ESE's works engine tuner

[diesel pig]

Interesting stuff, husaberg. I just checked out EMOT's site and they don't appear to list this Hi-temp paint anymore. As a typically Buckeeter I was thinking more about my cooling mod's as relates to a existing set of crankcase's but if one had a blank design sheet, I too would go for a cooling jacket between the gearbox and the crankwell. I am starting to look at the cooling of the lower half of a Two Stroke like how boy racer's think of there intercooler's on there turbo engine's.

[husaberg]

Interesting stuff, husaberg. I just checked out EMOT's site and they don't appear to list this Hi-temp paint anymore. As a typically Buckeeter I was thinking more about my cooling mod's as relates to a existing set of crankcase's but if one had a blank design sheet, I too would go for a cooling jacket between the gearbox and the crankwell. I am starting to look at the cooling of the lower half of a Two Stroke like how boy racer's think of there intercooler's on there turbo engine's.

Swede Patrick mentioned he made his one mixing welding anti-splatter ceramic coat and paint

This stuff is likely very close to what the emot was using not sure how it would cope with petrol
https://insulationcoatings.com.au/th...ation-coating/

https://www.u-buy.co.nz/product/8BKH...4tB1sdOpvTaFmo

this can be purchased down to 1.5 lters
https://www.carboline.com/products/p...4900-Aluminum/

chrome-extension://bdfcnmeidppjeaggnmidamkiddifkdib/viewer.html?file=https://altexcoatings.com/uploads/books/6d629c6d3e93f5a066c8ddb719625bc8/fullbook/1.pdf

https://www.tegrastate.eu/p/inral-sp...-white-glossy/

but I would get a can of ceramic splatter and a can of high temp exhaust paint and spray 50-50 into a lid and voila....

[diesel pig]

It's good to know there are options. I would like to know wobbley's opinion on Hi-temp coatings. As he strikes me as a man who doesn't put up with things that look like they work but are more show than go.

[Frits Overmars]

I just checked out EMOT's site and they don't appear to list this Hi-temp paint anymore. As a typically Buckeeter I was thinking more about my cooling mods as relates to a existing set of crankcases but if one had a blank design sheet, I too would go for a cooling jacket between the gearbox and the crankwall.

I don't know whether Martijn Stehouwer ever offered that Russian insulation varnish on his EMOT website. It's rather specialized stuff and most people who might be interested in it know Martijn personally, so there was no need to advertise it. There are bound to be other useful items that aren't listed on his website; it can't hurt to send an email.

A cooling jacket between the crankcase and the gearbox is definitely a good idea. But it doesn't necessarily have to be a liquid jacket.
Most plastics have poor heat conductivity, especially compared to aluminium. I once worked on a 125cc Rotax kart engine, which was actually a 250cc engine into which Rotax had placed a 125 cc crankshaft. There was plenty of space around the crankshaft in the crankcase, which I filled with a plastic ring that I had cut from a 4-inch water pipe.
It worked great. Not because of the reduction in crankcase volume (which was actually more favorable for power than the small crankcase volumes of the “real” 125 cc engines of the time), but because it significantly reduced contact between the fuel/air mixture and the hot crankcase walls.

[diesel pig]

I don't know whether Martijn Stehouwer ever offered that Russian insulation varnish on his EMOT website. It's rather specialized stuff and most people who might be interested in it know Martijn personally, so there was no need to advertise it. There are bound to be other useful items that aren't listed on his website; it can't hurt to send an email.

A cooling jacket between the crankcase and the gearbox is definitely a good idea. But it doesn't necessarily have to be a liquid jacket.
Most plastics have poor heat conductivity, especially compared to aluminium. I once worked on a 125cc Rotax kart engine, which was actually a 250cc engine into which Rotax had placed a 125 cc crankshaft. There was plenty of space around the crankshaft in the crankcase, which I filled with a plastic ring that I had cut from a 4-inch water pipe.
It worked great. Not because of the reduction in crankcase volume (which was actually more favorable for power than the small crankcase volumes of the “real” 125 cc engines of the time), but because it significantly reduced contact between the fuel/air mixture and the hot crankcase walls.
Attachment 357659

Thanks for the idea about the plastic pipe as a heat gap, Frits. There are larger cc versions of the engine I am looking at using, which get the cc's by longer stroke's which should mean more room in the crankwell for a larger crankshaft so hopefully making room for the shorter (and hopefully smaller diameter) stroke crank I want to use and the plastic pipe heat gap.

P.S. I may well send Martijn Stehouwer a email about the paint but I will wait until the new year.

[wobbly]

Frits friend Roland Holzer when he designed the Modena KZ engine, engineered a " plastic " insert that completely lined the intake surfaces from the reed block mount face , all
the way thru the case up to the Transfer duct entries.
Thus the inducted A/F never actually contacted the hotter metal, except down the sides of the crank.
It somehow got through the CIK tech inspection of the 50 units for homologation, but quickly the CIK banned it from any future engines.

The ceramic coatings I have used were developed to prevent heat from migrating through to the metal substrate - I have not had a look or had any experience with coatings that do the reverse
ie ,preventing heat from migrating from the substrate out to the coatings surface - mind you, the coating used on the inside of 4T headers is so effective the pipes are only warm to the touch on the outside at idle.