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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #3796
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    7th September 2009 - 09:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moooools View Post
    Ahhhhhhhhhhh yeeesss. Would you find it less ridiculous if I told you it was an in-helmet shift light?
    Probably not.

    My shift points were when it ran out of power- goes flat time to change gear.
    Good on you for getting it to work though.
    Do you think it helps or is it just 'bling'?

  2. #3797
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Rev it till a rod makes an appearance out of the cases & then shift up.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  3. #3798
    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    Probably not.

    My shift points were when it ran out of power- goes flat time to change gear.
    Good on you for getting it to work though.
    Do you think it helps or is it just 'bling'?
    I have yet to test the light on the track, but it is more to stop me over revving it and dropping a valve. Which apparently the CB 125T has a habit of doing at high RPM.

    I don't really have an ear for the four stroke, so the shift light will come on at the right RPM to shift and then turn off at the redline.

  4. #3799
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    4th January 2009 - 21:08
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moooools View Post
    I have yet to test the light on the track, but it is more to stop me over revving it and dropping a valve. Which apparently the CB 125T has a habit of doing at high RPM.

    I don't really have an ear for the four stroke, so the shift light will come on at the right RPM to shift and then turn off at the redline.
    A rev limiter would have the job done and dusted before you even realised the shift light had come on, Zeeltronics and ignitechs have them ,
    My neighbours diary says I have boundary issues

  5. #3800
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moooools View Post
    I have yet to test the light on the track, but it is more to stop me over revving it and dropping a valve. Which apparently the CB 125T has a habit of doing at high RPM.
    Don't tell John Connor or Gaz or Manwell or Karl about 125Ts dropping valves. They'll injure themselves laughing. Even with John's "sprint" cam in the engines I don't think it's been a problem. I think a rocker or two may have been broken on the dyno but that's about it. That's with the FZR or GSXR ignitions as well so effectively no rev limit.

  6. #3801
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moooools View Post
    I have yet to test the light on the track, but it is more to stop me over revving it and dropping a valve. Which apparently the CB 125T has a habit of doing at high RPM.

    I don't really have an ear for the four stroke, so the shift light will come on at the right RPM to shift and then turn off at the redline.
    Ahhhh didn't know it was a coal burner. Now the shift light makes sense.

  7. #3802
    Quote Originally Posted by speedpro View Post
    Don't tell John Connor or Gaz or Manwell or Karl about 125Ts dropping valves. They'll injure themselves laughing. Even with John's "sprint" cam in the engines I don't think it's been a problem. I think a rocker or two may have been broken on the dyno but that's about it. That's with the FZR or GSXR ignitions as well so effectively no rev limit.
    For reals? Craig (down here in welly) told me otherwise, and has been running these engines for a while. Meh, everyone has a different experience I guess.

    As for the man who suggested a rev-limiter instead; the shift light could be turned into a rev limiter in about 30 minutes. Just a matter of putting the pickup wires through the NC points on the relay, or the killswitch through the NO points.

    But the dual purpose light seems like a nice thing to have.

  8. #3803
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Take 45 min & create a soft turn off for the injectors to cyl 1 & then cyl 2 a couple of hundred rpm later, followed by an ign cut.

    Glad to be of service.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  9. #3804
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    17th February 2008 - 17:10
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Take 45 min & create a soft turn off for the injectors to cyl 1 & then cyl 2 a couple of hundred rpm later, followed by an ign cut.

    Glad to be of service.

    talk about getting off topic
    first it's a shift light
    then it's a coal burner
    where the hell is the prep for Taupo gone
    "Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
    “Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know.” - Cullen Hightower

  10. #3805
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    That is a worry. 4-stroke talk in the ESE thread. A moderator should have stepped in by now.

  11. #3806
    I was going to act like it was a two stroke. But all of these pressuring questions got the better of me, and it just slipped out..

  12. #3807
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    26th April 2006 - 12:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moooools View Post
    and it just slipped out..
    I hate when that happens...
    Heinz Varieties

  13. #3808
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Sturdier under garments?
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  14. #3809
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    30th September 2008 - 09:31
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    .......chamfered the ports before gluing up the transfer porting mistakes, actually over cutting the transfers and then gluing them back up turns out to be a real easy way to get a smooth symmetrical port. I had mistakenly cut the ports so they opened 110deg ATDC when I really wanted 116........
    TeeZee has me looking at gluing up the transfer ports on His 30hp cylinder, He wants the timing changed and the port entry area reduced to 1.2 the area of the windows like Wobbly suggested.

    These are pics of of the first cylinder where he glued up the transfers to change the timing.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #3810
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    So you are making the A port roof axial around 25*, the B port should be around 8*, the boost port around 55*.
    Then fill the A port duct inner wall to reduce the duct entry area, looking at it , the outer wall would work better if it was filled, but then the case would need doing as well.
    This then gives you Aprilia type GP scavenging,next step is dropping the A port to enable really big Ex aux port area.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

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