ESE's works engine tuner

[wobbly]

The ATAC tube had a simple flat butterfly as close to the header as I could get it. The plates were machined , a bunch together on an angled mandrel in the lathe , so
they sealed perfectly without jamming.
The pipe was checked on the single mule dyno and once the plate was closed it had no effect on power over a " normal " pipe - yea a real pleasant and rare surprise , I drank a couple of very expensive reds with Bill that night.
The next day I discovered a bunch of pipe power in the sim , so I had to do the red thing all over again - great idea that of killing the slowest brain cells.

[speedpro]

. . . and was running 305 Km/Hr down the shute @ 12400 , a record to this day I believe.

Maybe. I calculated 311k @ 9,000rpm with 15:27 gearing on my turbo. The cop with radar at the kink said 312k. Disappointing at the time but I doubt there was a way to get around the kink going any faster.

[wobbly]

Didn't know that , we could have gone way faster , but as it was 1st gear out of the hairpin was already a nightmare - pulling 12400 in 6th was overving to hell.

[F5 Dave]

Um, perhaps 2000 ish remember sitting at PI and Mark Willis was trying to qualify. I remember the name as he shared it with childhood next-door neighbour.

[lodgernz]

I did try " fixing " the T port by having the outer edges the highest , to ameliorate the huge difference in duct lengths the T suffers from , that is helped in the 3 port
by having the Aux lower , but although this did work I believe I could have made more power using the simple 3 port concept.

Wobbly, for those of us stuck with a T-port cylinder, do you think it worthwhile to try this idea of raising the outer edges?

[Grumph]

Wobbly, for those of us stuck with a T-port cylinder, do you think it worthwhile to try this idea of raising the outer edges?

And if it is, any suggestions for the duct shape ?

Thanks.

[F5 Dave]

And just for weirdoddity my somewhat fallible memory suggests (from peering in one 10 years back) the VJ23 RGV has both Bridged port and auxiliaries . It was also mounted on the cases on-the-piss by say 15 degrees perhaps to give the inlet and outlet an easier path as V angle was closed up to 70* from 90* of first 21s and 22s.


Oh the tangled Web we weave. . .

[wobbly]

Well the big issue is being able to keep the correct port timing , when modding an existing cylinder.
The two things to keep in mind is that having the hooks just outside the outer corners pointing at the bore center is a huge factor for the port Cd.
and of course all these years later you have my Wobbly Duct geometry , that works perfectly with a T port.
The exit should be oval , its width being the diameter of the header entry = 100% of the port effective area , and its height should give you the 75% area.
Honda A kits were very close , with 41 X 35 oval , no steps , into a transition out to 41 Dia.

EDIT - The VJ23 porting was horrible - worst of all scenarios duuno what the hell the just graduated sewing machine engineers were thinking.

[jfn2]

Wobbly
How much higher would the outer T-port heights have to be, on adverage, compared to the center height, 1 deg, 2degs or more?
As I think of this, I suppose it would be just as easy to run the simulations to find out. What do you think?

[wobbly]

On the 59.6 stroke I ended up with 1.6mm , no idea now what that was in timing.

EDIT I tried putting a -1.5 mm slant height into a T port and it doesnt seem to work.
Contact Neels to do an update to allow this geometry.

[wobbly]

Just for info I discovered Avejas is advertising his deto knock sensor box again on Ebay - havnt seen it for ages.
Ive used dozens of the things for over 10 years , they work perfectly.
You can order the 0-5V output for data logging - as well as add an ouput that shorts to ground when deto is happening.
This is great with an Ignitech input that retards a setable amount when its grounded.
The Bosch sensor with an 8mm hole can be got for nothing from wreakers or new on Ebay as well.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/18573910441...3Avlp_homepage

[jfn2]

Wobbly
Thank you for the reply!

[SwePatrick]

I have installed launchcontrol on the piaggiotwin and was about to test some settings in the vario and ignitech: 'just a warmup pull first and then i´ll be good to go'



A few days earlier, when i did a fast test of the function:

https://youtube.com/shorts/0qrw3mhTJ...JpsPrHkGH7My1o

In the later part of the carnagevideo i setup my tzr250 again that i have converted to injection.
I have changed some fuelstrategy and did a couple of runs, a little bit off in power, but i´ll find it again, no problemos, just some mapping to do.(i have dyned as best 80.3rwhp with injection, now it was 74.x)
This day i wanted to test some other things to learn more about the MAXXECU that i use.

Edit: i also have installed larger injectors for future test with methanol, so this throws away the fuelmap some also.

[aljaxon]

Just for info I discovered Avejas is advertising his deto knock sensor box again on Ebay - havnt seen it for ages.
Ive used dozens of the things for over 10 years , they work perfectly.
You can order the 0-5V output for data logging - as well as add an ouput that shorts to ground when deto is happening.
This is great with an Ignitech input that retards a setable amount when its grounded.
The Bosch sensor with an 8mm hole can be got for nothing from wreakers or new on Ebay as well.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/18573910441...3Avlp_homepage

would this work with say an rd350A with powerdynamo (vape) ignition? or even a single cylinder moped? im not that bothered if it doesnt do the retard under grounding with every ignition stystem. as long as i get a good early knock detection in order to have enough time to shut off. where does the sensor get mounted? cyl cyl head or crankcase?

i fitted egt gauges on my rd350A thinking it would be an early warning system. all they did was tell me what temp my engine melted at.

for £100 gbp (with sensor) this seems well worth it if it would indeed give me enough time to avoid holed pistons or damage.

[wobbly]

Well if you melted an engine when using egt , all that says is you were not using them correctly at all.
But the answer about the deto system is that it is adjustable to a preset amount of sensitivity , that will light up several led's to show deto onset , that then has a huge red light the instant
real deto starts.
So plenty of time to back out of it , before damage.
But in the case where you get deto onset , the egt has already flatlined or started to suddenly drop , so why do you need another gauge to ignore.