ESE's works engine tuner

[Henrik Y]

.
Hi Henrik Y. Thanks for posting your Suzuki GP project. I loved the hand shifter modification your made that makes riding easier for you.

Here are some of the details about our gear box conversions....

Thank you!

I had a look around and found an old Suzuki RG 125 for cheap, it looked very much like the TS and GP gearbox so I just bought it so will see how it turns out.

[F5 Dave]

So aside from just running that engine, you will need a long rod and sturdy alloy block to adapt the narrow GP barrel to a wider crankcase.

[TZ350]

.


I had nearly given up hope and was going to use the basic road setup but a gift from the Gods arrived on my desk a couple of days ago.
A genuine Kawasaki factory F81M close ratio gearbox. Thanks Flettner....
.

[pete376403]

Now you need the F81m ignition rotor instead of the monster that is standard

[Peter1962]

There is also the modification for the bighorn gearbox that klemracing.com is selling : they use a fifth gear from the H1 and a purpose built first gear. http://www.klemmvintage.com/bighorntech.htm
This facebook message gives the price : 209 dollars, that was in 2018 https://www.facebook.com/12051123795...5923856084764/

[TZ350]

.



It is the Benelli's in the pre 72 Post Classic class that I am hoping to chase around with the 250cc Kawasaki.



The ignition system is a DCCDIP2Race Ignitec firing both outputs into a Crain coil and surface gap plug. So basically something like an arc welder getting the Methanol burning. I need 14 Volts and 80 Watts for this system.



The generator is a modified light weight Chinese after market unit that I re wind for greater output. Hopefully I can get 80Watts out of this one. 80 Watts is not needed all the time as demand is RPM dependent. There is no battery in the system. Only two (4amp) Voltage rectifier regulators and 56000uF 50V capacitors. A simple push and it all lights up. We have similar systems on some of our other bikes so have complete confidence in it.

Another benefit of the Ignitec ignition is that it can pulse a power jet. The Ignitec works by grounding the power jet solenoid coil. So all I need is a temperature sensor on the head that supply's power to the solenoid when the engine gets hot and the power jet dumps extra Methanol into the carb to cool the engine. That way I get the start and first lap or so with the engine running clean. Then when its warmed up the extra Meth will keep it cooled and reliable for the rest of the race.

[Peter1962]

.



It is the Benelli's in the pre 72 Post Classic class that I am hoping to chase around with the 250cc Kawasaki.



The ignition system is a DCCDIP2Race Ignitec firing both outputs into a Crain coil and surface gap plug. So basically something like an arc welder to get the Methanol burning. I need 14 Volts for this system.



The generator is a modified light weight Chinese after market unit that I re wind for greater output. Hopefully I can get 80Watts out of this one. 80 Watts is not needed all the time as demand decreases at lower RPM. There is no battery in this system. Only two (4amp) Voltage regulators and 56000uF 50V capacitors. A simple push and it all lights up. We have similar systems on some of our other bikes so have complete confidence in it.

Wouldn't the suggested solution by klemmvintage not be easier ? Buy a cheap KX 250 +2000 ignition.

[TZ350]

Wouldn't the suggested solution by klemmvintage not be easier ? Buy a cheap KX 250 +2000 ignition.

Easier maybe, but it wouldn't have the programable features of the Ignitec or the fire power. One of the other things I want to do is use the Ignitecs power valve servo feature to open/close a bleed on the side of the dwell section of the expansion chamber.

The object here is to vary the working pressure inside the expansion chamber. Earlier experiments on the dyno showed that the sick area in the torque curve just before the engine came on the pipe could be considerably cleaned up by dropping the pressure in the pipe. it became obvious on the dyno that the pipe pressure only had to be at its normal value at peak torque. Every where else it was better to have lower pipe pressure than you got with a fixed stinger optimized for maximum power.

I am also interested to see if dropping the pipe's working pressure after max power helps with reducing over rev detonation. And may be it will also help extend over rev itself.

Attachment 320042

Some time ago Frits posted an idea on how to reduce over run deto and cylinder overheating by lowering the pipes internal operating pressure in the over rev zone.

Attachment 320043

I made my own version of a pipe pressure blead from a model aero engine carburettor body and gave it a try.

Unfortunately it was only hand controlled and I could not get an overrun picture but it did show some interesting pre peak power results.

Attachment 320044

Blue is with it closed and the pipe at its normal internal pressure and red is with it open and some of the pressure bleed off. A surprisingly useful extra 500 rpm at the lower end and another surprise was that it was not that noisy.

I am sure that once it can be automatically controlled by the IgniTech, say closing at 10,500 rpm and opening again at 12,500 it would add some usefull spread and reduce over run deto and maybe even extend the over rev a bit.

500rpm at the bottom plus another 500 at the top and a reduction in cylinder overheating would be very handy in anyone's books.

So a pipe pressure bleeder looks like a useful option if you are looking for ways to extend the power spread and avoid (reduce) over heating from hot exhaust gases back flowing down the transfer ducts during over rev when blowdown is time limited and the internal pipe pressure is high.

[speedpro]

I seem to recall conversations with Pete Sale where he was complaining about detonation in his 400 2T when he closed the throttle. Possibly something to do with an "unclean" mixture and chemistry with the methanol.

[TZ350]

I seem to recall conversations with Pete Sale where he was complaining about detonation in his 400 2T when he closed the throttle. Possibly something to do with an "unclean" mixture and chemistry with the methanol.

Yes. If you have maximum spark timing for drive out of corners. A 2T needs to retard the spark when the throttle is (partly) closed because there is reduced cylinder purging and pipe suction on part throttle and there is more hot dirty contaminated mixture left in the cylinder.

Jamathi talks about it here:- https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...tuner/page2000 about half way down the page.

[TZ350]

.



Flettner's bike. Worlds first, mk2 TPI and Sliding Gib throttle / variable rotary valve timing all in one.

[TZ350]

.



Open heart surgery replacing the standard F5 gear cluster with the new (to me) F81M close ratio cluster.

.

[F5 Dave]

I seem to recall conversations with Pete Sale where he was complaining about detonation in his 400 2T when he closed the throttle. Possibly something to do with an "unclean" mixture and chemistry with the methanol.

He told me that initially they had a wasted spark ignition that methanol wasn't keen on.

[F5 Dave]

.



Open heart surgery replacing the standard F5 gear cluster with the new (to me) F81M close ratio cluster.

.

I might need to change my KB name now that F5 means something different

[TZ350]

.



Engine back together with the highly coveted F81M gear cluster.



Massive spark injector hiding under the tail of the tank.