That sounds like a ridiculous pointless endeavour.
Which is right up my alley so I'll bookmark that to watch later.
That sounds like a ridiculous pointless endeavour.
Which is right up my alley so I'll bookmark that to watch later.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Heres my take. Engineer yourself to success rather than tune with your hands tied.
First thing I'd do is find a decent rodkit so you can spin it out to 13,000 peak with some over rev. You will likely need to bore the crank. Could even find some stroke there if there is room. That will change the ballgame.
That pipe looks like peak is well short of 11,000.
An ignitech will make revs possible.
A turbo booster water pump can be driven from 12v. Just do the head for ease at first. Cut the fins off and simple jacket. Can add barrel later with an external u tube if desired. Bit on back for decent reedblock. Pwk28 should be sufficient.
Build a pipe, you'll be at 25+ hp without must sophistication in the ports, but that should hit 100mph.
Starve son for 3-4 weeks and set him loose on a windless day.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Top-tips Dave - thanks
I'd rather do it without resorting to water cooling; however...
I've always thought Dynojet HP is a little higher than reality. Testing my R9T on two different Dynojet dynos v my own showed 13% more power with the dynojets so the 21.3 (ish) they got is nearer 19 hp if my Dyno is anywhere near correct.
Got a lead on a ignitech so one will be going on - the std ignition goes full retard about 6k from memory so.no use at all.
Crank wise I think I had a scour of the Grampians catalogue and couldn't find a compatable kit but will keep looking.
Will be an interesting way to spend some money and time...
Cheers
Dave
Would this ignition be any use? Use of Tuner Studio means you can create any ignition map you fancy. https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=596
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
Peter , the RSA had a case ratio down at 1.24 , due in part to the very long rod.
An RV loves a big case - reeds do not like anything below 1.3 as to run below that Helmholtz volume , the petals have to be too thin to work with it , and loose more power from lack of tip control than any gain seen
from the bigger case ratio.
Been there done that , as its real easy to simply add a reedblock spacer to gain case volume.
Adding a 5mm spacer took the engine under 1.3 and I spent a fortune in time and money trying to tune the reed frequency to suit.
Power rose as I went thinner ( or smaller backups ) , but it never came close in power to the original case and reed setup.
Just another free lunch in the bin.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
As we all know, RV is short for Reed Valve.
Joking apart, we must live with the fact that Rotary and Reed both start with the same letter. Those who know and love Wobbly, won't be fooled, but newcomers might become confused. Suggestions, anybody?
My stay in Germany has made me allergic to abbreviations. Germans love them, but their abbrevs make Google Translate burst into tears.
Can you imagine what KW stands for? Yes, that's what I thought too, until I found out that the Krauts also use it as an abbreviation for Kurbelwelle (=crankshaft).
This can lead to hilarious technical discussions where one half gets the impression that the other half has been testing too much ethanol.
Italians love abbrevs as well. I have enough of the lingo to be able to guess right most of the times (and so will Wobbly by now, I suppose) but think of all those forum visitors who are relying on Google Translate. That is why I prefer to write my texts in full instead of full of abbreviations.
Google translate, translated "rv" by "camping car" in French
What about rotary valve?
This looks like desperatinon to me. Should have come further nowadays
No amount of experimentation can ever prove me right; a single experiment can prove me wrong.
Sorry Frits , its just habit me saying RV for a Rotary Valve , and simply Reed for the other. Disc Valve seems good but then DV wont translate well either I would imagine.
Looking at that dyno graph with temps in the mid 20*C gets up my nose as I am struggling with breaking double digits at the moment.
I have been meaning to ask on here for a while now , are there any newer , better correction factor systems that have been published.
The one I have been using forever is SAE J1349 and with an ambient temp difference of say 5*C ( eg 12 * to 17 * ) the correction is nowhere near close enough.
Anyone got some help here , as even trying the DIN , JIS and ISO corrections in the software im still way off.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
You may have to work out your own. Based on experience.
May i suggest WTFF for a name - Wob's temperature fudge factor.
There are currently 13 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 13 guests)
Bookmarks