The plan is to cast a new side case with a sealing flange (a bit like old Kawasaki RV engines) so I can cover the whole inlet / throttle drive, with perhaps a chance to try my hand at some carbon fiber to make a nice light cover. The airfilter will be where the radiator once was. Even with this side cover it will still be thinner than a standard YZ if you include the YZ's chamber at that point. This set up will be good enough to run round the yard and dyno with just a pod type air filter hose clipped on. Still a wee bit to do.
Thank you Frits, I couldn't remember the exact details.
Thought I might be down some 'quantum physics' STIC worm hole.
In the tradition of Bucket racing.
For the price of a new ring, I got these beauties off a Japanese auction site, seven NX4 piston assemblies. These had been religiously changed at Honda,s (money making) suggested maintenance intervals. These will be great, they are like new and will be good for all sorts of experiments, like radius-ed timing edges. Any one of them will run for ages in my Bucket, or at least until I over heat it again, but then I do have a few spares.
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Ooh, do they come with circlips fitted?
Do you realise if you repack an old muffler and its really oily you can squeeze that right back into the oil container?
They smear the ring lands over where the bridge bears. Check there for ring freedom.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Here's a hot Bucketeering tip, put anti seize on your piston skirt to stop it seizing.![]()
We have plenty of that, but I could do something better:-
Super Finishing and Stealth Coating:- https://www.facebook.com/pg/SuperFin...=page_internal now that is some slippery shit.
The plant is real close to us and did a piston assembly for me the other day. My motor has the rod assembly, bearings, gearbox and rotary valve have all been super finished and stealth coated.
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While we're on the topic of ignition timing and combustion duration, I have a question about bore size. I've seen Wobbly, and maybe others, state that a fast water cooled 125cc should have ignition timing in the range of 15* BTDC at peak if everything is near optimal. Is this peak torque OR peak power OR both?
Also, how loosely does this apply for much larger bore engines, say 80mm or larger? I assume it comes down to the combustion duration. Can combustion duration be similar in large bore engines to a 125cc? Another scenario would be going from big to bigger...going from 80mm bore to 85mm bore, the old practice would be to throw a few (+3*) timing at it to account for the 'longer burn time' from the larger bore. Does that make sense or is that old practice just masking a problem?
Both, more or less. The RSA for example has 16˚ at max.torque (12500 rpm) and 15˚ or 14˚ at max.power (13000 rpm).
Combustion duration, expressed in seconds, will be longer when the bore gets bigger and the flame has to travel over a greater distance.how loosely does this apply for much larger bore engines, say 80mm or larger? I assume it comes down to the combustion duration. Can combustion duration be similar in large bore engines to a 125cc? Another scenario would be going from big to bigger...going from 80mm bore to 85mm bore, the old practice would be to throw a few (+3*) timing at it to account for the 'longer burn time' from the larger bore.
But as the bore gets bigger, the specific angle.areas become smaller and the revs must become lower in order to maintain the optimum specific time.areas.
Because of these lower revs, the combustion duration, expressed in crank degrees, will be largely independent on the bore. And the same goes for the ignition timing.
In reality, big singles often have a couple of degrees more ignition advance as a consequence of the fact that big singles are usually found in MX, Enduro and similar forms of agricultural racing, where combustion duration is a bit longer because the engines are not as highly tuned as the small-bore units used in road racing and karting.
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