A picture of the rectifier/regulator TeeZee's using.........
Then to avoid over voltage on the IgniTech it might be possible to build a 15Vdc Voltage maintenance generator for supporting but not recharging a 14.5V battery drill battery. That way a lot of the running power is supplied by the generator and the battery is there for starting and slow running, but has to be re-charged between race days.
Interesting posts about voltages etc for the generators, thanks, some good ideas there and I feel pretty confident now about us having another go at NedKellys generator and the four pole one for myself.
These lead-acid-gel batteries seem to work well in the Honda 125T's and other 4-Strokes at Mt Welly, but we had nothing but failures with them.
Often a brand new one would crap out quickly during the day, when at 7Amp Hours it should have lasted all day.
When we got them home they would be completely dead and unable to be re-charged, so had broken down inside somehow. Maybe it was something to do with the 2-Strokers vibration. Don't know for sure, but that is the reason we went to 14,5V battery drill batteries.
Does any one know of a better style of 12V battery to use?
Vibration kills batteries, although if the batter box is either rubber mounted or has enough room to fit something inside it to isolate the battery from vibration it normally fixes the problem
Way back in medieval bucket racing times (pre FXR) we saw a few problems using gel cell when they weren't isolated from vibration
I didn't ever have a problem using a standard lead/acid but there are far better options than those available now
the club bike (slightly different as its a FXR) has the battery mounted on a decent sized chunk of foam and held in place with a rubber strap, I initially thought it was just to stop it rattling around but would kill any vibration rather effectively too.
3 cell Lithium Polymer batteries (11.1 volts discharged. 12.'something' charged.) Cheap as chips from Hobbyking and weigh bugger all. Would have no problem with vibration (made for rc vehicles)
However you would be hard pushed to find one at 7AH, they require a special charger and have a bad habit of exploding if charged wrong.
Perhaps 3 of these?:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8932
And change when necessary.
And a charger:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8247
Shipping might bite yah...
Just a thought really.
I going to try this out to run my shift light. I found four 1AH versions still in their box on a shelf from a forgotten project.![]()
Thanks for the tip Moooools ......... But.....
Lithium cells must be charged very differently than NiCad or NiMH. They require a special charger specifically designed to charge lithium cells. Failure to do this can cause the battery to spew violent flames. There have been many fires directly caused by lithium batteries. PLEASE BE RESPONSIBLE when charging lithium batteries.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209187
I might be better sticking with something simpler........ still I like a challange.
I always thought Li batteries had circuits built in to balance the voltage of the cells and to monitor battery temp and charge and discharge rates. You most certainly cannot just plug them in to some power supply and walk away.
Meh. So long as you use the correct charger, such as the one I linked, you probably wouldn't have any problems. They aren't particularly perfect for the application on that front though.
I have only had two explode violently.(But that was when someone decided to secure them in a box with expanding foam)...
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