Tell me what you guys use when your spacing a cylinder up. Im looking for the right material . I was thinking plastic but what sort.
Tell me what you guys use when your spacing a cylinder up. Im looking for the right material . I was thinking plastic but what sort.
So the KTM has an ignition curve with only one thing remotely "right ".
About 15* at peak power.
Throw in a bunch of advance below 11,000 and juggle that with the PV full open point and suddenly mid range power will appear from nowhere.
Then correct the idiotic Aux port stagger issue and a huge mid increase is available.
This may need the main lifting a little as part of the " fix "to increase the peak and overev capability , but for sure the torque hole will be gone.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Thanks Im only going up 2mm and so it makes it a little tricky to make. I have a laser cutter so i can cut plastic if i want. I was looking for a good plastic to use
Base gaskets must be rigid; the cylinder ears will break off if not sufficiently supported. KTM, Kawasaki and Honda cylinder ears are notoriously vulnerable.
Using 1 mm of paper gaskets is already asking for trouble if you do not use a torque wrench.
If you're thinking of using 2 mm plastic here, you can save yourself some elbow grease by binning the cylinder right away.
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Sorry, I didnt mean take away from the lower portion of the port. I was going leave the main port alone, but maybe increase the Aux port width...they seem pretty small in comparison, but maybe they dont need to be that big.
But now after reading your other response, fudging the main port higher would possibly be a better solution. In this situation, would radiusing the upper portion of the port be beneficial, or just taking it up a bit would be better?
Will look into Ignitech, thanks!
Fiberglass plate with thin cooper layers, from electronic stuff. I use 1.5mm with " Wurth engine and housing sealing compound DP 300", for quick testing it works immediately, no leakage, no cracking. This year for testing I use four tube.
Like Frits write, stay away, if possible, from soft gasket as they always deform "ears" type cylinder. But if cylinder and head bolted to crankcase with same studs/bolts, maybe soft gasket is ok.
for cyl spacers, why not just use 6061 plate with klingersil homemade gaskets of appropriate thickness. this method can be made with simple hand tools like drill, dremel and scissors. maybe plastic could work but I don't see what advantage there could be
about the timing light. is that a reasonable way to plot the ign curve of the cdi box ? ive found this one https://www.innova.com/en-US/Product...58344023769935
I go here for parts, Japanese TradeMe, RS125 pipes run about $300 NZD landed here in NZ. https://www.jauce.com/
Brought lots of different parts. Pipes, cylinders, wheels, NF4 fuel tank .....
Probably, intake duration can be little bit higher at deepest intake windows point, than at the frontal side. Would be interesting how engine respond with some angle on piston timing skirt.
Long time ago I had 75' IZ Planeta Sport ( Yamaha licensed copy) motorcycle with piston ported and C transfer 340 cc engine (add photo).
I used to sandwich thin plate between two bits of thin plywood, clamp to cut without deforming plate.
Dremel with sanding drum will clean up without pulling it out of shape.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
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