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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #37531
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    Patrick, Im confused by this. The only relevant Blair Equations I'm aware of are those in the pic, Where it is clear that they both use the same form, Only Frits have the constant 88, up ~5% from Blair's 83.3. If anything Frits' pipes would be slightly longer. On the other hand Blair suggests a higher higher starting point regarding speed of sound:557-592m/s.
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  2. #37532
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    Quote Originally Posted by andreas View Post
    Patrick, Im confused by this. The only relevant Blair Equations I'm aware of are those in the pic, Where it is clear that they both use the same form, Only Frits have the constant 88, up ~5% from Blair's 83.3. If anything Frits' pipes would be slightly longer. On the other hand Blair suggests a higher higher starting point regarding speed of sound:557-592m/s.
    Two comments:

    1. Blair recommends the temperatures for engines below 5bmep, industrial type engines, tuned pipes with engines with a bmep of 10 and higher has a lot of short circuited gas in it and runs at a lower temperature;

    2. The gamma value for exhaust gas is ~1.3 and the R value ~300.

    All this means that the average wave speed can have a large difference depending on your engine.

  3. #37533
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    Vannik,
    The 5 bar engine temperature range showing in the text is not what I used to calculate the speed of sound, later in this chapter he mention engines with 10 or more bar, where enduro type~500 and race ~600*C.
    The equation, I understand, with those gamma and R numbers is what he considers "universal" in a two stroke pipe?
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  4. #37534
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    The SA500 engine was used in the Pulse and I rebuilt the one that Bill has when it first arrived in NZ..

    The reeds were very small .
    Hello,

    do you have more information about the valves for SA500 ? Pictures ?

  5. #37535
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    Merry Christmas to everyone

  6. #37536
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    Quote Originally Posted by andreas View Post
    Patrick, Im confused by this. The only relevant Blair Equations I'm aware of are those in the pic, Where it is clear that they both use the same form, Only Frits have the constant 88, up ~5% from Blair's 83.3. If anything Frits' pipes would be slightly longer. On the other hand Blair suggests a higher higher starting point regarding speed of sound:557-592m/s.
    As i´m not the mathmatical wonderboy i need to ask my friend, but i think Vannik´s answer says it all

  7. #37537
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    It's high school stuff, Mandatory you know. As for Blair- He said excactly what I said he did.

  8. #37538
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    Andreas , I hope you spend at least some time doing weld practice during the holidays , there is enough bird shit in that picture to start an albatross colony.
    This is the sort of thing that is just as easy to do as your version.
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    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  9. #37539
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    Andreas , I hope you spend at least some time doing weld practice during the holidays , there is enough bird shit in that picture to start an albatross colony.
    Man, have you got a way with words. And your way with a welding torch is not too bad either .

  10. #37540
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    Andreas , I hope you spend at least some time doing weld practice during the holidays , there is enough bird shit in that picture to start an albatross colony.
    This is the sort of thing that is just as easy to do as your version.
    Woobly I just bought myself a miller tig welder (syncrowave 210) among other things to weld my tune pipe.
    Do you want to share your experience to weld the tune pipe with a tig?
    -Sheet thickness
    -amperage
    - tungsten angle etc...

    It would be really appreciated to point me in the right direction.
    thank you

  11. #37541
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    I actually prefer gas welding to tig as its easy to make nice welds with it using a tiny torch , but oxy/acetylene is stupidly expensive and quite a bit slower in weld speed.
    Tig setting depends upon the weld speed , and this all comes down to using a rotator jig - shit cheap Chinese things work well , and I disassembled it and simply the clamped the lid to my bench edge so my legs fit under it ,
    with the speed control box on the bench in easy reach. The 24V DC motors are cheap as in various speeds ,
    depending upon the units gear ratio you have. The original 40 rpm motor had to be turned almost off for me to keep up , and at that setting it had no torque at all - 10 rpm is Jack the Bear.
    It has a small 3 jaw with 3 vertical finger spring loaded swiveling hooks about 250 high - I saw this idea on YouTube used by some Asian dudes - they had a huge old 3 jaw most of the pipe would fit inside , my next mod.
    But then having built literally thousands of pipes , yes im sick of that shit now - sitting back with a real coffee looking at an EngMod monitor makes me fatter and richer , sounds perfect.

    The material thickness is almost always 0.8mm = 22g as this is the minimum allowed by CIK , but if you want to get trick shit make the header and tailcone from 0.6 and pretend you work for HRC or the Yamaha race dept.
    Cold Rolled Sheet is the go , but the quality varies alot , so shop around till you find a supplier with the sheet that doesnt have sparks ie crap in the material shooting out of the weld puddle.
    With my welder , a Genesis 150 the setting is near 3 to 4X the material thickness ie 0.8 = 24 to 32Amps , less amps for hand rolling and 30 + for when using the rotator.
    I use 0.8 tungsten with a long sharp taper and always grind down the taper as this concentrates the HAZ.
    When on the rotator I use pulse , near 4/sec as this gives the nice looking scallop effect , but usually I simply cycle the on/off torch button when doing freehand.
    I have a hideously expensive thumb wheel on the torch , its way too slow to be effective , but my legs are slower so no foot pedal for me sadly.

    One cool trick is to use 0.5mm MIG wire as a filler , it costs nothing and only transfers a tiny amount into a hole , burnt by some idiot not concentrating.

    Probably most important is using a quite large gas lens - 16mm min as this has way better gas coverage over the molten , and cooling puddle.
    I angle the torch back about 30* from the arc and move forward over the weld pool , using the minimum gas flow ( 3 somethings ) I can get away with without sparking or contamination.

    Stainless is a bitch , as you must fully back purge , and without a foot amps control its very hard for me , but yea it can be done nicely with practice.
    The pic shows the difference between a rotator fusion weld Vs manual with filler rod.
    The one on the right has no filler , but is simply melting the stinger nozzle edge into the tailcone surface.
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    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  12. #37542
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    Perfect .
    When gas welding what nozzle number do you use?

  13. #37543
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    Gobbledegookkkkkkkkkk - Just writing 4 isnt allowed
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  14. #37544
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    I will start by making tune pipe in my garage and then I will pretend that I work at HRC.
    Thank you very much it is appreciated Woobly.

  15. #37545
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    Good luck getting consistent steel from any instant quote online laser company. Sometimes you can see a fizzle of schmoo out in front of the weld puddle despite your best cleaning efforts.

    For gas welding I use a smith airliner torch with a size zero tip. Dual stage regulators about 4 psi acetylene 10 psi oxygen.

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