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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #38851
    Join Date
    12th March 2010 - 16:56
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    TT500 F9 Kawasaki EFI
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    Hamilton New Zealand
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frits Overmars View Post
    Yes, you cannot do much shorter than that.
    But Armstrong only got away with it because the Gardner carb does not have an integral float that would have been severely confused by vibrations.
    Inlet can be shorter, with no carburetor and sliding throttle 'Gibs'.

  2. #38852
    Join Date
    18th March 2012 - 08:35
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    Homebuilt chassi, Kawasaki 212cc
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    Sweden
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Inlet can be shorter, with no carburetor and sliding throttle 'Gibs'.
    My intake is just 32mm long =)

    Follow my work on youtube in post below this.

  3. #38853
    Join Date
    18th March 2012 - 08:35
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    Homebuilt chassi, Kawasaki 212cc
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    Sweden
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    Thumbs up Video!

    Part two of my tzr 250 injection project.

    Please press like and subscribe.

    Part three will be last part in this series, i´ll add nitrous in that one, aiming for ~100ps to the tire.


  4. #38854
    Join Date
    3rd February 2004 - 08:11
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    1982 Suzuki GS1100GK, 2008 KLR650
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    Wallaceville, Upper hutt
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Inlet can be shorter, with no carburetor and sliding throttle 'Gibs'.

    Kevin Cameron used, because it was much shorter, a Tillotsen carb on the 350 Bighorn racer he built.
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  5. #38855
    Join Date
    20th April 2011 - 08:45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flettner View Post
    Inlet can be shorter, with no carburetor and sliding throttle 'Gibs'.
    Yup. And with your transfer port injection you won't have float vibration problems either.

  6. #38856
    Join Date
    2nd March 2013 - 15:04
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    CBX125F NS50F NS90F NS-1
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    Lower Hutt
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    429

  7. #38857
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    13th April 2022 - 19:08
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    Florence, Italy
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    41

    cooling ducts

    Hello everyone,
    I'm finishing the design for my next cylinder. It's a Honda nsr 125 racing cylinder, it'll be produced both for 110mm and for the original 104mm conrod.
    Now, i have some doubts about the right place to put the water entrance: in the original engine, the water enters on the right side of the cylinder base, and exits all the way up over the head.
    This is not good imho, cause the cool water is immediately in contact with the hot exhaust duct, and not with the transfers for which I've made also an inner cooling duct.
    Considering that there is no flow from the basement, and that to be adaptable to the original engine we cannot reverse flow, where is the best place to enter given my colling design?
    I was thinking about a spigot as low as possibile on the rear center of the cylinder base, with the exit on top of the head on the front side.
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  8. #38858
    Join Date
    28th October 2013 - 08:19
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    1992, f10 malaguti
    Location
    Italy
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    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Gradella23 View Post
    Hello everyone,
    I'm finishing the design for my next cylinder. It's a Honda nsr 125 racing cylinder, it'll be produced both for 110mm and for the original 104mm conrod.
    Now, i have some doubts about the right place to put the water entrance: in the original engine, the water enters on the right side of the cylinder base, and exits all the way up over the head.
    This is not good imho, cause the cool water is immediately in contact with the hot exhaust duct, and not with the transfers for which I've made also an inner cooling duct.
    Considering that there is no flow from the basement, and that to be adaptable to the original engine we cannot reverse flow, where is the best place to enter given my colling design?
    I was thinking about a spigot as low as possibile on the rear center of the cylinder base, with the exit on top of the head on the front side.
    come geometrie dei travasi c'è ancora molto margine a vedere le foto, per l'acqua dentro l'intradosso per far le cose fatte bene ci vuole l'intradosso grosso, così prendi due piccioni con una fava e migliori pure le sezioni. I booster la parte iniziale è migliorabile un bel po'

  9. #38859
    Join Date
    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    TZ400
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    tAURANGA
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    3,864
    I agree , having the cold water enter at the boost port , go around BOTH sides of the transfers ( not just a small hole ) right down to the deck to cool the case surface as well, then forward to the Exhaust duct.
    Exit is into the head above the Exhaust port , across the head and out above the boost again.
    I have done this on several old TZ engines by adding a copper gasket or weld on spacer plate to force flow thru the cylinder first.
    They used to run at 70*C or more , but with a widened pump impeller running at 50* is normal.

    Edit - I have been trying for years to get TM to take the cold water from between the gearbox /crankcase and take it forward over the mains , then up each side of the boost port.
    Having measured it , the transfer entry area under the cylinder, each side of the crank is bloody hot.
    Having water in the case under the Exhaust means you can also bleed a small amount around the duct that can then exit upwards to the head - again keeping hot water away from the transfers.
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    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  10. #38860
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    13th April 2022 - 19:08
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    Quote Originally Posted by beta View Post
    come geometrie dei travasi c'è ancora molto margine a vedere le foto, per l'acqua dentro l'intradosso per far le cose fatte bene ci vuole l'intradosso grosso, così prendi due piccioni con una fava e migliori pure le sezioni. I booster la parte iniziale è migliorabile un bel po'
    ciao, cosa intendi con geometrie dei travasi?
    il condotto dell'intradosso può essere sicuramente allargato, ci devo lavorare, a maggior ragione volendo entrare da dietro. Sui booster intendi la geometria del condotto o il raffreddamento?


    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    I agree , having the cold water enter at the boost port , go around BOTH sides of the transfers ( not just a small hole ) right down to the deck to cool the case surface as well, then forward to the Exhaust duct.
    Exit is into the head above the Exhaust port , across the head and out above the boost again.
    I have done this on several old TZ engines by adding a copper gasket or weld on spacer plate to force flow thru the cylinder first.
    They used to run at 70*C or more , but with a widened pump impeller running at 50* is normal.

    Edit - I have been trying for years to get TM to take the cold water from between the gearbox /crankcase and take it forward over the mains , then up each side of the boost port.
    Having measured it , the transfer entry area under the cylinder, each side of the crank is bloody hot.
    Having water in the case under the Exhaust means you can also bleed a small amount around the duct that can then exit upwards to the head - again keeping hot water away from the transfers.
    Hello wobbly, i read your previous comment on the matter, thanks for the contribution.
    Ok so having no flow from the crankcase the best option remains the rear cylinder base entry i sketched above, with enlarged inner transfer duct, am i right?

  11. #38861
    Join Date
    12th March 2010 - 16:56
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    TT500 F9 Kawasaki EFI
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    Hamilton New Zealand
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    Building a water cooled version with powervalves next. Quick and dirty, cast the cylinder then weld an aluminium jacket around it. Water cooled crankcase also.
    This direct air cooled one has done two events now, trouble free.
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  12. #38862
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    Yes enlarge the duct inner tunnel , but the water is a long way above the transfer tops as well , can you add a water channel around the outside , right down to the deck to cool
    that as well.
    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  13. #38863
    Join Date
    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    RG50 and 76 Suzuki GP125 Buckets
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    Auckland
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    .
    Special long stroke (44mm) RG50 crank with 95mm rod and big bore kit. Aiming for a turbocharged and fuel injected rotary valve 69cc RG.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ok, lets see if I have got this balance factor thing right this time.

    A = 147.8g
    B = 71.5g

    (B/A)*100 = BF

    BF = (71.5/147.8)*100 = 48.4%

    Ok, so currently its a little less than 50%. So I need to add weight to the counter ballance or drill some holes on the big end pin side.

  14. #38864
    Join Date
    3rd May 2017 - 04:03
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    1997 Yamaha rd 350
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    Russia
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    166

    Meshin reed valve

    Installed mesh in reed valve housing to dont allow broken petals damage engine

    Seems should not affect power

  15. #38865
    Join Date
    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    RZ496/Street 765RS/GasGas/ etc etc
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    Is that a real problem? Especially with Fibre based reeds.
    I've been told. Dreaming`s free.
    Think I'll go, back to sleep.
    Everybody listen, voices in my head
    Everybody listen, do yours say, what mine says?

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