ESE's works engine tuner

[wobbly]

Im pretty sure I shagged her mum in a dream the other night.

[TZ350]

Im pretty sure I shagged her mum in a dream the other night.

Your dream would have had to take you to Vladivostok.........

[Vannik]

As we do not read Help files except as a last resort I thought it a good idea to create a YouTube channel to release some videos. Somewhere along the road the idea is to also convince Wobbly to add a video or two

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUSGpqikWtE

[wobbly]

Shit I will have to get a haircut, the missus reckons I look like a homeless man.
I thought the Albert hair with the GiGi goaty was quite sporting.
Better idea is just to do a screen shot video with my audio over, seeing me wont add anything except rabid derision - especially if I do a TikToc and get my tits out for you.
EngMod 2T Only Friends.
Now you know what the 2T stands for.

[Frits Overmars]

As we do not read Help files except as a last resort I thought it a good idea to create a YouTube channel to release some videos. Somewhere along the road the idea is to also convince Wobbly to add a video or two
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUSGpqikWtE

Excellent initiative Neels !

[Frits Overmars]

seeing me wont add anything except rabid derision - especially if I do a TikToc and get my tits out for you.
EngMod 2T Only Friends. Now you know what the 2T stands for.

God help us, I'd rather start grinding camshafts

[Condyn]

Your on camera skills are quite pleasant Neels. If you second guess that like I would, please do not. Bravo. When you get to the post 2t phase, many of us novice users who have not invested enough time would really enjoy diving into depth on how to investigate certain situations, and how to better utilize the information available for developing pipes etc. If I am not mistaken, similar information was in the “overview” write up that I may have received when purchasing the suite. I enjoyed that type of thing. Great job Neels!

[wobbly]

OK Frits , in the spirit of endeavoring to keep your sanity intact, I will promise to keep my blouse on at all times on the big screen.

[diesel pig]

Yes , and no ,the outer aluminum cable shield is grounded to the supply battery earth only at one end. The trigger grounds go to the separated trigger earth pins , that
have their own isolation circuitry .
I also used the same Cat 5 cable wire pairs for the servo and PJ wiring, as these also can inject ignition noise into the sensitive input pins.
Twisted signal pairs form a very high natural rejection of this power supply line " noise " that seems to be more of an issue with the P4 units having 4 CDI packed into the same box format.
But as I said , if the coil drive wiring is physically separated, and resistor plugs/caps are used , then any noise issues are largely eliminated.
The other audio amp trick of creating a common single earth ground point for the coils/case/battery and ECU power supply also eliminates circulating noisy voltage sources from affecting the super sensitive
ignition chip supply.

I have watched some boy racer videos on earthing there shielded cables. Are they doing the same thing? I have ever done this before and I want to get it right.

Also, after watching 2strokestuffing new video. I am wondering have I missed a video of him explaining the cooling circuit on his 50cc? As the way it appears in the video the cooling would go in the back of the cylinder and straight out the head. unless there is the plates in the cooling jacket redirecting the flow of the coolant.

[wobbly]

Mr Pig , the best physical way to reduce radiated EMI is a twisted pair with a shield grounded at one end, but with an Ignitech I have never needed to use this as long as the coil drive wires
and the trigger/input wires are physically separated down each side of the bike.
Those wires are at each end of the loom plug for a reason.
I have some CAT6 lying around and use it when wiring carbs with TPS and solenoid PJ , as its tidy and convenient all in one cable loom.

Re Alex's water - the best cooling circuit is as I have described many times - cold water in above the boost port , with a separation plate between the cylinder or head that only has water holes
allowing water to enter the front of the head above the Exhaust port.
Thus cold water is forced forward over the transfers toward the Exhaust duct, and only then is allowed into the head.
This warmer water then crosses the head and exits above the boost.
An additional plus is if there is water in the case below the Exhaust duct, then a couple of 3mm holes from the case up under the duct helps cool that with extra cold flow.
Also if the cylinder is angled forward, this means air can be trapped above the boost in the cylinder, so a small air lock bleed is needed at that high point directly under the exit spigot as well.
I have tested this with great results in KZ as well as the TZ/Banshee style engines used for various projects.

EDIT - the separation can be as simple a plain copper gasket with only the bore, the clamp bolts and a pair of water holes each side of the Exhaust duct.
This worked well on several LC racebikes that had a gasket anyway ( full of holes and slots ).

[SwePatrick]

Hey!
Finally i got my fingers out!
Testdrive of my molested SGM GA207 Kartengine.

Setup:
Ported.
144cc (Woessner piston)
42mm Keihin PWM
E85 fuel
18-1 compression ratio(total)
Homemade billet head

[Storbeck]

Wobbly

I'm interested in how this scheme might be modified for a watercraft engine (jet ski) where the water traditionally enters first into an exhaust manifold and into the cylinder through water jackets around the exhaust port.

The most obvious answer might be to block off the passages between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder then modify the cylinder to flow exactly as you have described (so maybe I already have the answer), but interested if there is anything that the watercraft allows that is different than something that has a radiator. I have a virtually unlimited supply of cooling water at ~80 deg F (a lake) and the flow is very small and thus the lines are very small, so I have the freedom to run cooling circuits every which way if so desired. I could isolate the head from the cylinder with it's own cooling circuit or specifically cool the exhaust port or the crankcase or whatever.

Also, conventional wisdom for water cooling an exhaust chamber on a watercraft is as little water and as hot as possible (which is still not that hot, ~190F maybe), but I'm not sure if the manifold portion of the exhaust would be best to keep as cold as possible, or to restrict cooling flow to get as hot as possible. Intuitively I feel like I want the exhaust port in the cylinder as cool as possible, but the manifold (starting maybe 2" or so away from the cylinder wall) to be as hot as possible (again hot is relative here because we're talking about water jacketed aluminum and silicone hoses).

Mr Pig , the best physical way to reduce radiated EMI is a twisted pair with a shield grounded at one end, but with an Ignitech I have never needed to use this as long as the coil drive wires
and the trigger/input wires are physically separated down each side of the bike.
Those wires are at each end of the loom plug for a reason.
I have some CAT6 lying around and use it when wiring carbs with TPS and solenoid PJ , as its tidy and convenient all in one cable loom.

Re Alex's water - the best cooling circuit is as I have described many times - cold water in above the boost port , with a separation plate between the cylinder or head that only has water holes
allowing water to enter the front of the head above the Exhaust port.
Thus cold water is forced forward over the transfers toward the Exhaust duct, and only then is allowed into the head.
This warmer water then crosses the head and exits above the boost.
An additional plus is if there is water in the case below the Exhaust duct, then a couple of 3mm holes from the case up under the duct helps cool that with extra cold flow.
Also if the cylinder is angled forward, this means air can be trapped above the boost in the cylinder, so a small air lock bleed is needed at that high point directly under the exit spigot as well.
I have tested this with great results in KZ as well as the TZ/Banshee style engines used for various projects.

EDIT - the separation can be as simple a plain copper gasket with only the bore, the clamp bolts and a pair of water holes each side of the Exhaust duct.
This worked well on several LC racebikes that had a gasket anyway ( full of holes and slots ).

[katinas]

Konig outboard cylinder with cooling passages between inside transfers wall and liner, similar like on Aprilia GP and KR3 500 cylinders.

[Storbeck]

Konig outboard cylinder with cooling passages between inside transfers wall and liner, similar like on Aprilia GP and KR3 500 cylinders.

Cool stuff, but unfortunately the motors I play with are parallel twins with relatively small center to center distance so the transfer ports are squished together, the classic "elevator shaft" transfers, so there is no chance to put cooling passages between the transfers and the bore, or around the outside for that matter either, over the top is how they already are designed, although not in the way that Wobbly described. Wouldn't be hard to modify them to be that way though.

[wobbly]

Jetski's give you the opportunity to really do some great things with the cooling circuits.
In the 1100cc SeaDoo world champ engines , they had water jacketed pipes. This meant I could double the
cold length of the Exhaust duct, with hot water on the other side - this gave way less deto level from hot A/F being shoved back past the piston.
The head was a completely different circuit, with hot water taken from the pipe to reduce the temp delta between the combustion chamber wall and the expanding hot gasses.

On the dyno it was found that what I thought was a good cylinder exit temp, was way too cold.
We ran big clearances , but there was more power to be had with the exit temp up at 70*C due to bore friction I think, than down at 50*C to over cool the incoming transfer charge.

The cylinders with close bore centers like all the RD/LC/TZ/YPVS/Banshee's respond real well to the cold transfer tops, that in stock form had a completely random " water everywhere " approach.