Have you polished the crank seals and the Primary drive nut?
Have you polished the crank seals and the Primary drive nut?
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
2Stroke Stuffing. Polishing crankshaft seals.
Making progress, a solid 40rwhp from a 1970's 250 single.
Trying to setup the carburetor jetting from scratch is challenging. Without any petrol base line to work from it is all trial and error finding the right ignition and jet combo for methanol.
I re checked the Ignitec and trigger setup. Now the ignition timing graph is much more sensible and in line with what some other people with methanol experience have told me to expect.
But the engine has been running on at the end of a dyno pull. It just wont shut off but keeps running on. It seems to be glow plugging on NGK BR10EG's.
Enriching up results in more sever running on. I guess the richer it is, the colder it is and less of the fuel is evaporating which results in the mixture going leaner. The plug or its earth strap could also be running too hot.
More work tomorrow, slowly reducing the main jet and maybe adding a dash of Acetone to help ward of Methanol's tendency to auto ignition.
Enriching resulting in going leaner does not sound very likely to me. Neither does glowplugging on NGK 10-plugs, although I cannot exclude it.
Bringing coolant close to the plug threads has solved some problems in the Aprilia racing engines. Increasing the coolant circulation speed and lowering its temperature should help. And you might try a surface discharge plug; that would definitely exclude glowplugging.
But I rather suspect you are experiencing HCCI: Homogeneous Charge Compression Ignition. Lowering the compression ratio (how high is it now?) could give a clue. It may decrease engine power but increase your knowledge.
One way of inducing HCCI is pre-heating the combustible mixture using EGR, which normally stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation, but in two-strokes comes down to Exhaus Gas Retention. From a certain rpm onward the blowdown time.area becomes insufficient and exhaust gas that has not had the time to leave the premises heats up the fresh mixture. Too small an end cone restrictor or silencer could be a culprit as well.
If you are willing to sacrifice a piston, you can file 1 mm off the edge that controls the exhaust timing while avoiding to touch the parts of the edge that control the transfer timing. This will increase the blowdown angle.area sufficiently to give an indication whether that was the problem.
Didn't think of that. Makes sense; thank you Neels.
Now that you remind me, restricting the flow to the float bowl used to be a trick in the 100cc direct-drive kart era to automatically lean the mixture when running WOT on the straight, to wring some extra revs out of the engine. Quite risky....
Frits , TeeZee's thing is aircooled , that is the real reason for the jungle juice.
I found years ago that when really pushing an aircooled and using rich mixtures to keep the cylinder cool , an 11 plug was needed.
Never thought of a surface discharge - would probably work well with dual Ignitech CDI into the Crane coil.
Also had the issue Neels came up with , the only way to keep the bowl full was to use a 4.5mm Dellorto methanol specific float valve.
And yes Frits , the drivers back then were well versed in running very lean at WOT then semi choking the carb for the last 1/3 of the straights.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
HCCI sounds possible. Single Ex opens 80 deg ATDC and is 72% wide. Not keen on going any more than that. Maybe time for that triple exhaust port modification I have in mind. A very cunning plan. The end cone restrictor is 32mm sure looks big enough but I will re visit that.
From memory, the compression ratio is 14:1 swept on a 70mm bore, 45% squish at 0.9mm clearance.
The float valve holder in the 38mm Mikuni round slide carb on my jawa speedway bike had a horizontal cut (1 - 1.5mm wide) just below where the float valve seated. Allowed the fuel (Methanol) straight into the bowl as soon as the valve was of its seat, rather than having to get past the sides of the valve.
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
Mk1 Amal concentric alcohol float bowls have the same thing - a slot just up from the needle seat about 2mm deep and around 1/3 of the circumference of the needle housing. They also have large 3 sided float needles running in a bore about 9mm ID, Actual bore of the orifice is probably 4mm.
If all else fails you could always pressure feed the carb. It violates KISS - but if it works...
3.5mm is too small even if its modified , and I never could get drilled seats to seal.
The Dellorto seat is the same sort of shape - you can modify the carb body to use that.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Pretty sure Neil made a lake injector they had no float bowl. pre 1970 so legit for class
or here is an aussuie moded concentric on an alcohol hardlet classic racer with a concentric amal with a flat bowl off a strongberg carb from a valiant.
the other mod that might help
https://thunderproducts.com/product/...bowl-extender/
Also make sure your needle jet is big enough as per one of the first posts in the tread
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
At the two minute seventeen second mark, 350 Bighorn with Lake Injector, E85. The only day I got it to run nice, won its class. I still have the Lake Injector under the bench somewhere. I moved on to electronic injection after this, all hidden inside, no one knew.
https://youtu.be/7CSXHo3jLVc
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