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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #37666
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wos View Post
    Think you should avoid smallest scratch going directly from inside to outside. Hard to recognize on a photo. Wolfgang
    When I lift the barrel I will check. Thanks for the tip.

    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    So even if your new top surface was flat, is there any chance that tightening the head bolts could have distorted the plate to allow leakage?
    Another thing I did not think of. I suppose it is possible. Next time its running hard on the dyno I will see if I can tell which side of the spacer plate is leaking.

  2. #37667
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Just test it Rob. A bicycle pump, a few fittings and some soapy water will tell you all you need to know pretty quick.

    Exhaust can be most difficult to plug unless it has a bolt up flange. Then it's just flat plate with some rubber.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  3. #37668
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    .
    Attachment 352202

    More problems with the Kawasaki. It is leaking around the base of the cylinder. To much oil to ignore.

    To get the 250 barrel of choice to fit I had to fit a spacer plate. I glued and screwed it down to the case.

    Then milled it off square and flat.

    The joint now leaks, I am not sure if its the spacer to case joint or spacer to cylinder joint leaking.

    Or worse, the studs are pulling loose in the case.
    Rob, although you may have a gasket above the split spacers, and a layer of glue under them, there are still two tiny tunnels through the joints between the two spacers, at both front and rear.
    The roof of each tunnel is the upper gasket, the floor is the glue under the plates.
    Although you have the plates as close as possible, the tunnels will still be there, and when bolted down, may become big enough to leak oil out and air in.

    Another possibility is that the glue under the spacer plates has deteriorated to allow leaking.

  4. #37669
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    Quote Originally Posted by lodgernz View Post

    Another possibility is that the glue under the spacer plates has deteriorated to allow leaking.
    This is actually very likely. A lot of epoxies don't do well around ethanol.

  5. #37670
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
    I cannot speak for you Skako, but me, I am constantly held back by the limits of my knowledge. Whatever its depth, it will never be enough.
    What has age got to do with it? I believe that the moment you decide that enough is enough, that's the moment you are old, regardless of your physical age.
    Me, I'd like to keep struggling on for a while

    "my aim is to die young as late as possible"

  6. #37671
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    .

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Well, I may have found the cause of the cylinder base leak. Loose cylinder base nuts.

    I had used fancy serrated nuts thinking they would lock when tightened up.

    But all they did was with all the vibration they ate away at the cylinder base allowing the nut to loosen off.

    They were less than finger tight when I checked them. Hopefully its just a loose nut and not the stud pulling out of the case.

    Hopefully the resulting leak has not allowed methanol to damage the spacer plate glue.

  7. #37672
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    .

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Well, I may have found the cause of the cylinder base leak. Loose cylinder base nuts.

    I had used fancy serrated nuts thinking they would lock when tightened up.

    But all they did was with all the vibration they ate away at the cylinder base allowing the nut to loosen off.

    They were less than finger tight when I checked them. Hopefully its just a loose nut and not the stud pulling out of the case.

    Hopefully the resulting leak has not allowed methanol to damage the spacer plate glue.
    You may have to do double nuts on the base studs, if the Serrated nuts are not working.
    Compare Pornography now to 50 years ago.
    Then extrapolate 50 years into the future.
    . . . That shit's Nasty.

  8. #37673
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    .

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Well, I may have found the cause of the cylinder base leak. Loose cylinder base nuts.

    I had used fancy serrated nuts thinking they would lock when tightened up.

    But all they did was with all the vibration they ate away at the cylinder base allowing the nut to loosen off.

    They were less than finger tight when I checked them. Hopefully its just a loose nut and not the stud pulling out of the case.

    Hopefully the resulting leak has not allowed methanol to damage the spacer plate glue.
    Of all the things my F9 did to itself, that wasn't one of them. Dont actually recall the engine vibrated that badly, but that could have been due to the massive magneto rotor.
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  9. #37674
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    Use what are sold as cone nuts. Self lockers with the insert metal instead of nylon. They'll take high temps where nylocs won't.

    All self- locking nuts are single use of course.

  10. #37675
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    .

    Well, I may have found the cause of the cylinder base leak. Loose cylinder base nuts.

    I had used fancy serrated nuts thinking they would lock when tightened up.

    But all they did was with all the vibration they ate away at the cylinder base allowing the nut to loosen off.
    https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/washe...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Haven't used these for your particular application, but they work better than anything else in most situations.

    The only thing I don't like about them is they feel disturbingly like a thread is stripping when you undo the nut. Which isn't the case, it's just creepy.

    PS: I'd be using a standard flat washer under those in that case.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  11. #37676
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/washe...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Haven't used these for your particular application, but they work better than anything else in most situations.

    The only thing I don't like about them is they feel disturbingly like a thread is stripping when you undo the nut. Which isn't the case, it's just creepy.

    PS: I'd be using a standard flat washer under those in that case.
    This is probably your best way to go as there is probably is not enough room for double nutting the stud's.
    Compare Pornography now to 50 years ago.
    Then extrapolate 50 years into the future.
    . . . That shit's Nasty.

  12. #37677
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    2Stroke Stuffing having more success with a conventional engine.

  13. #37678
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    PS: I'd be using a standard flat washer under those in that case.
    Actually, maybe not. It would allow the lock washers to turn....

    They've worked well for me in lots of problem situations, but I've never used them on alloy surfaces where their gripping surfaces may brunel the alloy. I see you can get wider versions, though. May be worth reading their literature.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  14. #37679
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    .

    This is where I started with the Pre 72 Classic Racer project. And some great help from Flettner.

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    That frame and one of those crusty cases and the old side covers became key parts used in the rebuilt bike.

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    I might be having a few teething problems but it will all work out I am sure.

  15. #37680
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