ESE's works engine tuner

[Tim Knopper]

It has been done properly by these guys.
50cc 24.5Hp 18000.

https://www.facebook.com/sprintperfo...930050083/?t=0

Notice that it takes full throttle and pulls hard at 10,000 and then spins past 18,000

Built by two brothers Alexander and Rob v. Rossum (RVRT ) and 23 pk is the limiet reed engine as wel rotary
They say making new cilinder but till this moment COMPLETE SILENCE

And Wobbly they have nothing with simulation software (playstation game)

[jbiplane]

Hi folks. Looking for drawings of exhaust ball connectors. At moment did by myself, but may be exist some standards or best pracrics?

[Frits Overmars]

Hi folks. Looking for drawings of exhaust ball connectors. At moment did by myself, but may be exist some standards or best pracrics?

https://www.google.nl/search?newwind...mg.wx9Fjq8fbVM

https://www.google.nl/search?newwind...19.LgqqqJiycEk

These websites show mostly foul-stroke connectors. But I seem to remember that a number of kart engines also had a ball exhaust coupling, Rotax for example.

[136kg136ps]

Looks like a good way to try different venturi inserts.

[Juho_]

Impressive!
Wobbly, I was expecting to see fuel spraying out of the powerjet but didn't see that. Why would they have had it closed for the whole pull?

Power jet can be used at higher rpm's or @ wot below pipe.

My 55cc engine seems to want richer mixture around 8-9krpm.
When adjusted for best peak hp/torque and overrev, it will bog at 8-9krpm when trying to start pull with full throttle.
If the main jet is too big (power loss, and lack of overrev); it does pull without trouble even from 5,000rpm and only slight power loss at 8,000-9,000rpm (just before, when pipe starts working).

Retarding or advancing ignition timing at 8,000-9,000rpm area has not done any good.
Solenoid controlled power jet could be the solution.

I have Mikuni TM28 carb on it. No dyno runs on 'real dyno' to see what kind of power figures I could actually be able to get this time... expecting around 17-18hp@14,5krpm with maximum of 16,000rpm.
GSF Dyno has shown more than 20% gain at peak hp and same torque output versus the pull compared to 'real dyno' (Fuchs: 15,1hp@11,228rpm and 9,8nm@10,770rpm.. max rpm 13,800rpm).
But it must be kept on mind, "street dynoing" can never be truely compared to dyno.

24,5hp from 50cc engine is very, very impressive. It must have taken a quite long development to achieve that kind of numbers.
For me it has taken over 2 years to achieve good driveability and power, but also enough overrev. Small karting tracks on mind.

[peewee]

guys I was able to start some welding. it took a while to figure out how to bring the aux ears into the main passage and transition the whole mess into a round spigot at the end, so that held me up for a bit. but I think I got it right or mostly right I hope . my plan for next two weeks is grind the floors and weld on the passage and do the buildup for the aux passage then weld on the outer water shell

[peewee]

does anyone know if theres a place making wristpin plugs or is that something you have to make yourself ?

[wobbly]

Juho, the symptom you describe can be due to two main variables.
Ist is the main air corrector is wrong , this is something that TZ350 has described at length in his project on here.
A bigger main with a bigger air corrector , in general ,will be richer at lower rpm then lean out both sides of peak Hp.
2nd , the fuel ratio in the situation of WOT at low rpm is set specifically by the needle end diameter sitting in the emulsion tubes bore area.
This annulus area , when correct ,sets the A/F ratio so efficiently you can remove the main jet and it will run fine well up the rpm range before going rich.

[F5 Dave]

So ignitech P2 vs PV RZ servo. Set up so power disconnected. Up 2120mV. Down 1240mv. There's room above the PV at top, just I'm not driving it that far.

Set up servo screen with these figures and servo power plug back in.
Turn ignition on and cycles. So far so good.

But using test button it goes up and then back down. Doesn't stay up. Down button just groans a second as already down.


Under test buttons says 500ms. Altering this doesn't seem to do anything.

Can't see how to alter hysteresis either.

[wobbly]

Hysteresis is on the servo map page.
The 500 on the test page is the test speed ( time to go up ).
I will be setting up a P4 very soon on Charlets RZ400 so will see what that does , but seems normal to me that if you press down, and its already down
on a hard limit then it will only try to go to the programmed value plus the hysteresis.

[TZ350]

This is the PV curve from the Black Beast.

You can probably get away with just three points. I suspect the more points there are on the graph the slower the response.

The + - thing on the test page moves the PV then returns it back to its original place.

[F5 Dave]

This is the PV curve from the Black Beast.

You can probably get away with just three points. I suspect the more points there are on the graph the slower the response.

The + - thing on the test page moves the PV then returns it back to its original place.

Its does? Wicked. Would have been more useful to leave it open so you can check it I would have thought. But I guess that is one reason Wobblys instructions I saved were to disconnect the power and move manually.

Thanks guys.

S'funny. Yours is the P2 Race. Mine has Servo enable box in the top left corner and I don't think anything in that row shown where yours is. I'll recheck and I have an older P2 as well to compare.

[marsheng]

Juho, the symptom you describe can be due to two main variables.
Ist is the main air corrector is wrong , this is something that TZ350 has described at length in his project on here.
A bigger main with a bigger air corrector , in general ,will be richer at lower rpm then lean out both sides of peak Hp.
2nd , the fuel ratio in the situation of WOT at low rpm is set specifically by the needle end diameter sitting in the emulsion tubes bore area.
This annulus area , when correct ,sets the A/F ratio so efficiently you can remove the main jet and it will run fine well up the rpm range before going rich.

This may be my problem well. I used the 3 days at the Southern Classic to 'play' with my bike. On the rebuild, I reduce the compression from 11.8 : 1 to 10:1 and the bike became much more ride able. I could tootle around at low rpm quite well and then open it up to get going. Very nice.

I found 2 problems, one as you describe above and it happened going from 5K to 5.5k. The motor just fluffed around but still pulled till 5.5k, then it reved well through to 8.5k.

The other I have never had before. The motor fluffed a bit for around 1.5 to 2 laps over the bottom rev range and wasn't quite crisp at high. Felt like too rich. Once I had a a few good burns down the straight, the motor then woke up and ran very nicely. I was wondering if the exhaust enclosed in the fairing made the difference. In the past, I seemed to loose a bit of power after a few laps. Once the motor was 'warm' this time it pulled well lap after lap. .

[wobbly]

Yes you are correct TeeZee. With a bunch of points on the curve the response time is alot slower.
Enough that you can see it cant keep up , on the dyno when accelerating real quick in the lower gears.
Personally I dont like the Race servo operation, as the thing supplies power to the servo motor if its even 1mV off the programmed value.
In a P2 as soon as the position is within the set value , including the hysteresis , the power is off completely.

[TZ350]

Its does? Wicked. Would have been more useful to leave it open so you can check it I would have thought.

What I do for checking PV position is to move a couple of the servo map points on the left in the engine stopped rpm range to some new place, then Program. Then power the bike down then up again. On power up the Ignitec moves the PV servo to this new dummy position on the map. I use this method to find the upper and lower PV position or start and finish mV range for my map. Actually it has been a while, but come to think of it. Just hitting "Program" may be enough to get the servo to move to the new test position.

The last big hurdle was setting up the power valve servo control in the Ignitec software. I have never had a power valve before and had no idea how it is supposed to be done but this is how I went about it.

Found an old post.....