Originally Posted by F5 Dave
about sums it up Dave.
You had me going too Giggles but I see it now, very nice!
Was worth a crack
You had me going too Giggles but I see it now, very nice!
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Didn't we trade that off for shots at Ohakune? Besides, you gave me that crank seal if I promised not to beat you in the GP the next day. And didn't.
Made you work for it though.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Aclass fukeruperer
Spent the evening nutting out my engine mounts, origional plan didn't quite line up the sprockets well enough. Started by making dummy mounts out of ply and checking it all lined up and had space where space was needed.
I have used 12mm alloy plate along with 25mm alloy bar which I drilled out to fit a 10mm high tensile threaded rod. Hopefully I will get away with only the two engine mounts at the rear and not need to make a front mount point as well... (I did find an old post of yours TZ that you had an alloy mount crack at the BOB... what kind of alloy did you use? - by the time I read this I had already committed to using aluminum so will wait and see how long it lasts)
Also while looking at the mounting problem last week I came across this little gem. Think the frame was in an accident at some point as the l/h foot peg has also dented the swing arm, that and a bit of bad welding in the first place perhaps.
Hope to have a mate help me weld up the crack next week as well as welding the round bar to the alloy plate to help with strength(?) and ease of installation/removal.
Forum whore
then mounts that we had crack and cause trouble are only related to the RS frames
we are using a radiator mount to hang the frount of the engine off
this is my fix for the monting point. Ned kelly did it differently
"Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
“Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know.” - Cullen Hightower
Forum whore
here is TZ after he gave my poor little 50 a bit to much in the wet
but still rode to finish
I wonder why the caned his life insurance
"Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
“Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know.” - Cullen Hightower
Forum whore
Dead right a flat torque curve gives a straight line power graph.
Here is sim of new F3 motor, RZ400 with around 120RWHp, near perfect throttle connection.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Bucket Racer/Crasher
I used a flimsy mount at the front of my TS100 engined bucket and it vibrated very badly. Tying it solidly to the chassis fixed a lot of the vibration. My experiance says you will need a solid front engine mount to the steering head area.
Forum whore
No, that was an act of god...
Forum whore
Yes you did so beat me you 2nd me 3rd. That is why I am still harping on about it. My wife says I am obsessive but she says it like it is a bad thing....
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Did I? it was so long ago. Ok next time yer over in wgtn I'll buy you some beers.
Heck I'll even extend that to Wanganui for the boxing day races.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Forum whore
Filled transfers as suggested by Wobbly.........
Forum whore
Copper fins and spacer plates.
Not sure if all this extra cooling is needed but if you are going to make a copper head gasket, it might as well add something to the cooling. Same with spacer plates, you could have a plain old alloy one, or one made up of fins that helps keep heat from the barrel getting to the crankcase and inlet tract.
In my engines I have been using flat top and concave pistons, and they easily allow the copper head gasket to be brought right into the combustion chamber to form a cooler running squish band. This could be done with domed pistons although it would be little more difficult getting the shape right.
By using a copper head gasket/cooling fin and an original composit head gasket the thermal barrier of the composit gasket and the extra cooling of the copper allows the head to run way cooler than the cylinder, maybe 60-80 deg C measured near the plug with the cylinder nearer a 100 after an outing around Mt Welly.
Forum whore
Ignitions....... The KX80 flywheel tapers fit the GP/TF/TS/RG crankshafts, the KX125 flywheel taper is too big.
Trangular KX80 stator fits with some shims to keep it central. This is a fixed point ignition where the timing is static and has been very successful for us.
The round KX80 stator needs some machining to make it fit, the inside needs opening out to fit over the main brg oil seal and the outside needs trimming a mm or so. There is some retard built in, so might not suit every one, but the trigger works well with the Ignitech and the HV charge coil can be re-wound for charging the Ignis battery.
We never had much luck with these RM ignitions on our bikes. Spent hours on the dyno with the GP's and RG50's, never got good curves on our engines with them. Get them right at the bottom and they are over retarded at the top or right at the top and the bottom falls apart.
They are good ignitions but there is to much retard and in the wrong place for us, goes to show that a good curve for one engine might not suit another. The stator is a good looking piece of kit, replace the blackbox with something else or home made and they could be quite good.
The SPARKER DC-CDI-P2 race Ignitech Ignition that we use, ava from Wobbly or Ignitech http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm
2 weird 2 live, 2 rare 2 die.
Jesus H christ. That would fuck the 600s too.
Nice.
2 weird 2 live, 2 rare 2 die.
People have probably used it a lot in the past, but I would avoid threaded rod. If it does vibrate inside your mounts, the threads COULD (not saying it will) chew out the ally plates, or chew out the threads. If the latter occurs you are effectively left with about 8mm of steel rod.
I cut some threads on the ends of some 10mm 4140, to make some STRONG studs.
Actually I have about 4m of it left at work if anyone wants some.
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