In order to avoid wear on the edge on the closing side of the crankcase, all our valves are designed with a "beak" on the outside diameter, which considerably improves the guiding of the valve when closing the hole.
Still in the spirit of completely removing this commitment, we have:
- Machined on both sides in contact with the valve, with APRILIA "style" grooves.
- Has a chemical nickel coating deposited, with quenching.
- Considerably lighten the hub and its nut, in steel.
- Use much stiffer carbon valves.
The problem is gone now.
In order to avoid wear on the edge on the closing side of the crankcase, all our valves are designed with a "beak" on the outside diameter, which considerably improves the guiding of the valve when closing the hole.
Still in the spirit of completely removing this commitment, we have:
- Machined on both sides in contact with the valve, with APRILIA "style" grooves.
- Has a chemical nickel coating deposited, with quenching.
- Considerably lighten the hub and its nut, in steel.
- Use much stiffer carbon valves.
The problem is gone now.
Francis.
Thanks for the helpful info Francis
I am working on a small 50cc, where I had the rotor cover cast, which was perhaps not so smart. Feels much easier to make disks for surface treatment (then you also get rid of the division between block halves). I bought materials for rotary valve a while ago, and then got the idea to make the cover in forged carbon fiber. So I bought material and we'll see how it goes.
No amount of experimentation can ever prove me right; a single experiment can prove me wrong.
Pay attention to the quality of the carbon fiber to manufacture the valve.
This result is obtained by assembling several layers with very fine mesh Rowing.
The final thickness is about 1mm
Pay attention to the quality of the carbon fiber to manufacture the valve.
This result is obtained by assembling several layers with very fine mesh Rowing.
The final thickness is about 1mm
Pay attention to the quality of the carbon fiber to manufacture the valve.
This result is obtained by assembling several layers with very fine mesh Rowing.
The final thickness is about 1mm
Knows very little about what is good but the one I bought is made of: 2 Layers of XPREG XC130 210g 1 Layer of XPREG XC130 450g
No amount of experimentation can ever prove me right; a single experiment can prove me wrong.
Thats why I use a steel disc valve. Would be nice to have a carbon disc that is ethanol compliant.
Found this when I searched before ..
”we wouldn’t suggest Epoxy Resins for lining a fuel tank. In general, epoxies have good resistance to petrol and many of the chemicals and additives found within pump fuel however the ethanol in fuel is known to cause problems over time and so specialist tank lining resins (often novalac vinylester based) should be used instead. One such product is GTS 1750 which is sold by Caswell Europe.”
Ok. Got the rotary valve Suzuki RG50 running tonight.
Blue line is the original piston port/reed setup. Red line is the exact same cylinder on the rotary valve bottom end, no other changes to ignition or jetting at this point.
I only managed one run before the ignition trigger fell off. Sort that tomorrow night.
The RV seems to rev way past the old piston port setup. Looks like the RV setup needs different jetting and maybe timing compared to the old piston port/reed engine.
Looking forward to doing some tuning tomorrow night. Very excited now that it actually runs.
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Originally Posted by fpayart
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