Getting the cc correct has nothing to do with the equipment , just your patience.
Spinning the chamber in a battery drill would do , as using 80 grit emery cloth under your finger ( form tool No1 ) you can easily remove 0.05cc at a time by polishing alone.
And as an aside to all this talk of compression , and the looming threat of detonation - fuel quality is , in racing , of utmost importance.
As I tell every customer I have in karting or track racebikes , if you leave 98 pump fuel in a 1/2 empty drum , or in a vented tank overnight - its fucked the next day.
Its now 91 if you are lucky , as every time the lid is removed all the light front ends evaporate to atmosphere.
The Reid Vapor Pressure has dropped thru the floor , and this results in huge un atomized raw fuel droplets entering the engine.
These do not burn during combustion , and the tune appears rich on the piston and the egt, so you naturally lean it down and bang - siezure or deto.
Thus all race fuel should be bought or immediately decanted into 5L containers , with no airspace , and only one mixed and used at a time.
Absolutely vital if you are reading a weather gauge ( your phone App and the local airport ) and have jetting records based on RAD or Density Altitude.
So yes a 250MX will be happy with 12:1 but not on 91 fuel thats been in the tank for 3 weeks.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
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