Motul 7100 with ester blend, it can harm the seals due to the esters, or that is a notion from the past? Also the 710/800 is offered for a good price occasonally -they are good?
Motul 7100 with ester blend, it can harm the seals due to the esters, or that is a notion from the past? Also the 710/800 is offered for a good price occasonally -they are good?
7100 is recommended in my Beta manual for injection. Motul are owned by Mobil I believe.
Sounds like you've been on some internet forums.
I ran 400 and then 800 for like 2 decades on race bikes with no seal damage, like ever.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Aha, Thanks.
Actually youtube is the culprit
Caltex petrol in the 80s had Boron (marketing p.o.d). I'm not sure if it was good or bad for the Bore, but you'd bet that opinion would depend upon who was lining your pockets.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Several years ago I tested a huge number of oils for a customer on the dyno. It was a KT100 Yamaha on direct drive and the top guys were running them real hot.
Short story is that all the pure synthetics such as Motul 800 , Elf 976 etc lost power big time when run on the edge , and visible piston wear marks quickly became visible.
Then on a new piston I ran various semi synth and straight castor products.
All tests went to 680*C in the header and ran 20:1.
The loss of power at very high egt dissapeared using Elf semi syn 909 and Motul Kart GP ,Castrol M , Maxima 927 etc.
I tried using 909 in Avgas but it had severe problems with seperation if left to sit.
So I now use Motul Kart GP in racebikes on Avgas as well as karts on pump fuel - never had any issues.
I have a few customers that use Vroom , but thats doing tuning properly with a weather station and egt - its so clean the piston has virtually no brown marking even after a whole race weekend.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
As for the impact of 710 or 800 on the seals, I ran motul 800 50:1 in a 130cc vespa in a 3000 mile cannonball run, followed by many more 1000 mile endurance runs over several years (sitting for months in between). All at high speeds (for a vespa) EGT at 600-675C, and never had an issue with the seals (or anything else lubrication related).
Patrick Owens
www.OopsClunkThud.com
Why on earth would Motul have a different formula for karts being such a small market? (Actual question) I'd assumed it was 800 repackaged. Actually a kart guy had told me that.
Actually today I got my Beta manual on thumb drive today. It recommended some brand I'd never seen. The manual I'd downloaded from the Norf Mercan site said all Motul products.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Of interest a team here that has historically won damn near every Rotax class ( and before that KT100 ) have always used Shell M.
As I understand it , Shell M is a modified castor base. Once they found out about my tests they started to sell 909 to their customers - its cleaner burning than the very old tech M and makes the same power.
Karting is probably the biggest 2T market for oil world wide , and again the Motul Kart GP is a modified castor ester base , whereas 800 is a pure synthetic.
Short story on oils is this .Doing a Falex test a castor based oil will slowly wear a smooth shiny groove in the test drum , and if the load is increased the oil breaks down into its
chemical components - but these are still very good lubricants and the smooth wear pattern continues , abiet at a faster rate.
A pure synthetic has a much higher film strength , and the load required to create wear on the test drum is many times higher , but the instant the film is penetrated the loaded ball
will start tearing away metal off the drum ie the oil when it breaks down is a non lubricant.
When I saw this testing paper I immediately started using Castrol A747 , the first castor based synthetic mixed oil. That was wonderfull stuff , probably still is , but I havnt seen it for a long time.
Motul 800 and Elf 976 both pure synth oils became popular when GP racing changed to non leaded petrol , that unlike 130 octain , made best power when on the rich side.
So lube failure due to excessive heat breakdown of the oil never happened.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Comparisons between pressure graphs at Ex port with Honda ATAC in opened and closed position. Certain rpm favorable for open position.
In opened position, little weaker and shorter at negative side ( purple ), weaker and longer at positive side ( yellow/green ).
In both ways helps to keep mix in cylinder at mid-range.
Found in the compartment of useful things, aka the car. It's still available here but also suffers from separation.
I´m running Shell Advance Racing M, blends perfect with alcoholfuel as methanol,ethanol,e85, also blends with petrol.
Some say it is out of production though?
Funny thing, dunno why.
But after a while depending on exposure to light, when blending in fuel it first becomes beige, later on it becomes purple.
Wob, Amazon have A747 in stock, checked this morning, for around £20 might be worth a modest investment. In addition thanks for all the great help and advice you have freely given over the years, without you, Frits and Jan we would all be far less informed, just to say thankyou seems poor reward!
Regards, Trevor
since weare discussing oils, don't know if it's available down under but since i use Putoline RS959, i haven't had any engine failure in 15 orso years. use it in my KR1S on the road and track, in my KDX200 and in my MX-mopeds.
I think this is the first can o worms topic I have seen on here. I suppose I will add to it. Redline 2t racing oil for the past several years without any issues.
P.S. How does my spark plug look? Not
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