Thanks for the info re the pistons
So you have a coach builder weld up your engine? Gee you SI guys are rough.
I've done the same on several engines, but use Devcon etc as required to help stave off distortion.
That being said he's a top bloke & welding I've seen is good work indeed. Pity DC doesn't make it on here, look forward to catching up with him hopefully at the next BOB.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Interesting Kiwi invention, a 2-Stroke engine with no conrods or traditional crankshaft.............
Web page http://www.shepherdengine.com/our_technology/index.html
U tube Startup demo http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WN_ziute-c
I didn't have much luck with the V Tec tonight, it all tested out OK and I could toggle the valve open and closed using the Ignitec ignitions test program.
But when the motor was running the RC Servo would jiggle all about and not hold the valve properly closed but when it hit 7,000 rpm its change point the servo would quickly open the valve and hold it there.
After some thought I think the problem is with the signal reverser, I think it is picking up noise and I will have to replace it with another servo tester, so that I have positive drive open from one tester and positive drive closed with the other.
But we did find something interesting, the soft close rotary valve (starts at 70 finishes at 80) red line seems to give more over rev and marginaly more hp and the disk that closes at 85 atdc gave a little more drive and less hp, the reverse of what I was expecting.
Soft close on the right.
Used this stuff to 'glue' my reed valve in place, perhaps not an ideal use as it failed after a days running. Is still holding strong where I used it to fill in the crank case however.
I have been tossing up about buying a new carb, currently running a standard mikuni roundslide 24. After seeing what Ned's bike can do, I have my doubts as to wether it would be money well spent.
I have heard from FXR riders that a better carb might help make a little more power low down, and comparing dyno charts between TZ and Ned's engines it may be true.... or this could just be the porting differences?
Neds is still running the original 24mm round slide Mikuni,(with a re shaped bellmouth). Thomas's bench tests with the manometer showed that the OKO 24 that we had flowed a small but significant amount more than the Mikuni. If your going to buy a carb an OKO might be a good buy and cheap enough for a new carb.
The exhaust ports are much the same, the big difference in porting between Neds and TeeZee's is mostly in the transfers, TeeZees are low and wide to maximize the blowdown time area. Neds barrel is an early Team ESE effort and was lifted 1.5mm to get the transfer time area required but that approach limited the effective blowdown time area that is possible and that (probably other things as well) limits the power.
TeeZees carb is a 24mm flatslide but the inlet timings are the same as Neds, the real induction difference is the inlet port size, TeeZees has been enlarged as much as possible, Neds is still pretty much standard with a clean up.
The pipes are different too, Neds is a RM copy and TeeZees is an old Honda RS125 pipe.
Thomas and TeeZee spent a lot of time looking at carbs, I think they have some ideas about making their own if they ever need to, or commissioning a short run of 24mm OKO's finished to their own design and sold over the net.
The OKO 24mm flat slide is nearest the engine and Neds Mikuni that was re shaped with Devcon, is the one closest to Thomas.
Depending on the setup you can use Devcon to glue inlets on. My RG50 had a (piston port) spigot shape into a round loose bore glued & it never failed after many many years. Think the current one is just a plate glud on with Devcon too. I've done reedblocks but got them tacked on the corners for strength & then glued the rest together. Less chance for distortion that way.
How you use it is important. Clean surface properly & some centre punch indentations to 'key' into if needs be.
Have used Devcon a lot & JB Weld seems good too. Never tried your stuff.
Kneedit has it's place, but only as a filler, not to attach with any strength or withstand heat etc.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
So the powerjet versions don't need a fancy ignition to control them, you can run them on any bike?
Yea the Pratleys is a bit like Kneadit. Will try again using JB weld/Devcon and drilling/punching keys as you say. Tacked on sounds like a good idea, bit more difficult to get done.
Its to hold a modified crankcase reed in place, I'l try put up a pic later.
Last edited by ac3_snow; 15th June 2011 at 09:48. Reason: did some research, doh.
If you mean the OKO power jet then no ignition interface is required, they work on the vacuum at high velocity principle.
Pratley is a putty and needs to really be worked on to the surface i.e. smearing with some force. I roughed up the surface with the grinding tips to give kind of golf ball indentations, seems to have held but then my motors not running yet!
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