ESE's works engine tuner

[Vannik]

Hello Neels.
Before I had nothing in front of the carburetors.
Last week I made myself a lexan box for 3 reasons.
-the noise
-always breathe in fresh air.
-calculate cfm with the air meter.
But I admit that I have doubts about the tuning.

That should help but the flat sides of the box will still transmit a fair amount of the noise. Can you add stiffeners to the outside? Just thinking.

Nice looking set of pipes!

[porttiming124]

Good idea, I'll try to stiffen the flat sides.
Thanks for the pipes.

[SwePatrick]

New release of my TZR/TZ project:

[Tim Ey]

Does anyone know how many amps the Ignitech DC CDI P2 Race is able to shift with the Multifunction outputs? Will 0.85A at 13 Volt (11W) work?
BR
Tim

[wobbly]

The Ignitech P2 Race manual says " Outputs can switch resistive or inductive load up to 2 A ".

[wobbly]

I want to add some epoxy to the front B port wall to make it perpendicular to the bore like the Aprilia scavenging regime.
So I have taken silicon port cores , and will cut these to use as forms.
The only epoxy I have ever used is JB Weld or Devcon F putty. Both are way to viscous to be able to "pour " it down between the duct wall and the form wall - even if the casting
is sat in an oven for a while , they will soften but go off with the heat before filling the vertical void completely.
Any suggestions on what to use in this scenario that WONT fall out.

[lodgernz]

I want to add some epoxy to the front B port wall to make it perpendicular to the bore like the Aprilia scavenging regime.
So I have taken silicon port cores , and will cut these to use as forms.
The only epoxy I have ever used is JB Weld or Devcon F putty. Both are way to viscous to be able to "pour " it down between the duct wall and the form wall - even if the casting
is sat in an oven for a while , they will soften but go off with the heat before filling the vertical void completely.
Any suggestions on what to use in this scenario that WONT fall out.

Devcon B putty is more liquid, so you can orient the cylinder to the angles you want, then pour it in and it settles at those angles It's still pretty viscous, but it does eventually settle.
Type B is a bit hard to find in NZ though.

[Javier Ruda]

I want to add some epoxy to the front B port wall to make it perpendicular to the bore like the Aprilia scavenging regime.
So I have taken silicon port cores , and will cut these to use as forms.
The only epoxy I have ever used is JB Weld or Devcon F putty. Both are way to viscous to be able to "pour " it down between the duct wall and the form wall - even if the casting
is sat in an oven for a while , they will soften but go off with the heat before filling the vertical void completely.
Any suggestions on what to use in this scenario that WONT fall out.

Hello Wobbly, a did it recently, for changing the roof angles and the B front wall angle. I used JB Weld and as you mentioned it will not pour by gravity.
What I did is to add some tape at the transfer exit and also the entry, for doing a kind of basin. Then I filled the basin with the help of a long enough stick, and tried to make it as flat as possible while keeping the cylinder vertical (exhaust down, intake up). Once cured, I adjusted the shape retiring the excess epoxy with a rotary tool.

All very very time consuming, specially the roof angles.

[TZ350]

.

Rebored the cylinder and chamfered the ports before gluing up the transfer porting mistakes, actually over cutting the transfers and then gluing them back up turns out to be a real easy way to get a smooth symmetrical port. I had mistakenly cut the ports so they opened 110deg ATDC when I really wanted 116.

Now I have a really good experimental barrel. So I degreed up the motor again at 116 ATDC and measured how far down the cylinder the piston was and cut a piece of plastic pipe that length. Covered it in plastic wrap and inserted it into the cylinder. Now the glued transfer ports will all be exactly the same height, timing and match each other.

I warmed the cylinder with a heat gun and when the Devcon F glue was put in the warm transfer port it ran freely like water and leveled out very nicely. By gluing a port in three stages I could get a very nice curve to the transfer roof. I made the rear ports flat and the main ports angle up at 29degrees.

The great thing about this gluing thing is that its so easy to change. When I finally get the scavenge pattern that I want I will be able to make a permanent copy with a new cylinder.

Pic-1 setting the angle of the port
Pic-2 warming the cylinder
Pic-3 gluing the port, doing this in three stages makes for a nice curved port roof
Pic-4 glued ports and the plastic former

.

Hello Wobbly, a did it recently, for changing the roof angles and the B front wall angle. I used JB Weld and as you mentioned it will not pout by gravity. All very very time consuming, specially the roof angles.

Time consuming alright. You might find JB weld pours easier and smooths out nicely in a warm cylinder. We never had any problems with JB weld coming loose in the ports.

[TZ350]

Before I start on my Wobbly engine I wanted finish the Ex side port mods on my old air cooled engine and run it up on the dyno.

First step is to prep a new piston, I have been using a dished piston but Wob tells me they are not that great so future ones will be flat top.

Attachment 230863

The oiler holes for the exhaust bridge need plugging.

Attachment 230864

Normaly I would weld them but was persuaded to try glueing them with some super duper stuff thats as tough as shark shit.

And hey, this is Buckets, we are allowed to try new ideas.

So the were prept up with a dremmil.

Attachment 230866

And the finished result.

Attachment 230865

Then new holes were drilled for oiling the bridge between the exhaust and transfers.

Attachment 230862

The Ex/Trans bridge

We used Belzona for sealing the bridge oiling holes but I suspect you could use JB weld here too.

[TZ350]

.
Using "Thread Tools" at the top right of the page you can find all the images on this thread and look through them. Plenty of interesting stuff there.

[Condyn]

Wobbly, not sure if you have enough room in the “crevice” between the cut core and the B wall for this, but I have recently used small ID hard plastic air brake line and a ram rod to push devcon into a narrow/deep water jacket. It worked but it was not simple as the devcon pushes hard.

[136kg136ps]

Wob, JB weld is viscous enough to inject with a sturdy syringe. I have had to soak the tubes in hot water on colder days to get it thin enough. I use one similar to this. A small greasegun would likely be suitable as well.

[jfn2]

Hello 136kg136ps
How do you clean the syringe after your done using it? Where do you get a setup like this? Nice idea!

[yatasaki]

I agree for belzona 1111, there is one even better and more liquid ,belzona 1391T. You can even heat it up to pourbetter . It's a coating, not filler but works well and should stand 250°C