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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #30451
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    20th June 2012 - 00:17
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    Tell me what you guys use when your spacing a cylinder up. Im looking for the right material . I was thinking plastic but what sort.

  2. #30452
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    So the KTM has an ignition curve with only one thing remotely "right ".
    About 15* at peak power.
    Throw in a bunch of advance below 11,000 and juggle that with the PV full open point and suddenly mid range power will appear from nowhere.
    Then correct the idiotic Aux port stagger issue and a huge mid increase is available.
    This may need the main lifting a little as part of the " fix "to increase the peak and overev capability , but for sure the torque hole will be gone.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  3. #30453
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by wax View Post
    Tell me what you guys use when your spacing a cylinder up. Im looking for the right material . I was thinking plastic but what sort.
    Alloy plate.

  4. #30454
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    20th June 2012 - 00:17
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    Thanks Im only going up 2mm and so it makes it a little tricky to make. I have a laser cutter so i can cut plastic if i want. I was looking for a good plastic to use

  5. #30455
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by wax View Post
    Thanks Im only going up 2mm and so it makes it a little tricky to make. I have a laser cutter so i can cut plastic if i want. I was looking for a good plastic to use
    1.6mm alloy spacer plus .4mm gasket with original gasket on other side.
    I have one here i made with a drill and a dremill.
    drill plenty of holes thus there is then no need to use snips that might bend the sheet.



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  6. #30456
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    20th April 2011 - 08:45
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    Quote Originally Posted by wax View Post
    Tell me what you guys use when your spacing a cylinder up. Im looking for the right material . I was thinking plastic but what sort.
    Base gaskets must be rigid; the cylinder ears will break off if not sufficiently supported. KTM, Kawasaki and Honda cylinder ears are notoriously vulnerable.
    Using 1 mm of paper gaskets is already asking for trouble if you do not use a torque wrench.
    If you're thinking of using 2 mm plastic here, you can save yourself some elbow grease by binning the cylinder right away.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #30457
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    22nd September 2012 - 16:31
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    1995 kx 125
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    usa
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutchpower View Post
    Here ign. curve KTM 125 '18
    Was that checked with a light?
    My 16 ign curve nothing like that
    150 cdi has more ign than a 125. at thats not even close to 15

  8. #30458
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    6th February 2016 - 06:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    NO - adding area to the lower part of the Ex port ( below TPO ) will not increase power anywhere , so is not a " design " element I would use for kart/GP or anything for that matter.
    As I said we have been trying for years to reduce the duct volume , at the port end area , as well as using my nozzle idea at the exit face end.
    BUT , reducing the lower area further only works effectively IF you have already sufficient Blowdown , matched to the power you are looking for.

    If you are not going to be going into pipe changes, then there is alot to be had tuning the powervalve and ignition curves.
    So if you are really serious about this , then an Ignitech driving a cable connected servo on the PV is the go , and of course the ignition can then be tailored specifically to whatever mods you do.
    Sorry, I didnt mean take away from the lower portion of the port. I was going leave the main port alone, but maybe increase the Aux port width...they seem pretty small in comparison, but maybe they dont need to be that big.

    But now after reading your other response, fudging the main port higher would possibly be a better solution. In this situation, would radiusing the upper portion of the port be beneficial, or just taking it up a bit would be better?

    Will look into Ignitech, thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails KTM-125 ports.pdf  

  9. #30459
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    6th February 2016 - 06:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by dutchpower View Post
    Here ign. curve KTM 125 '18
    Thanks for this!

  10. #30460
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    7th October 2015 - 07:49
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    honda ns 400
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    Quote Originally Posted by wax View Post
    Tell me what you guys use when your spacing a cylinder up. Im looking for the right material . I was thinking plastic but what sort.
    Fiberglass plate with thin cooper layers, from electronic stuff. I use 1.5mm with " Wurth engine and housing sealing compound DP 300", for quick testing it works immediately, no leakage, no cracking. This year for testing I use four tube.
    Like Frits write, stay away, if possible, from soft gasket as they always deform "ears" type cylinder. But if cylinder and head bolted to crankcase with same studs/bolts, maybe soft gasket is ok.

  11. #30461
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    27th October 2013 - 08:53
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    for cyl spacers, why not just use 6061 plate with klingersil homemade gaskets of appropriate thickness . this method can be made with simple hand tools like drill, dremel and scissors. maybe plastic could work but I don't see what advantage there could be

    about the timing light. is that a reasonable way to plot the ign curve of the cdi box ? ive found this one https://www.innova.com/en-US/Product...58344023769935

  12. #30462
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    3rd August 2012 - 02:39
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdc211 View Post
    Was that checked with a light?
    My 16 ign curve nothing like that
    150 cdi has more ign than a 125. at thats not even close to 15
    Totaly different partno. '16 50439031000 '17 50439131000

  13. #30463
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Looks like a great formula Rob. Clearly NF4 pipes aren't that common.
    I go here for parts, Japanese TradeMe, RS125 pipes run about $300 NZD landed here in NZ. https://www.jauce.com/

    Brought lots of different parts. Pipes, cylinders, wheels, NF4 fuel tank .....

  14. #30464
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    7th October 2015 - 07:49
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    Quote Originally Posted by lohring View Post
    And here I thought this site was allergic to piston port designs. I decided to take it to the limit with a divided intake. It takes a custom piston with a full skirt and a longer rod so the piston clears the crank web. I'm also considering Frits' 4 transfer design. It would fit on a stock crankcase with minor modifications. I'll need to finish modeling both versions to see if I missed anything.

    Lohring Miller

    Attachment 337764 Attachment 337765
    Probably, intake duration can be little bit higher at deepest intake windows point, than at the frontal side. Would be interesting how engine respond with some angle on piston timing skirt.
    Long time ago I had 75' IZ Planeta Sport ( Yamaha licensed copy) motorcycle with piston ported and C transfer 340 cc engine (add photo).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #30465
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    I used to sandwich thin plate between two bits of thin plywood, clamp to cut without deforming plate.

    Dremel with sanding drum will clean up without pulling it out of shape.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

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