall instead. like this vinamold from a standard ktm barell

Thanks for the heads up, I wasn't sure what tdc211 meant before about "A port front hook angle" it looks like the Honda cylinders, MC21 and NF4 et all already have them.

[Norman]

not sure why you want try a extra divider here, I was talking on A port front hook angle.
I tried A port in many different widths and tried many front to rear hook angles.
problem I see for most is trying to grind in enough rear angle. That is, if your cylinder is lacking here. Like mine was .
I highly doubt its worth the time to test a divider here.
But I bet its worth the time to test the rear direction on the front A port hook.
as Jan said somewhere, this is maybe the touchest spot in the cylinder.

If a good rear angle (which I think I can do) on the A-port would fix the short cut to a low level, then no, why should I put in an extra divider. If not, my thought was that it would help the directional flow stability out from the A-port, particulary the section closest to the exhaust port, such that the flow would have more difficult to make a U-turn. A thin plate ending a mm into the port should not decrease the flow area. But maybe a good rear angle and enough material in the cylinder wall section in front of the A-port, towards the exhaust, eliminates the problem to a level where there is no real justification to try to do anything else.

[TZ350]

A thin plate ending a mm into the port should not decrease the flow area. But maybe a good rear angle and enough material in the cylinder wall section in front of the A-port, towards the exhaust, eliminates the problem to a level where there is no real justification to try to do anything else.

Yes I understand properly now. Thanks.

[jasonu]

I suspect nobody here has ever seen one of these:

http://japan.webike.net/moto_news/ph...paign=20180818

Shame they didn't make a water cooled H2.