Thanks Wobbly, I think it's a 120/70 right now. Less profile will help?
Thanks Wobbly, I think it's a 120/70 right now. Less profile will help?
Stay at 120 but lower the section height , this keeps the grip , lowers the front and puts more weight transfer into the front tyre when turning in.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Ok, I understand this will reduce the trail. It respond quickly but just needs a lot of counter steering or leaning out.
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Thanks to everyone for the helpful suggestions, they all made sense.
I have now modified the air correction and idle air on the carb with replaceable jets to make it easier to find the optimum air correction. I also now have a programmable digital ignition so I can bend the ignition curve for a bit of drive out of the corners and pipe heating for over rev.
Once I get the ignition installed I will get it on the dyno to see what the effect is and if I can duplicate the Red line in the over rev area.
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A combination of the power curves will be nice, the good bits of course.
Yes. Going to see what can be done. I am currently converting a Chinese magneto thing to a generator to power the programable ignition. Basically it will be just a push and go system. No battery just generator, voltage rectifier/regulator, capacitor and DC-CDI programable ignition that creates its own CDI charge from the 12V DC power supply.
Making a decent ignition from a Chinese aftermarket thing:- https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...post1131033289
Hey all! Bought a chainsaw today. wanted double the price if I would get one with 3hp instead of 2hp. started it and did not feel so fun, maybe I can fix it a bit (did I sketch on an exhaust) ... Are there any here who have fumbled with chainsaws? Also had carburetor lying around. It's a 35cc.
No amount of experimentation can ever prove me right; a single experiment can prove me wrong.
I'd tune it for max power ignoring the fact if what it has to interface into.
I'm a bit stupid that way.
Can you put a clutch on it to fan the revs up a bit?
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
2 Stroke Stuffing.
Something like this?
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
We modified a 35 cc race engine to give almost 12 hp. We changed to a high rpm pipe and lost 2 hp but could run the engine to its mechanical limit around 23,000 rpm. See https://www.modelgasboats.com/magazi...-record-engine for the details of our testing and modifications.
Lohring Miller
The stuff is not the most robust on the market so it will not be any 15000k, but what can you expect for 300 €. Exhaust, I think it should get at least. Was out and used it today and it is quite weak. Disassembled it when I was done outdoors. The port geometry and engine design are almost made to be able to adjust (or not) ..
If I manage to squeeze out 3-4 hp, I am more than happy
No amount of experimentation can ever prove me right; a single experiment can prove me wrong.
Tighten up squish and raise compression, raise ports back up to where they were, a little more intake area... and that's it.
A full expansion chamber you'll need to rev it more, and I don't think you'll have as widen of a powerband without a lot of pipe development. The stock cans on engines like this are really good for the powerband they need to run in.
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