Cheers some odd spacings put might be the go for a smaller cadge as o hasroom for redrilling
http://www.transcanimports.com/downl...%20Flanges.pdf
https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/...ormation-page/
http://jbmindustries.com/MZ_Socket_Boot.html
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Did a ton of dyno tests on the RS125/CR125 cage and stuffers as they fitted the TM 125MX when we had 125 National in karts ( bike engines only )
The best manifold by far was the NX4 - 000 but that has been NLA for years.
The 780 is the later model RS125 but its way too long
The angled one looses 2 Hp.
EDIT - re the reed stuffer venturi - I have no idea what would work better in your case , best to have a go with varying sizes.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Tried getting a little more power from a tm mx 125 a while ago.
Where I have experienced that the most limiting thing is intake/reed.
I tried these Vforce 3,4 and 4r without any results worth mentioning.
Did as below in the end, which made a big difference for us. (from a 144cc kz kit)
No amount of experimentation can ever prove me right; a single experiment can prove me wrong.
Muhr - not knowing what the OE setup looks like, what are the changes ? Spacer or venturi at the entry point ?
Is the angled entry a factor ?
thanks
Yep , the VF2 ( original bolted together assembly ) was far superior to the later VF versions on the TM 125MX.
I think the KTM had it from the factory.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Unfortunately, nothing I've tested. I also can't say that it was reed it self or an increase in crankcase volume, or maybe both. But there was a big difference
So this is the OG? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/332619174160...gAAOSwmWVaz-nT
No amount of experimentation can ever prove me right; a single experiment can prove me wrong.
hello muhr, i've seen your 50cc project while reading some pages back.. have you finally tried it? that looked nasty.
amazing quality. have you also experienced an improvement restricting the internal cross section instead of maintaining the carb exit cross section?
Have you tested different lenghts for the horizontal splitter? i see that this goes all the way from the base to the top of the cusp.
I even saw someone on the dutch forum (deraceheldenvanweleer.nl) hypothesizing a manifold with a continuation of the splitter, but i can't find any feedback on that.
Your 1/2 moon fillers look really nice , but I now make them with no step up to the petal seal surface on the sides.
This does not apply to the end of the splitter at the reed tips , a right angle step here , on the flow bench lifts the petals higher and faster - resulting in more power on the dyno as well.
Completely counter intuitive to having a triangle divider under the petal tips - but hey its a 2T so reality doesn't match anyone's pre conceived ideas.
Also the splitter is shortened , it starts where the venturi ends , further in from the block entry face.
As we also bias the flow upward toward the piston by having asymmetric reed backups , im about to try moving the front edge of the airfoil splitter downward , too force more flow into the top pair of reed block ports.
Edit - the guys who make the UFO for Mikuni round slides also make a short splitter that divides the carb exit in 1/2 at the engine side of the slide.
This gives way better response at low throttle openings - so the idea could be extended so the reed splitter is continuous right up to the throttle slide - maybe ?
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
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F81M balance factor post 2.
Ok, I see why the F81M vibrated like a basted. I had machined away so much of the counter weight there is negative balance factor.
I hung 50% of the reciprocating weight on the rod and added extra counter weight until it all balanced out.
So if I have got this right. I need to add 227g to the counter weight to achieve a balance factor of 50%.
Can't help you there but your gudgeon pin looks dreadful. Hope that's an old scrap one.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
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