As Wobbly mentioned richer jetting. Wasn't that around the time that riders were running out of fuel? Did they have to make larger tanks?
As Wobbly mentioned richer jetting. Wasn't that around the time that riders were running out of fuel? Did they have to make larger tanks?
Haha, Rob , if Dazz coated the pin ends you could true it without a hammer.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
anyone tried fitting complete ign system from one engine to another ? thinking of trying to fit a 250ktm system to my old 550. problem is my flywheel is mounted on the opposite side so i would have to rotate the stator in such a way to account for the opposite direction flywheel spin. i want a way to have programming capabilities and this seems the only way. im not even sure the flywheel taper would be the same bit its worth a look
If you look around at
https://hpi.be/
they have a lot of information on rotor tapers that may let you ID what will or won't work on your bike. I think some ignitions are sensitive to the direction of rotation, you might be better off getting something meant for use on your bike rather than fighting to get something to work.
Jeff Henise has been making ignitions for various vintage bikes (CT-1 Yamaha, his F37 Kawasaki, CB160s) with the hpi parts and they seem to be very reliable and give good service.
cheers,
Michael
Ive installed a KX100 iggy system(LH side) on a Minarelli scooter(RH side),but I had to move the pickup(pulse) coil to get the proper 'phase' angle..It worked great then!I found the answer at this site;
http://www.sportdevices.com/ignition/ignition.htm
Hope this helps you move to the other side..![]()
Adapting ignitions with a single pickup on the outside is absolutely not an issue.
And that setup screams for an ignitech.
Pickup on the inside is not so easily.
The most challenging part is to machine the cone to suit if it does not fit.
But most modern bikes got the 1:5 taper so whilst having a few ignitions to choose from, that might be a swop as well.
@peewee
why dont you use the ignitech magneto lfs they offer in their shop?
For sure ....
Dazz did the Rotary Valve parts and Piston for me. Real happy with that. Only issue is to clean out the gear box housing, don't want any of that slippery stuff in the clutch. Maybe time to go air cooled clutch so I can have all the engine and gearbox parts super finished and stealth coated. Big thanks to Super Finishing Ltd.
As noted before most ignitions have the same 1:5 taper, just differing ID.
There are some ( very rare ) ignition modules that detect the trigger and power coil voltage peaks to prevent running backwards from a kick over misfire.
But no aftermarket CDI do this.
So all thats needed is to position the trigger correctly,most want the trailing edge of the lobe to pass the trigger pole center BTDC , this is called Base Advance.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
You only need multiple lobes ( usually with one missing ) to tell accurately a fuel injection ECU where the crank is located in relation to TDC.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Heres one for ya wob.
New 104cc .been playing on it.
No port sta. 27hp worth of transfer. In sim.
A port 120/B-119/ C 122 or something
High 1.35 case comp. . 29 ex tunnel exit . (Which is less area than a fully ported cylinder at 32mm)
A whole 14.3 comp/no sq. Pump gas. Ex port a whole 86,raduis to 85ish.subs 91. One single pv in main ex.
I havnt even ground on the ports on it yet.
I doubt sim will sim this high. Maybe cranking the combustion efficiency will get it up past 11-13% dyno hp. I am not sure. Havnt tried to get sim to match. I think the new tranfers and ex exit and pipe are the big reason
heres what im thinking and maybe im way off. from what ive read, nitro doesn't make as much power if it doesn't have enough spark lead. in top fuel cars I believe their rules only allow a certain max rpm and they limit it by retarding the spark. if I can fit a newer style flywheel and programable ign system to my bike then maybe I can find some free power by sorting out the spark curve. with the standard ign, if I try to advance the pickup trigger then it advances the whole curve respectively. I need to retard it alot in the beginning to get the engine started without fear of the dreaded kickback and breaking engine parts, then it can advance as needed once running
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