Yes absolutely critical. I made a test bench for checking the ignition systems. 1.5 kw engine with maximum 22000rpm.
With Ignitech SPARKER DCCDIP4P4 I was completely confused for two days due to interference of the second spark after 90 degrees. And yes, the reason was the wires located close to each other. No such problems with the factory units that I tested, looks like Ignitech is very sensitive unit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1-JTUKL0Uk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5GkXjsijc0
Yes the P4 seems extra sensitive , I ended up using CAT 5 audio cable with the shield grounded at one end for the triggers - problems gone.
Not only is it shielded, the wires are twisted pairs, on the scope there is no noise at all.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Thanks for the advice.
Ignitech allows to choose "Interlock input" function: this option works only for pickup system 1 lobe, 2 pickups. With elevated levels of electromagnetic
interference (e.g. at the time of ignition) on some motorcycles (e.g. Ducati) unwanted activation of the pickup input may occur,
especially that input which at the moment is not active. This option prevents unwanted activation blocking input 2 during
activation of input 1, and vice versa: blocking input 1 during the activation of Input 2. This option, however, may cause
problems, when combined with automatic determination of sensor polarity..
After turning off function, the troubles were even greater.
20 years ago I had this problem with my homemade long duration spark ignition for V 90 2 cylinder engine. Then got out of this by using a more powerful thyristor BTW69 1200v, with less control sensitivity. Just more revs was needed to open thyristor gate.
I´d like to give you guys some advice.
Ignitech and such in all it´s glory.
But if you are having the budget, go for Maxxecu Mini(or better)
Working a treat on twostrokes.
You get a LOT of functions, and also more hardware to use(from the car tuning world)
I take the opportunity to post new video below, i run Maxxecu Mini in my tzr build.
In this episode i test the launchcontrol function, just raw no finesse, and also no slipperclutch.
You can dial in the launchcontrol with delay and gradually roll off(to help traction)
But not tested in this video, i just wanted to start somewhere and hitting it hard.
You can set limits and compensation to almost everything.
Say you run EGT´s into the maxxecu, you can use it to active keep egt´s in check.
Say you get low battery, you can compsate charging time of the coils to compensate for that.
Well. you can do almost anything.
If beeing a mathmatical guy you can also build your own tables.
The onscreen tacho in the video is done by using canbus to obd2, then into my android device.
Enough of that
here´s the video:
Enjoy!
https://youtu.be/ZiJxtf3ZKgw
And oh...
Even though my posts might be hacked to bits, it is creating topics for the keyboardwarriors *lol*
Keeping this thread alive =)
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
Try this for price
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007913580606.html
Hi, very nice test bench, thanks for this picture.
I wanted to make it as simple and fast as possible, so I chose wooden shields.
Bought a set including the motor and control unit five years ago from ebay.
This is CNC spindle air cooling motor, diameter is 65mm 1.5 kw, shaft thickness 14mm, colet ER11,
Control unit HY01D523B 1.5 kw.
Another possible 1.5 kw engine is 80 mm in diameter and shaft thickness 19mm, colet ER16
Made this bench only this winter and didn't think it would be so helpful. I immediately identified several ignition errors that I could not understand when trying before, directly on a motorcycle.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256177930...%2C5kw&itmmeta
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115617328...parms=amclksrc
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/405780924...%2C5kw&itmmeta
https://www.ebay.com/itm/355838255230?_trkparms
Robert.
My ignition dyno I built 25 years ago - it uses an industrial vacuum cleaner motor with a simple AC lamp brightness control that
usually gets mounted on the wall with a light switch. The light switch changes the field coil polarity to reverse the rotation.
Works perfectly from about 100 rpm to 20,000 with a 2:1 cogged belt and pulleys.
I mount it on a bench next to the dyno and use the spark triggered signal to generate rpm data , and used to use a VHS video camera to plot the
angle/rpm on a large protractor on the shaft.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Thank you all.
Regards,
Francis.
Compare Pornography now to 50 years ago.
Then extrapolate 50 years into the future.
. . . That shit's Nasty.
Yes , and no ,the outer aluminum cable shield is grounded to the supply battery earth only at one end. The trigger grounds go to the separated trigger earth pins , that
have their own isolation circuitry .
I also used the same Cat 5 cable wire pairs for the servo and PJ wiring, as these also can inject ignition noise into the sensitive input pins.
Twisted signal pairs form a very high natural rejection of this power supply line " noise " that seems to be more of an issue with the P4 units having 4 CDI packed into the same box format.
But as I said , if the coil drive wiring is physically separated, and resistor plugs/caps are used , then any noise issues are largely eliminated.
The other audio amp trick of creating a common single earth ground point for the coils/case/battery and ECU power supply also eliminates circulating noisy voltage sources from affecting the super sensitive
ignition chip supply.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
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