ridiculous loads of crankcase volume.
For the F4 110cc CVT project I was going to make a traditional style of crankshaft but have decided to test the "more is better" crankcase volume theory.
The theory has it, that with a good pipe the more crankcase volume there is the more air/fuel the pipe can suck into the cylinder as it is easier to take a deep breath from a room full of air than from a thimble. Being CVT I wont have to worry about crankcase pumping at lower RPM of the pipe because the clutch on this thing will be set to kick in, well into the torque curve at 9,000 rpm and setup to run through to 13,000 or so.
The Suzuki V100 scooter crank already is the correct stroke so I will just bore the pin holes to 22mm for the RD400 rod. If this does not work, plan "B" is to de stroke the crank and fit a performance aftermarket cylinder for 70cc and turbocharge the sucker to fill up that case volume. We already have a brand new miniature turbo the right size.
if you can just get one side fitted then trace it on paper for a template on the other three sides. on another note. im ordering a right side rad from the newest 250sx that should work great for this engine. ill just reposition the hose nipples and add some mounting brackets . ill report back in a few days when that shows up
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There are some hugely talented people in the motorcycling world in general who have so much energy and do such incredibly interesting work, I take my hat off to them.......![]()
Check out the width of that small cylinders exhaust port.
Gee, why stop at 170* bore width? Go for 350.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
I cant seeing it bettering 70HP at 30,000RPM.
Hes having a go at plating it himself.
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
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We experimented with 85% in a 50, as a way of trying to get the required blow down time area at 14,000 and an ideal exhaust port and pipe resonant timing of 192 - 194 duration.
85% on the small 50cc cylinder worked Ok without breaking the (steel) ring but we managed to ruin the cylinder in other ways.
got a bit more done today. even though the cylinders are squashed together so bad, im going to make the water jacketing around the aux ears go as far toward the rear of the cyl as I possibly can. the 250sx radiator will be here tomorrow and wonder how you think the best way to route the water hoses into it ? youll see what I meen in the photo. what im thinking to do is weld on a elbow to each cyl near the exh spigot. then either have the hoses go into a Y and then just a single inlet into the top of the rad or keep both hoses separate and run both into the top of the rad. it would be simpler to just weld on one hose nipple rather than two. do you guys see any reason not to use a single hose into the rad rather than two ?
As we seem to be on Ex ports at the moment, is there an accepted "safe" % of bore width for a briged port?
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