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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #36646
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  2. #36647
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    glad he's finally added a chain guard
    Patrick Owens
    www.OopsClunkThud.com

  3. #36648
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    12th March 2010 - 16:56
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    In door dyno soon, or at least an under cover one.
    A major step forward, dyno time, rain hail or shine and I can leave the bike set up for week or months if need be.
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  4. #36649
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    Quote Originally Posted by OopsClunkThud View Post
    glad he's finally added a chain guard
    Safety shmafety, .... 😁

  5. #36650
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    One thing i picked up from Allen Millyard videos is to put grinders and other dust makers out undercover out of the shop in a lean-to just like that.
    Also having it in a cell like that will mean you can potentially line it to keep the noise down for her indoors or them's next doors.
    or funnel it directly at the dude that mows his lawns at 7.30am on Sundays.
    Last edited by husaberg; 1st March 2022 at 17:50. Reason: paul brodie not millyard



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  6. #36651
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    Wood? Where did you get Wood from?


    But seriously, leave fire extinguisher by the exit door.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  7. #36652
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Wood? Where did you get Wood from?


    But seriously, leave fire extinguisher by the exit door.
    Dyno, I always have the extinguisher handy, I dont like sudden unexpected fires.

    Wood, yes harder to get these days. The 2 x 8 was dear enough, the poles I bought a couple of years ago on special, all keen and everything...... but nothing happened until now.
    Im looking forward to having the dyno set up properly and permantly, under cover.

  8. #36653
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    Changing engine output shaft axis of rotation through final drive system

    I'm working on varying snow bike layouts and engine architectures, some of which, the power being transmitted from the engine through a CVT system would need to change by 90 degrees in order to get the power from the shaft the driven clutch resides on to the driveshaft of the track. The two solutions I'm interested in are a pair of bevel gears and using a drive belt that changes the rotational axis of the shaft by 90 degrees. Power output is planned to be in the range of 160 - 240hp. I have zero experience with either type of drive and was wondering if anyone has technical expertise or reference material for either design approach? A twisted belt approach would be preferred since it would be cheaper and lighter to make, however, the bevel gear arrangement could also be made to work and may package better. I'm seeking a better understanding of the feasibility of the twisted belt and how to estimate power loss through each configuration.

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    Paul Olesen

  9. #36654
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    Quote Originally Posted by PVO View Post
    I'm working on varying snow bike layouts and engine architectures, some of which, the power being transmitted from the engine through a CVT system would need to change by 90 degrees in order to get the power from the shaft the driven clutch resides on to the driveshaft of the track. The two solutions I'm interested in are a pair of bevel gears and using a drive belt that changes the rotational axis of the shaft by 90 degrees. Power output is planned to be in the range of 160 - 240hp. I have zero experience with either type of drive and was wondering if anyone has technical expertise or reference material for either design approach? A twisted belt approach would be preferred since it would be cheaper and lighter to make, however, the bevel gear arrangement could also be made to work and may package better. I'm seeking a better understanding of the feasibility of the twisted belt and how to estimate power loss through each configuration.

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    Car diffs have bevel gears KISS.
    Slasher Mowers run space-efficient 90-degree boxes or just the gearing in the hp ranges you want.
    they will weigh more then the belt approach
    FleTtner designs and builds transmissions for Gyros
    For pre made and lightweight i would uses an output bevel gearbox of a CRV or smiiar FWD awd





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  10. #36655
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    put grinders and other dust makers out undercover out of the shop in a lean-to just like that.
    I can't do that yet, and any sort of partition means I can't handle full lengths of steel. It's a constant battle trying to keep grinding dust away from the machine shop area.
    It's surprisingly nasty shit, not just highly abrasive, it gets into anything electronic and kills it dead, cellphones included.

    New workshop on the way, will try to manage it better there. Big fuckoff suckymotor maybe.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  11. #36656
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    I can't do that yet, and any sort of partition means I can't handle full lengths of steel. It's a constant battle trying to keep grinding dust away from the machine shop area.
    It's surprisingly nasty shit, not just highly abrasive, it gets into anything electronic and kills it dead, cellphones included.

    New workshop on the way, will try to manage it better there. Big fuckoff suckymotor maybe.

    Other way around. Machinery area at a positive pressure, maybe 1 -2 psi above grinding/dusty area and the dust won't come in.
    That's the easiest way to do a clean room. Needs good doors though.

  12. #36657
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    Other way around. Machinery area at a positive pressure, maybe 1 -2 psi above grinding/dusty area and the dust won't come in.
    That's the easiest way to do a clean room. Needs good doors though.
    Over here in the west of Oz where the climate is relatively dry, approx 25% of all houses are fitted with an evaporative cooler, sometimes known as swampies Work reasonably well until it gets humid.
    Typically these, I think, are sized to provide around 30 air changes per room per hour. Something like this would be pretty useful to keep the m/c shop are cooled with, of course, sensible divisions and air paths.
    Dunno if ewe lot have them over the ditch.
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    "Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”

  13. #36658
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    I can't do that yet, and any sort of partition means I can't handle full lengths of steel. It's a constant battle trying to keep grinding dust away from the machine shop area.
    It's surprisingly nasty shit, not just highly abrasive, it gets into anything electronic and kills it dead, cellphones included.

    New workshop on the way, will try to manage it better there. Big fuckoff suckymotor maybe.
    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    Other way around. Machinery area at a positive pressure, maybe 1 -2 psi above grinding/dusty area and the dust won't come in.
    That's the easiest way to do a clean room. Needs good doors though.
    Sorry i said Milyards it was Paul brodie
    Who you will know of Greg but you might not have seen his videos.


    https://i.imgur.com/lgszxDb.mp4

    Quote Originally Posted by ken seeber View Post
    Over here in the west of Oz where the climate is relatively dry, approx 25% of all houses are fitted with an evaporative cooler, sometimes known as swampies Work reasonably well until it gets humid.
    Typically these, I think, are sized to provide around 30 air changes per room per hour. Something like this would be pretty useful to keep the m/c shop are cooled with, of course, sensible divisions and air paths.
    Dunno if ewe lot have them over the ditch.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    i thought the western oz way was to spray water direct on the tin roof. "redneck air con"
    We do that with dairy sheds of over here its 45c plus in the middle of summer at Cow height, on a 30-degree day as each Bovis is 2kw each and the uninsulated roof just seems to superheat it.

    ps a swampy just a water cooler Cupola?
    https://www.valleyforgecupolas.com/u...eb-20_orig.jpg



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  14. #36659
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    I Know its probably be done to death but I cant find it in here.
    I under stand squish should be set that the piston hit the head 1000 rpm higher than you will ever see. You cant deto whats not there right.
    What about squish band width/ratio. Is there a magic number that works best ? On a dome piston should you match the squish to the piston shape/dome with of course a small angle towards the combustion chamber. What should the angle be to over the piston angle
    thanks guys

  15. #36660
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    Quote Originally Posted by wax View Post
    I Know its probably be done to death but I cant find it in here.
    I under stand squish should be set that the piston hit the head 1000 rpm higher than you will ever see. You cant deto whats not there right.
    What about squish band width/ratio. Is there a magic number that works best ? On a dome piston should you match the squish to the piston shape/dome with of course a small angle towards the combustion chamber. What should the angle be to over the piston angle
    thanks guys
    A squish band area ratio of 50% is a good general value. Wobbly may be kind enough to explain in more detail why that percentage is smaller on engines with a fixed ignition timing.
    Forget about your 'small angle towards the combustion chamber'. The angle of the squish area should exactly match the piston crown, so use a domed squish band on a domed piston.

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