When you say "push for HP" do you mean more revs or more torque in the standard rev range?
Still trying to add the quote to the reply.....
The bike is a F2 pre-89. I have a motor prepared by wobbly for someone else for road use i bought on Trade me that gives 57hp from 8,500 to 10,500. (Too slow)
I want more power and slightly higher revs. I have a second motor under reconstruction ( left side crank nearly touching case when opened up)
and want to lighten the load by shedding the rotor weight. I dont want to stroke the crank
We fitted a powerdyno race ignition to a TZ350a/b motor and it ran well and the rotor weight was 190g from memory. I have been thinking about fitting the powerdyno and then working on trying to trigger the YPVS controller running from a battery. Also thinking about taking the magnets out of the standard rotor (thats got to shed a fair chunk of weight) and then run a zeeltronic with PV on total loss battery and use the yamaha pick up (or whats required) to trigger off the existing lugs on the standard rotor.
Would like some discharge rates on batteries to get my head around battery size ....(wind turbine?????)
Would like some discharge rates on batteries to get my head around battery size ....(wind turbine?????)
cheers
M
It's not the discharge rate you need - it's the running current draw of your Zeeltronic. A big 4T running a basic Dyna on total loss draws around 1.6 amps.
For our short races, I find a 6 AH battery is sufficient for a days racing. Next time you fire up the one with the Zeeltronic, put a multimeter in circuit for a baseline on current draw.
Total loss is not the answer when using a digital cdi , as they perform best when paired with a charging system running at 14,2V minimum.
The best rotor to use is a 800g 100mm unit as used on dozens of smaller Jap copy engines.
The output can be increased in many cases by winding the redundant ignition source coil bobins with extra 12V windings.
Then you machine a small area on the outer face and heat slip fit a thin ring onto this - enabling the simple 3 lobe setup for an Ignitech
to trigger two cdi differentially from a single trigger ( mounted in the stock case pocket area. )
This gets rid of using twinspark per rev, that fires both plugs at the same time.
Using this simple setup gives the best inertia compromise for the big twin has plenty of sprk power using RGV250 coils, and of course
the Ignitech has the PV servo control onboard,
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
I replaced my older zeel with ignitech just easy. (Old zeel on shelf if keen)
Mine as it came had TZR reedblocks and PWK28s. Massive improvement over std setup.
You'll need to rebuild the crank with decent stuff if you want to rev higher. You can buy stroked cranks of various quality (research) . It isnt a bad idea as it gets you closer to square which brings benefits beyond just the cc increase.
I sold my Toomey pipes to Sam down in chch, I don't think he ever got around to putting them on. There will be much better pipes but depends upon the budget. Managed 70hp so they aren't total dross.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
12Volt AC Scooter/Pitbike type of generator, Voltage rectifier/regulator with a 25Volt/2500uF capacitor and Sparker DCCDIP2 Race"Ignitec" is our setup of choice.
No battery required and it still runs a power valve ok. Just push and go.
When tested, at 13,000 rpm, with one channel of the CDI running the Ignitech was drawing 1.5A so a twin I guess would be 3A. At idle it was 0.2A.
With a CDI the current draw goes up with RPM as the capacitor is being charged more often.
With a normal inductive ignition the current draw goes down with rpm as the points are closed on average for less time.
Just looked at PowerDyno for RD/LC/TZ - wouldnt run it if they gave at away.
2* of retard from 6 to 12,000 - joke.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
This is automatically tuning system FAI EFI for 4-stroke. Just start and play by throttle few minutes to calibration. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FAI-motorcy...-/273178456487
Seems should be simple and elegant way use it on 2-strokes?
It does not seem to have any O2 sensor with the kit.
my guess is it generic pics or its tucked in behind ,its listed in the blurb..........
Initialization
If your engine works well with the kit,please ignore this,in case of following situation,you may need the initialization:
1.Your engine works not very well.
2.Oxygen sensor is newly mounted.
3.ECU is replaced.
4.Injection assembly is replaced
The 3 oxygen sensor seat is welded to the front end of the exhaust pipe, the exhaust pipeand the installation of the oxygen sensor installed. (welding standard chart)
The FAI injector in the EFI system has two interfaces, one is the supply port (Language), an oil return port (exhaust port, with fine) fuel switch pipe and exhaust pipe, no anti reverse. Avoidexcessive pressure, tubing is bent or curved around too much, otherwise it will lead to the oilpipeline is blocked or accumulated in a large number of bubbles. Especially the exhaust oil return pipe to ensure the above to ensure a smooth upward from the bubble.
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
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Originally Posted by RZ350
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