TIG welding the Mallory to the wheel is easy , even Flet could do it without a microscope.
Re questions - the 100cc engines when you really lean ( yea jetting too ) on them always had issues locking up pistons.
But not bearings flying apart due to 20,000 rpm. Thus as long as you dont lean it down and are looking to extend life I would use a full synthetic like 800 simply due to the film strength.
Using Maxima 927 or Elf 909 which is what they would normally use ( R is bloody old hat now ) is only needed if it gets real hot.
In the Timken/Falex oil test machine a castor has bugger all film strength but has a lovely smooth wear pattern , a synthetic has well over 10 times the load capability , but the instant it is abused it breaks down into non lubricating
components.
Castor base , even when smoking up on the machine still lubricates the wear surfaces - the synthetic causes metal to tear off due to micro welding.
Re the TM head insert - I dont think this is covered by an NDA so here you are.
This idea makes more power - simple. The reason is that a hot combustion chamber surface has less temp delta with the burning combustion gas , thus conducts less of the finite fuel energy
away into the water. The squish band is closer to water thus stays cooler to help retard deto.
The only down side is the plug threads are hot as well , but in this case due to the straight line ignition we are deto limited in the squish , not limited by overheating the plug body and thus punching holes
in pistons due to pre ignition.
If you really wanted to get trick , put a clear ceramic on the combustion chamber surface only - ceramic is illegal , but hey you cant tech what you cant see.
I have tested super trick chambers that cooled the squish , and the plug , no dramatic advantage sadly.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
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