Best check if CDI-2 and Race version if going that way.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Best check if CDI-2 and Race version if going that way.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Highway Biker
TZ, you are running it total loss I assume? How long does a battery last you? I am setting mine up tomorrow and have not been able to decide if I want a charging system.
Forum whore
Yes, pay to check.Originally Posted by F5 Dave
Our preference is a 12V charging stator/rotor, 12V rectifier/regulator and capacitor (no battery) for a push and go system.
Total loss, the 5 Amp hour battery lasts me the whole day.
Some times a charging system is not possible or practicable so we run total loss. As an experiment I connected the 18Volt 5 amp hour Ryobi battery to the car heater electric water pump that we use on our bikes. It pumped water for two hours before I got bored and went to lunch. With the 18V battery I had to use a 24V temperature gauge. The gauge switches the pump on/off and is very good at keeping the coolant temperature at its pre set target value of 45 deg C. 40 made the most power but 50 carburetted much better. So 45-48 it is. With these cheep Chinese switchable temperature gauges we found we can keep the coolant temperature in a very tight range.
Highway Biker
Thank you for the great info!
Forum whore
TeeZee , when using a high voltage total loss supply, you used a 24V temp controller that is readily available - what effect does this have on the electric pump.
And secondarily what is that pump commonly used on , so I can get one.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
2 smoke lover
TZ350, did you ever get that straight cut primary gear conversion done on your GP125?
Compare Pornography now to 50 years ago.
Then extrapolate 50 years into the future.
. . . That shit's Nasty.
Forum whore
Yes, but no measurable power gain at the back wheel. Well not any I could measure with the dyno. Total disappointment.
Forum whore
The temperature gauge comes in three flavors 12V, 24V and 230V all with a 10A relay. We usually use the 12V version but with the 18V battery I found I needed the 24V one.
On 18V the 12V temperature gauge would work every time until the motor started then the gauge would switch itself off !!@#$$%????. Started again after I switched the motor off.
The relay switches out whatever the input voltage is. So 18V in on the red wire and you get 18V out on the yellow wire. Both black wires are common earth.
Universal water pump. All from Aliexpress. Delivery is usually quite quick 2-3 weeks. Also you can setup on Aliexpress a Chinese version of Paypal.
The 12V water pump seems to handle the 18V Ok. Anyway I have used it running 18V at several race meetings now. Our other bikes use these pumps too but on 12V.
There are other axillary water pumps that push more water but of course, draw more current too.
Forum whore
Cool , thankyou , you have a bench power supply, could you apply 15.6V to a 12V controller and see if it shuts down please.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Anorak
I am guessing you could not float the main bearing?
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
I tried on RG50. No dyno difference back to back.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
If you put a scope on the powerail you probably would witness the power rail being shaken up and down enough to cause issues and a reset but too fast to show on a meter.
The temperature gauge comes in three flavors 12V, 24V and 230V all with a 10A relay. We usually use the 12V version but with the 18V battery I found I needed the 24V one.
On 18V the 12V temperature gauge would work every time until the motor started then the gauge would switch itself off !!@#$$%????. Started again after I switched the motor off.
The relay switches out whatever the input voltage is. So 18V in on the red wire and you get 18V out on the yellow wire. Both black wires are common earth.
Universal water pump. All from Aliexpress. Delivery is usually quite quick 2-3 weeks. Also you can setup on Aliexpress a Chinese version of Paypal.
The 12V water pump seems to handle the 18V Ok. Anyway I have used it running 18V at several race meetings now. Our other bikes use these pumps too but on 12V.
There are other axillary water pumps that push more water but of course, draw more current too.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Forum whore
Just of interest if I upload the 3XV head cover model to Craftcloud 3D, the price delivered for two is around 380 USD. This cost the same amount here in NZD to be done in a CNC mill. I could reduce the material volume by about 25% as it was optimized / simplified for CNC , where it costs more to remove more.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Scooter boy
looks nasty wob, but isn't it always cheaper and better from a thickness/weight perspective to cast head covers since they're not too complex shapes?
Forum whore
If I optimized the shape to be laser sintered ( minimized material volume ), I think that using 3D printed core/mold generation and casting - followed by subsequent CNC finish machining would be an interesting call.
The cost of CNC for a small part like this would probably be 50/50 CAM and setup Vs machine time, so maybe more cost effective if doing alot more than just 2 prototypes.
But as it stands it has minimal material removed as machine time is expensive in multi axis CNC.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
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