ESE's works engine tuner

[porttiming124]

Thank you Frits for the information on Jan's state of health.
I just made a donation.

[aljaxon]

right i think ive got it. straight from the exit of rear cone i have a short inch length 1.5mm wall tube that is the same id as my tuned id and the same size as the rear cone exit. and the exit of that nozzle has a 45 degree chamfer. and then slotted over that is my "stinger.

im wondering can i fit my silencer straight over onto the nozzle? the silencer has a short inch length of plain tube and then a 170mm perforated tube with wadding around it and then back to a larger id plain tube exit.
maybe the perforations will help reduce the amplitude of any residual waves?

or do i need a length of plain tube stinger first?

ive noticed the smaller moped and scooter tuners seem to prefer side belly exit stingers or side bleeds as they call them. but not many race bikes seem to have them. is there a reason?


ive made a small donation because jan was kind enough to chat to me on facebook messenger for an hour or so a couple of years ago amongst other things trying to describe to me what a wave actually was so i could understand better exactly what was going on inside a pipe.

[wobbly]

Here is how I did it on the original test KZ pipe - easy to change nozzle ID.
Most tube is 1.5 wall thus with 28OD stinger it is 25 ID and the insert is 23mm.
But 1mm wall is available = 26 ID with a 23nozzle = 3mm step - this works better.
On other projects I have ended up with 5mm step and that is better again

[wobbly]

I have read Jans book - really, really interesting.
So my suggestion is we keep passing this around for what it cost - and send the money to Dolph via WISE - really easy and he benefits plus you get the book immediately.
Only $7.00 to send anywhere in a Post Office bubble bag in NZ.
Who wants mine - send DM with details.

[Grumph]

Here's one for Rob.
I had a look at the Stormer crank to do the balance factor. I want 60%.
It's had : a longer rod with a bigger pin - but hollow. Wheels machined for big end eye clearance and rod shank clearance - it's wider. Forged vs cast piston with a bigger gudgeon pin and needle rollers vs a bronze bush. So many changes.
Weighed it all up and reckoned I needed 152.8g of counterweighting for 60%.
Set it up and found that it was in equilibrium at 142g weight on the rod end.

So after all those changes it was only 10g away from where I wanted it.

[Storbeck]

Thank you Frits for the information on Jan's state of health.
I just made a donation.

I also made a small donation. I don't know Jan at all but he has added a bit of enjoyment to my life with the info he's shared on here and other places on the web.

I also have the book and it is great!

[aljaxon]

wobbly i see with that you can adjust nozzles as easily as replacing the silencer. i welded mine so its permanent. i suppose i can fit some thin walled tube inside mine with a slight top hat so it doesnt slot all the way through as long as my stinger can then slot over it.
ive found find with my small aircooled motors if i have anything like the small id outlet in the calcs i get too high temps when blasting it.


watch this video to to show how your recommendations of those percentages for header and diffuser to get more frontside power worked amazingly. showing new pipe on left and old high revving pipe on right.
both tests were using same rev range apart from at the end when the high revver carried on. obviously if i revved the high revver through the gears higher revs it could have matched the accell. but the intention was to design a road use/cruiser pipe.

[Frank S.]

watch this video

Real world dyno 😅



btw: ordered the book and donated😎

[SwePatrick]

I tried to search.
But where do i order the book?

Rgds

[aljaxon]

Real world dyno ��



btw: ordered the book and donated��

once fitted an akrapovic full pipe pipe to my zx6r j1 and used a hd camera to film 3 runs with different jets. left fairings off so i could change them quickly. same road. then i transferred all the clips onto adobe premier pro and i cut the clips at exactly 6k rpm and then again at red line. and again at a few other chosen rpm ranges and it was then a simple case of seeing which was quickest ie the longest clips were slower. with the video software you could get accuracy to within a 25th of a second. and as you say real world.
plus i was doing it in every gear 2nd upwards at speeds up to 155mph. 5th gear. obviously it was a private test road.

i got big differences and and did the same shimming the needles as well. it was a 2000 model and it got a reputation for being fast and most people, even pals slagged it off saying it had a zx9 motor in it. people heard about it and used to get in touch to race their 600's against it. lots of head shaking after i beat every one in a straight line. this was in 2010 so not bad for a ten year old bike.

ive just tested a pipe i made this week against those two using video clips and its even quicker!!!

the more accurate the tacho and speedo the more valid the results are.
im surprised a lot more tuners dont use video to gauge results instead of dyno's.
plus its a giggle.

[Frank S.]

I tried to search.
But where do i order the book?

Rgds

Just email to : LegacyJanThiel@gmail.com
They will send you the infos

[Gradella23]

felt like doing some manual work this morning, before and after rear cylinder skirt (was also plated in the meantime so the change in surfaces finish)

[SwePatrick]

Can we pull it off?
The chase for 80whp

Find out here:

[wobbly]

If you simply keep winding in advance and it keeps making more power every time , then it was way retarded to start with or the compression is too low - what is it ?
And something is seriously wrong if it looses power on Methanol " because its getting hot " when doing a back to back . That should never , ever be an issue on jungle juice.
You should be able to do 3 back to backs at a minimum with no power loss - again something is very wrong and it needs addressing.
One of the most important lessons I learnt from Jan was using EGT to get the tune dead the same every dyno run.
You need to find and settle on a specific egt the run ends on for every tune change - be it reed petals or ignition advance as the Exhaust temp in many cases has way more influence
than the change you did has.

[Vannik]

One of the most important lessons I learnt from Jan was using EGT to get the tune dead the same every dyno run.

You need to find and settle on a specific egt the run ends on for every tune change - be it reed petals or ignition advance as the Exhaust temp in many cases has way more influence than the change you did has.

This is what Jan said on the Dutch site, I translated it with his permission a long time ago: