ESE's works engine tuner

[husaberg]

Originally Posted by TZ350
Yes it is getting a bit wide...........[/B]
Think Alpha 1960's with the crankshaft shaped as the disk valve but with the carb in the std location for a reed or piston port?

worth revisting anyone?



I know its an old idea but so is the Toroidal head.


Villiers had Toroidal heads that is in 1962-63 and they stole that from diesel technology only later to be rediscovered 30 odd years later for gp bikes.
so why not look back.

It is truely neat to see the two stroke still getting developed imagine what a two stoke would be like if it had all the technolgy thats been thrown at the 4 stroke in the last 30 odd years ,
Think variable height transfers port as well as 2-3 stage exhaust valves variable inlet heights lengths ex pipe lengths coupled with 4 stroke smart ign ECUs fuel injection etc.imagine how drivable it would be.
Everyone has tried to keep the 2 stroke simple and i think that was the downfall.it stagnated then couldn't cope with the pollution regs.

I had an idea with a std disk valve set up ie disk on the side with carb to have the disk driven via a jack shaft so the disc opertes in reverse to the crankshaft rotation.

With the disk valve in reverse you can use bobweights like an old scool advance retard to retard the disk timming so with higher revs you get more peak power and its still driveable down low.
Plus you get the added advantage of a larger disk valve which improves the flow area at the start and finish of disk valve opening.If you get my idea.

One last unrelated thought is with the 30 od hp air cooled 125 is how long does the power last for on the dyno say dyno reading after 30 secs all out at max revs.how much are you losing with power fade even with the copper fins etc.

[Bert]

A bit on how RC Servos work........ http://www.horrorseek.com/home/halloween/wolfstone/Motors/svoint_RCServos.html#RCServo

The interesting part is the control signal. An RC servo motor doesn't just run when you give it power. It's an intelligent device, and you must tell it what you want it to do. The servo is controlled by a series of pulses, wherein the length of the pulse indicates the position to take. You need something that drives the servo with that control signal.

And more here........ http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/RC/F_Servos.html

While this is a valid point it is only one form of RC servo; even then it could be resolved with some simple electronic.

but here is another solution for you: (Jaycar)
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView....d&form=KEYWORD
pull type solenoid. all you would require is a return and stopper for you armature. you will require more onboard power; but it would be a simple solution to start with; if you only want open/close

[kel]

I think TeeZee would agree with you, he has talked about that aspect of the FXR's.

After riding TeeZees bike last Sunday, Kel thought it arrived at the next corner much faster than he expected and that caused him to slow down too much. Whereas his FXR sort of arrived at the right speed.

Gee that makes me sound like a right klutz, but generally correct. The FXR with its lack of power just flows around Mt Welly, the focus is on carrying the speed into and through the corner i.e. its going into the corner that you have to make the pass because it doesn’t have any real drive on exit.
The GP with so much extra power really required a different approach, it was like riding the old 250's, corner entry was used for wiping off speed, it was the exit where it all happened! But that wasn’t the aim of the last outing.
All going well TZ will let me have another crack (with a set of Dunlops please), if I use the box and keep it revving then surely it’s going to smash my FXR lap times?

Concrete pump? Mate that’s a bit unkind, perhaps the bike weighing twice as much as me has an advantage?

[wobbly]

If you are using an Ignitech then by adding an RZ or R1 powervalve servo means you can program any position you like into a moving slide or rotary "timing changer" - easy.
Having a movable "slide" in behind the closing edge of a rotary valve, pushed/pulled into position by servo cables,would be easy and reliable.
Get on with it.

[Bert]

If you are using an Ignitech then by adding an RZ or R1 powervalve servo means you can program any position you like into a moving slide or rotary "timing changer" - easy.
Having a movable "slide" in behind the closing edge of a rotary valve, pushed/pulled into position by servo cables,would be easy and reliable.
Get on with it.

Wobbly; have you played around with the more modern Exhaust servos? say a ZX6r??
I'm assuming/hopeing that they run on a similar config/wiring as a Yamaha powervalve servo.
And given heaps of people have been cutting them out (seems to be a common so called improvement) there should be a nice supply of them sitting around the place...

Wobbly/Rob
in-terms of rotary valve; would there be some merit into a design similar to the TZR Exhaust valve (a rotating drum, with cutout) for this intake application; seems like a simple machineing job (two holes intercepting at 90 degrees) and would restrict/disturb the flow less at the higher revs than the butterfly.??

[TZ350]

Thanks, there have been some very interesting ideas posted on this page.



I have some of these steppers from an old printer but in the hold position they are pretty current hungery as the motor has to draw current to move or hold its position.



The RC Servos geared motor means the servo does not have to be drawing motor current when it is holding its position, but it does have to receve a stream of (goto) position commands, even if its goto the same position its already at (ie hold position).

From what I have read, the RC Servo has a handy feature, when it is not receving a goto signal it returns to its mid point.

http://www.societyofrobots.com/actuators_servos.shtml

This is handy because the midpoint could be used to hold the V Tec valve fully open and when the rpm is below the setpoint (power band) the Ignitech can "turn on" a 555 timer that will send a stream of goto fully closed commands to the RC Servo.



Then when the rpm hits the power band the Ignitech turns of the 555 timer and the RC servo returns to its midpoint, fully opening the V Tec valve.

Simple as.

I would like to use the Ignitec and its power valve servo control feature to "pull" a slippery pipe. I have had a look at the setup page in the Ignitec software but would like to know more about how the Ignitec is interfaced electrically with the power valve servo.

[wobbly]

OK, here is some info on how to utilise the servo option on the Ignitech.
The servo has 5 wires, two are 12V +/- and the other 3 are the servo feedback positioning pot.
Always wire the two functions on separate plugs.Once you have the servo connected to the blade or whatever, disconnect the servo motor power plug.
Then on the screen you will have a readout for the servo position, as mV or as a % if using the RACE box.
I have never used the % option so here is how to program the mV setup.Drive the servo to the travel limit ( in, or down or whatever) by gripping the servo wheel with vise grips.
Cycle it back and forth a few times to get an accurate position that takes up any small slack in the cables.Note down the "servo measured" value on the screen.Then wind the servo around to the opposite limit, note this value down.
Then in the servo screen you can enter the two values of fully up, and fully down, with an rpm span between them.
Use a few of the extra points in between, so you can, if needed, force a non linear movement with rpm ie not a straight line.
Hit program, turn off the ECU,turn it on again, and it will cycle up and down,as it has been programmed.
You can check the up and down positions and compare the "servo measured" to the "servo desired" on screen, in real time.
The hysteresis should be set usually at around 100mV, less will speed up the response, but go too low and the servo will "hunt" around the values programed.
The RZ servos are all getting old and shagged - the newer R1 servo is mechanically very similar but uses a special molded in plug - I have the right ones to match.
The R6 and ZXR ones are not as well made, the shaft isnt supported at both ends properly.
Here is a sample wiring setup and a PV curve, set to start opening at 7200 and full open at 9000, with about 1V of span between.
You could use this to rotate a spool like an RZ, a blade like a flat PV or even the 1/2 throttle plate if you wanted to.

[husaberg]

[TZ350;1130067866]Thanks, there have been some very interesting ideas posted on this page.

If you want to try a RZ sevo motor you can try one i have.brought a couple of years ago for a cr500 project.

The simplest method I could think of to activate the vtech valve would of course to be a spilter box on the the throtle cable much like on an autolube pump .It would be real simple and be modulated with the throtal opening rather than revs.I realise this may be overly simple.

[jasonu]

just Talent.

Well that leaves Trustrum (F5Dave) out...

[jasonu]

Gee that makes me sound like a right klutz, but generally correct. The FXR with its lack of power just flows around Mt Welly, the focus is on carrying the speed into and through the corner i.e. its going into the corner that you have to make the pass because it doesn’t have any real drive on exit.

A lot like riding a 50 in F4 or an RS125 in F3.

[bucketracer]

A better simple 555 RC Servo driver, parts list and construction details http://sarconastic.tripod.com/servodriver.html

[bucketracer]

The Turnigy 760HV servo tester was custom designed to be the most accurate and accommodating servo tester available. Its quality case design reflects the thought and design of this device. The 760HVs versatility comes from the high-spec potentiometer and its high-end NEC chip which can handle low(3v) and high(12.6v) voltages.

$20 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Toys-models...-376901657.htm



Could be easy to convert to the RC Servo driver required for the V Tech Servo, easier than making your own driver from scratch anyway.

[gamma500]

That old Honda pipe mod drawing is completely useless, it was never used by the factory in any form.The rear cone is insanely steep.
And the so called A Kit pipes were designed to work with high Ex ports - where the customer engines all had 83*ATDC to let them rev without an electric powerjet.
I have much better designs with a ton of dyno time on them, but of course they are all specific to 50Hp 125 cylinders, not 30Hp 100cc designs.
Here is one that has won dozens of 125 kart titles, but again it should just point you in the right direction for the 100.

What effects does expanding belly have in that kart pipe?

[Bert]

The Turnigy 760HV servo tester was custom designed to be the most accurate and accommodating servo tester available. Its quality case design reflects the thought and design of this device. The 760HVs versatility comes from the high-spec potentiometer and its high-end NEC chip which can handle low(3v) and high(12.6v) voltages.

$20 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Toys-models...-376901657.htm



Could be easy to convert to the RC Servo driver required for the V Tech Servo, easier than making your own driver from scratch anyway.

Now your talking...
Not such a stupid idea.

[speedpro]

What effects does expanding belly have in that kart pipe?

The expanding belly is a common problem with older bucket racers. No natter how good the pipe if there is an expanding belly the bucket will go slower. Talking to Gaz last night and the problem of expanding belly came up. Gaz has an expanding belly but I think it's the hole in his leg that'll be slowing him down at the moment.