Hi Tz350. We used Ecotron few years ago and have to develop our proprietary system SmartEMS. May be its already suit you. Push me by jbiplane@gmail.com with all your wishes.
Hi Tz350. We used Ecotron few years ago and have to develop our proprietary system SmartEMS. May be its already suit you. Push me by jbiplane@gmail.com with all your wishes.
hey fellers I have some small progress and some questions for my next move. first two photos is just material I put at the rear of B and the caps welded back on.
third photo is just showing the longer exh passage and shell that ill use, along with a removable exh spigot, attached with three or four bolts.
fourth photo is showing what I think I could do with the water. spigot (red) will be welded to end of exh and the radiator hose can connect to it and carry on the the radiator top. does this seem like a reasonable method of routing the water ?
last photo . something keeps telling me to put epoxy on the front wall of B (right side of photo) so the charge goes more straight in the cylinder. then since I added material at the rear of B in the water jacket , ill be able to widen the window around back and make more of a radius turn into the cyl. I think this should increase the flow width, rather than keeping it like original (left side of photo). what do you think ?
Not really the place but the widest audience anyway
Anyone know the dimensions for a DR370/SP370 conrod?
Best i can make out is 32mm crankpin 20mm wristpin
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Awesome stuff, keen to see this happen. Also impressed by the oil pump, how slow does she go?!
I'd really love a small reliable pump, the KTM Mikuni pump was looking good but even they seem to be having lubrication failures. Considering just driving an old school mechanical pump with a servo motor.
Regarding the ignition, I was thinking of triggering my stock ignition the same way, mimic either the leading edge (to let the external ignition handle timing through its internal delay) or the trailing edge (to bypass the external ignition timing, giving full ECU control).
I was thinking to use a small signal transformer, to provide isolation between the ECU outputs and the floating pickup input to the external ignition. As the ECU switches the output to the transformer on and off you'll get a pulse one way, then the other on the output. Then use a diode to block the unwanted edge.
My engine is still sitting on the bench until I can afford to plate the cylinder and have the injector bungs welded in.![]()
hello!
im just curious about your calculator, lets say that for a 125 the goal was 30hp at 11.000 rpm the baffle stinger would be 17mm and then if the goal the was 50hp at same rpm then the baffle stinger would be 21.9 and that is the only factor that is changing when increasing the hp?
and as i have understand it, isn't "almost" the opposite way it should go?
best regards Reginaud.
just a little edit. can se that its just how the fos concept calculate the restrictor. but lets say that i would like to make a exhaust for my 50cc with just 10 hp at crankshaft then the restrictor will only be close to 10mm isn't that dangerously small?
At 50% it is to fast, any slower and there is not enough starting torque. I would think the peristaltic pump driven by a stepper motor would be ideal. I was going to add a PWM timer to mine. But your idea looks better and could be matched to engine rpm and throttle position, that would be just the Bee's Knees.
I tried my ignition idea tonight. It would spark a few times then stop. I think the Ignitec ignition input is a very high impedance and the Speeduino output is also a very high impedance when its switched low. So things get pumped up to 5 Volts and the Ignitec does not get to see a low voltage and re set itself. Tomorrow night I am going to tie the Speeduino's ignition output to earth with a resistor. hopefully that will allow a reliable 0 to 5 and back to 0 Volts swing at the Speeduino's ignition terminal.
I like your small coil idea and I will adopt that as my plan B, thanks for the suggestion.
It is not my concept, so don't ask me any questions about it . All I did was add a Wobbly-duct and make the multiple sections with adjustable sliders.
and it's only a concept, not meant to design full-factory pipes. Besides, if you extract 20BHP more, I suspect your exhaust gases are hotter so you need to change that to and more stuff will change besides the stinger dia.
just yesterday, Frits answered your question on Pitlane ;-)
http://www.pit-lane.biz/t6246p525-gp...vermars-part-5
Stem power looks the go, what are the rules for a Steam powered Bucket???? ......![]()
P-p-put the kettle on Granville.
And if you crash try not to get stuck under the bike. ouchie!
Fogging visors will be an issue even on dry days.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Ok, I have been able to get the Speeduino number 1 ignition output talking to the Ignitec crank sensor input by putting in a 10K Ohm resistor that pulls the Speeduino output / Ignetec input to 0 volts between ignition pulses that way the Ignitec can see the start of the next ignition event.
When I tried to start it the bike gave a few splutters and coughs so it might start to run properly when I get the fuel map dialed in, fingers crossed.
Regarding the stinger size in the FOS spreadsheet.
Understand that this can only ever be a guide to a good start point for any pipe project , and that the only way to get anything really close is to analyse the design fully in EngMod.
By looking at the gas Mach in the stinger you can optimize the design , BUT the stinger size is dependent upon a very wide range of parameters ,and as such can have a wide range of optimum sizes.
As a general rule , the greater the bmep the higher the mass gas flow thru the engine ( delivery ratio ) thus a bigger stinger is needed to maintain the optimum pipe residual pressure.
Having a 21.9mm stinger on an Aprilia making only 50 Hp would be fine , go to the real numbers of 55Hp and closer to 23 ( what the factory used ) would be optimum for road racing.
But again , as a general rule , the bigger the stinger , the better the power is , in the lower mid range as the reduced back-pressure reduces the pipes efficiency when the return wave comes back too early.
This is what is needed in MX , so the road racing smaller stinger would not be optimum.
A TM kart engine makes 2 Hp more at 9,000 with a 24mm stinger , but makes 2 Hp more at 13,500 with a 22.8mm insert nozzle in that same pipe.
Nothing is close to a free lunch.
How the hell can a simple spreadsheet accommodate all those variables - it cant , obviously.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Wob, I completely agree with all of the above. But I think I need to clarify a thing or two.
As far as I'm concerned, there is no FOS spreadsheet; I've never published a single spreadsheet in my life.
I posted the simple drawing shown below, called 'FOS exhaust concept', and several people built a spreadsheet around this drawing and called it a 'FOS spreadsheet'.
Maybe I should feel flattered, but I'd rather wish they hadn't. To begin with, I kept my concept so simple that nobody should need a spreadsheet wrapped around it.
Over time I made some small adjustments, but not all these spreadsheets were brought up to date, so now there are different confusing versions around.
And finally, those spreadsheets were regrettably posted without my accompanying text, which read:The 'FOS exhaust concept' is only meant to help beginning tuners on their way. Many important factors, like compression ratio, ignition timing, type of fuel, carburetter diameter, crankcase volume and angle.areas, are not taken into account.
Instead of all those factors that I left out, I included one variable, the speed of sound. Starting with 550 m/s will get you in the right ballpark, after which you can vary this value according to your findings.
You should not use this simple exhaust concept to improve on the highly developed RSA engine, where all of the above-mentioned factors were taken into account.
Final remark: the calculation of the tailpipe restrictor diameter is critical: you can only apply it to engines that are thermally sound. Air-cooled engines are not.![]()
Anyone made front fork tubes with 4130 Chrome molly tube. There is some 3 mm wall thickness stuff for sale which looks promising. The 1964 Duke I'm working on has 31.5 mm tubes and new are US$500 plus postage !!! Only found one supplier so far. Next option is to bore the fork legs out to 32 mm and use a GN125 set. .
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