ESE's works engine tuner

[Condyn]

The foredom motor just dangles above me. It is the hollow shaft in the hand piece that snaps where it sharply transitions to the tiny threaded end with no radius that screws into the gear in the grinders head. Partially my fault for getting wedged up in stupid places. Still, I do not care for the way that the hollow shaft was made.

[Tim Ey]

I had pretty much everything available in Europe...
Proxxon, Dremel, Foredom, JoKe....

Joke: not enough RPM

Foredome: the flexible shaft was not really flexible, the chuck was fitted with a cone and dropped from that connection ever 15 minutes.

Dremel and Proxxon: good rpm, but not enough torque.


Today, I am using this motor
https://www.zujeddeloh.de/produkte/g...00--_3103.html
(the shaft snaps right away... This sucks)

this handpiece for rough work
https://www.zujeddeloh.de/produkte/g...ng--_1470.html

an ebay find handpiece with 2.35 & 3.00mm chucks for fine work.

and for the fine in cylinder stuff a kavo 195 90° handpiece.

[TZ350]

https://youtu.be/977BWjCMC8E

https://youtu.be/mS0cyt7F9js

https://youtu.be/CLn4tsz8M1s




Flettners flying Gibs in action:- As I understand it, these are "Fly by Wire" activated and they are part of the face of the rotary valve cover and basically open/close the normally fixed aperture in a rotary valve cover. The idle circuit is a very small reed valve about the size of your thumb nail. The idle reed valve is adjusted by a screw that limits how much it can open.

[jfn2]

Condyn
When you say the motor just dangles above you how do you have it anchored or held above you. Is it just hanging on one of their holders or hanging by a nail or eye screw or wire?
I've had 3 of these handpieces and have never had any trouble. I bought my first one in 1972-3. I believe back then it was called a #57 handpiece. But I could be wrong. The one I have now was bought in 1993-4. In fact the one I have now is labeled ARTCO M-1036. Since then they have changed their numbers to 1039. I guess it's possible they cheapened up some of the components but the parts sheet for the 1039 is still the same as for the 1036 on ARTCO web page.
I have an old C.C. Specialty catalog (2009) and the parts sheet shows 2 shafts, one is a outer shaft called the 'Round Drive Shaft' and the inner shaft is called the 'Keyway Shaft'. Now I received this catalog in 2009 and the prices were Round Drive Shaft= $29.25, and the Keyway Shaft= $17.35. But like I said it's 10 years old. I don't know how much ARTCO wants but you could call.

[TZ350]

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Fixed verses Programable ignition. The Red line is a fixed timing KX80 ignition on my RG50. The Blue line is an optimized Ignitec programable ignition.

[philou]

do all ignitech p2 race have input for the deto sensor? or is it an option to add?

I use the Czech deto count recommended by wobbly

I can't find the information in the documentation

[F5 Dave]

It has an optional output on det counter from memory. Then you input that to ignitech and reduce ignition several degrees. Um, what's it called again? Bugger sorry too long ago.

[wobbly]

Yes the Czech deto module can output 0-5V for data logging and or drop an output to ground ,this wire is input to any Ignitech that when grounded
it will pull out any amount of programmed static advance ( say 3* ).
Only issue is you then have no record of it happening as the Ignition response is so fast you miss seeing the deto red light , but if you have it ,you will see close to 5V on the deto data stream.
Working backward you can then find the TPS and rpm where det was being corrected , and change the advance curve to eliminate the feedback control.

I asked Ignitech years ago to incorporate an auto curve correction , but for some reason they refuse to talk to me - even though I sold literally hundreds of the things and became an international
" help desk " for free. They still owe me 4 ignitions returned for repair over 3 years ago - and guess who had to replace the customers product . I refuse to even look at one now - Ignorant fucks.

[Muhr]

Does anyone think they have the best design

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=G8L9_XO3iCw

[HenkS]

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Fixed verses Programable ignition. The Red line is a fixed timing KX80 ignition on my RG50. The Blue line is an optimized Ignitec programable ignition.

May be the fixed one was not set at the right time.
At max power both should have the same pre ignition !
At lower speed the power is the same, which should be different in favor of the Ignitech progr.
This suggests that the fixed ignition was too late.

[F5 Dave]

Fixed in this case is not straight line so we have our definition aligned. Fixed TZ here means fixed curve, so could be retarding like heck after 11 or 12,000 for example which is fine a dirtbike perhaps but not on road race engines.

[Tim Ey]

I am using the Czech deto device on my RS250.
But I rather test this little bugger here: http://www.bylund-automotive.com/edu...ock/index.html
Has anyone played with it before?

@Muhr:
The bellmouth test is interesting - unfortunately, they mixed tuned inlet length variation and bellmouth variation. Which causes a shift in rpm range. To get the result which bellmouth is best, you need to vary the inlet length to reach the same rpm peak (since the tube end of a bellmouth is not easy to define).

[Flettner]

https://youtu.be/977BWjCMC8E

https://youtu.be/mS0cyt7F9js

https://youtu.be/CLn4tsz8M1s




Flettners flying Gibs in action:- As I understand it, these are "Fly by Wire" activated and they are part of the face of the rotary valve cover and basically open/close the normally fixed aperture in a rotary valve cover. The idle circuit is a very small reed valve about the size of your thumb nail. The idle reed valve is adjusted by a screw that limits how much it can open.

Goes on its first trail ride tomorrow, should be interesting.
Laptop all charged up. Ive mixed up 20L of E85, optimistic?
https://youtube.com/shorts/rxc1OFcQgPM?feature=share

[wobbly]

Tim , I have tested several LSU detectors , and have a 14 Point 7 one on my dyno that outputs Lambda and or 0-5V for logging and an on screen red warning.
The el cheapo Czech unit does a few things way better than anything else.
Its super simple to quickly rev your engine against some load - in gear brake on , load up with the clutch , and adjust the sensitivity to get all but the last led to light up.
Then on track the last red deto light is guaranteed to be a "real " harmful deto level.
Also the optional grounding output works perfectly with det retard on an Ignitech , and the 0-5v is simple to data log.

But , one thing to note ,only proper Lambda units like a 14 Point 7 or a Innovate LS2 do the required pre heating cycle on the Bosch 4.9 prior to applying power to the sensor.
As the unit you have shown is Arduino based then an led array and pre heat will all be possible - if the developer or someone else is competent enough to do the electronics and code.

[philou]

thanks wobbly for the connection indications