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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #30481
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    Dazz just did the transmission on Dennis 400 Superlight with the lube coating as well as a TM piston for me to dyno test the result. He did the ring and small end pin as well. Be interesting to see the result.
    Although the components were dry that pin just slipped right through the piston bosses real easy. Quite different to the way it was before it was treated.

    I am very interested to see the dyno results.

  2. #30482
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    3rd August 2012 - 02:39
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    Quote Originally Posted by shnaggs View Post
    Thanks Wobbly. I wouldn’t dream of taking more off the bottom aux, I’ve been learking around here too long to fall into that. Although I was surprised that you didn’t say I could widen the aux ports more, but I guess that would be too much and maybe not as beneficial, especially because of not having plugs for the wrist pin.
    13.5 is the max

  3. #30483
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    20th April 2011 - 08:45
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    Quote Originally Posted by peewee View Post
    i thought of welding the spacer to the cyl but never got around to it. gluing it to the cases seems like it would work fine.
    It would, until you need to split the cases. I'd rather glue the spacer to the cylinder. But I'd never weld it.

  4. #30484
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    20th June 2012 - 00:17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
    It would, until you need to split the cases. I'd rather glue the spacer to the cylinder. But I'd never weld it.
    That could cause an issue

  5. #30485
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    24th February 2013 - 08:12
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    Regarding friction and ways to decrease, could this new two stroke oil be something? Based on the Triboron (TM) technology. Could it have a potential compared to well established racing oils and/or other possible friction modifiers? Friction measurements along with further statements are presented on the homepage (http://triboronproducts.com). Recommends to be mixed with half of what is used with conventional oils. It seems as if it has just come out on the market 2018. Statements from the two stroke oil data sheet:

    "Triboron is a unique, patented technology for
    reducing mechanical friction.
    The Triboron Technology interacts with the
    metal surfaces and forms a tribo-film layer
    that reduces friction coefficient with up to
    50% and protects mechanical parts from
    wear.
    In addition to sustainable fuel savings of up
    to 10%, Triboron also reduces harmful
    emissions of carbon monoxide CO and
    hydrocarbonsHC with up to 25%.
    Verified results in real-life and laboratory
    tests. The Boron compounds and the
    substances used in the production process
    are harmless for nature."

  6. #30486
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    24th February 2013 - 08:12
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    Wrong, I can see that the Triboron two stroke oil has been out for years...

  7. #30487
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    18th March 2012 - 08:35
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    Yes,.. that´s because triboron is 'snakeoil', many twostrokes seized.

  8. #30488
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    28th October 2011 - 20:02
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Attachment 338645

    New tool to play with, super finishing then impinging with stealth coat. Basically super smooth and impregnated with slippery shit.

    Developed by NASA for lube in outer space. Now used extensively in Formula 1 and NASCAR and Indy for greatly improved engine/gearbox reliability.

    Boring I know, but this is also great for plastic dies and screw injectors too.

    Looking at your photo the coating looks very simliar to WS2

  9. #30489
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    Yes its Tungsten Disulphide.

    Re the question I answered previously about seeing the Ex port STA seemingly too small.
    Jan had incrementally reduced the area below TPO on the Aprilia cylinders to lower the duct volume and also reduce the A port short circuiting.
    He was about to test a cylinder with the floor lifted way higher, but when 2T was killed by Honda in GP racing , Jan retired and the final tests were never completed.
    This pic as the last tested iteration I believe.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  10. #30490
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    21st August 2014 - 13:28
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    Thanks you for the CR250 piston link!

    I had a race at Philip Island on the weekend. I was woefully average


    I have some questions regarding the toroid head design.

    I've attached a questionable paint file.

    anyway. with a 14mm spark plug. how wider do you make the flat area where the spark plug comes through? (the Y dimension in the paint file)

    also I've been search the forum for 2 days straight, I know Wob has mentioned this before (but I cant find it). What is the distance you keep the spark plug from the top of the piston? (the X)

    this accurate paint file has a squish band area of 50% the bore diameter and a squish clearance of 1mm (250mx)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #30491
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    .
    From Wobbly.
    .

  12. #30492
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    Y = 18mm min , or the aluminium around the plug nose overheats.
    X = I have been down to 3.5mm from the earth electrode face - there will be an optimum plug position Vs toroid depth , but I have not had the chance to test a
    whole bunch of inserts with the same cc.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  13. #30493
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    NGK race plugs were originally designed to be about 1mm proud of the chamber,one reason there are no threads on the shell end.
    This leads on to one reason that a toroidal chamber design works best.
    I believe that plug position and indexing effects are reduced considerably by the quality of the CDI and the energy in the gap.
    Using Ignitech and 0.2 Ohm primary Aprilia RS250 ( RGV) coils, I tested plug indexing and found no difference - but the fine wire R7376-10 plug made near on 2 Hp in 50 against a
    Denso RS125 plug and a B10EGV.

    TeeZee, use the new pack and go feature and send me your files - I will get bored over Xmas at the motherinlaws, and have a play on the laptop.
    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    Y = 18mm min , or the aluminium around the plug nose overheats.
    X = I have been down to 3.5mm from the earth electrode face - there will be an optimum plug position Vs toroid depth , but I have not had the chance to test a
    whole bunch of inserts with the same cc.
    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    "MSV is high at 25M/Sec", forget all that old shit - here is the go with squish.
    In any race engine the squish height should be set at the minimum achievable,just shy of the piston tapping the head when overeved.
    In a bucket where the norm is "only" 13000 there is no reason to have any more than 0.6mm.
    The squish width based on MSV is a theoretical number of little relevance when we are running the piston in the powerband just short of hitting the head.
    But with a parrallel squish ( ie curved same as piston dome rad - or a straight cut with minimal divergence) then in most cases we can use 40 to 45% squish area.
    This generates MSV numbers in the high 30 M/Sec region.It has been stated in a few references that " high"squish velocity will bump up mid power and reduce the top end.
    Yes, in a limited view of things it does.But now that we have digital programmable ignitions thats rubbish.
    The high MSV increases turbulence in the end gases, this increases flame speed, and has the same effect as high com or too much advance.
    Simply retard the timing and the rpm comes back, but you keep the power generated by better turbulence burning up more of the end gas trapped in the squish.

    One point to remember is that the best radius on the squish corner into the bowl is no radius at all.A sharp corner with just with a rub of sandpaper to get rid of the ragged knife edge, works best.
    And with any of the race type plugs we are using approx 1mm of unthreaded plug end should be protruding into the chamber.
    The old B10EGV was originally designed to be used this way by NGK, but nowdays the trick plug is a R7376-10, this plug makes more power than any other tested with around +2 Hp better than an expensive Denso equivalent, here is the test i have shown before.

    Here is a pic of one of several "form tools" I have used for years cutting chambers.
    Now there are plenty around I always use CNC to generate a toroid insert, based on a CAD construction of the chamber, as its simply too hard to get a good shape ( and is a prick to measure properly) when doing it by hand.
    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    You should cut the plug surface such that the unthreaded end of the plug body protrudes 0.5mm into chamber.
    With a 10 range plug, then the vol to top of the plug hole is exactly 2.2cc bigger than the chamber.
    I use ATF in a burrette, no grease on the bore as you want to measure the above ring crevice vol as well.
    Find tdc, then drop the piston a small amount - fill the vol to 1/2 way up the threads, move the piston up/down, till fluid sits the highest,then fill to top.
    Leave the burrette sitting for 5 mins as the fluid left on the glass walls slowly runs down.
    While this is happening you can take off the head and clean things out.
    ............
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  14. #30494
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by crbbt View Post
    I've been search the forum for 2 days straight, I know Wob has mentioned this before (but I cant find it). What is the distance you keep the spark plug from the top of the piston? (the X)
    Here you are, I used the Google "site:" term. ie; " plug to piston distance site:https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner "

    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    To do a toroid properly you need to drop the plug tip to approx 6mm from the piston crown.

  15. #30495
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    22nd September 2012 - 16:31
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    I can't help but notice this line in the cylinder
    Maybe my eyes are deceiving me.
    So hard to tell from a pic.
    My free hand red line isnt perfect.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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