Hi Together,
This is the original works shape of disc valve inlet duct. Oval like a egg.
Isnt it better to open and close suddenly? Like i sketched on the housing?
Merci danke thanks..
Wolfgang
Hi Together,
This is the original works shape of disc valve inlet duct. Oval like a egg.
Isnt it better to open and close suddenly? Like i sketched on the housing?
Merci danke thanks..
Wolfgang
Hi Together,
This is the original works shape of disc valve inlet duct. Oval like a egg.
Isnt it better to open and close suddenly? Like i sketched on the housing?
Merci danke thanks..
Wolfgang
That shape gives the max intake area if that is needed , but the disc closing edge badly wears the case.
This is due to the fast air column pressing on the shutting area.
To fix this you need the closing edge on the disc angled forward so that the outer radius keep longer contact with the case surface.
I will find a picture and post it.
This configuration has no effect on power with the same closing timing.
The best shape is to reduce the boss diameter on the disc and have the longest width on crank centerline - and or increase the disc diameter.
This reduces the port width and gives greater STA for the same timings.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Ok wobbly...if we need ...top answer!
Think wee need quick force on mass in rotax dammed snorkel??...and maybe a softer closing could be have two positiv effects...more guidance...and a lower/ softer...time shifted...bounce
Back of the mass in snorkel?...
Thank you very much !!
Grüße
from disc valve beginner Wolfgang
Dont even think about damn snorkels , its not physically possible to make a RV intake too short using a normal carb even with Frits insert O Ring idea.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Good morning wobb and tz
Thanks for tips and warnings
I know frits idea with a kind off "guidance bar". Is it that what you call o-ring?
We have a enduro. Boots of rider aside motor covers...no space to mont carb on disc cover directly
But we are talking about low revs for enduro use... a overrev to 10500..11000 ...
Am i wrong with my theory, that faster opening helps to accelerate mass quicker in fucking longmissconstruction
to fill crankcase faster??
Thanks for your help and advice
Grüße Wolfgang
Very short frits... top...thank you
Clutch cover...disc side has height of 85 mm... mikuni 34 about 78 length...6 mm for gap between airbox and carb to breeth... have calculated this
Its possible...
But need to cut off part clutch cover...do oilsealing it...its of Magnesium...do complete new channel to airbox...all bullet proof to airbox ... folks... sorry not this winter
Have patience with us please
And let me please ask if it would help open suddenly...
Grüße Wolfgang
Short answer about the angled straight sided port , yes it does make a little more power .
I tested all this at ZipKart when the 256 first came out - dozens of valve opening and closing shapes and must of been a hundred timing combinations.
Once we had the straight port sides we couldnt go back , but even with the angled closing side on the valve it never really solved the wear issue.
Not worth the small increase in power in my opinion.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Hey wobb...thank you
Be sure that we have things in mind that are worth to do
Lite piston
Welding head to built a squish area
Reduce ex duct
Changing transfers to more upward
Max ex duct to 70 percent and 30 blowdown
New nikasil coating
Build a pipe
Programming a ignition curve
A lot to do as we only meet every possibe friday:cheers:
Viele Grüße to all
Wolfgang
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For something different. The dyno drum had become worn smooth allowing the bikes wheel to spin up more easily than it should.
It had been a problem for a while. Taking the drum out and re knurling it seemed like an impossible task.
Today the Laser guy came and started to restore the traction surface of the drum by deep etching it.
The surface now has the same grippy feel to it that it had when new. A Laser! Who would have thought!
Amazing technology. It can engrave in different colours and even QR codes below the surface of the stainless top layer so the design stays stainless clean for ever.
Lots of other normal engraving tricks too. For effects like, deep or through engraving to just removing a layer of paint or anodising to reveal a logo or design.
It was just a chance encounter that we heard about this. It took only a couple of hours start to finish to restore the dyno drum. Great value.
Great stuff Rob. I had the same issue on 'my' (Vash's) dynojet. Was showing up on my 100hp RZ so resorting to deep clean and ultimately tightening the straps a bit more than ideal. Not my problem (or Mike's, RIP dude) anymore.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
This must be an Ultra Ultra short carb mounting, this is a Gardner carb built into an Armstrong disc valve cover. It was also done on a Barton I believe.
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/a...&thumb=1&stc=1
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