Hang on and check the scale. and also this link. http://otosport.addfinal.com/2011/04...ngle-cylinder/
Umm well. igntech is the only way to go and only after you have spent hours on the dyno with you knock ear phones. Ask Pumba if he still has the one I sold him. I will get another one day.
wtf? What is that picture doing there? Didn't realise you'd got that from a proper site.
The RS50 has always used the AM5 or AM6 engine which is a moto minarelli engine used by several euro manufacturers as well as Yam in the last TZR50 like Carls (earlier one like Andrews was their own). But why is there a pic of a twin? They go to great length to say its a single & have a pic of a twin & say GP inspired, but there is a kickstart 250 engine, clearly an RGV250 in RS makeup. (I was dreaming believing it was two 50 barrels, clearly 125 barrels with PVs etc. Power of suggestion & all that).
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
The only way you would see any advantage running a twin is if you have the knowledge and wherewithall to build it properly.
This would mean running it to around 20,000 rpm to achieve a higher bmep than the single.
And as we already see in the 100 class, those engines dont rev as hard as the 125 GP single motors, when to see the advantage of a 50mm stroke the 100cc should be going to at least 14000 all day. - so basically, forget it.
A twin wont make as much "torque" but will make alot more "power" if done right.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
Spent monday afternoon with the good guys at ESE helping me balance the crank. In the short time I had it running, anything not done up tight on loctite'd on was rattling loose.
Turns out the 'balance factor' was only 29% and with an ideal range of 50-65% it took a fair bit of strategically placed drilling to get the counterbalance weight about right for a 55% balance factor.
Also have used some JB weld to put the reed block back in place with some good terrain gouged into the cylinder and block for it to hang on to.
Still put a couple of screws through into the cylinder just to be sure - cheers gigglebutton.
So with a reed block which should last more than a days running and a hopefully less violent crank will be good to see how it goes.
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Reedblock looks nice & flat. Those transfer dividers could do with some sharpening though, not sure you could shave with them just yet.
That a TS engine yeah? The sure shake when they are asked to do more than the 6000 max chasing sheep they were designed for. Or maybe AX, think they were 1/2 reed too.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Sharpen the transfer septums and I will personally bend you over and do horrid things with your arse.
Sharp leading edges are used on supersonic aircraft, when your transfer flow goes supersonic then so will the bike.
Look at the fastest two stroke in the worlds septum, does that look sharp???
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
I was taking the piss
I will admit those are even more square than I would have thought though.
[edit]
Hmm, I've noticed the back of the boostport duct in that pic. It's given me an idea about an engine & how shrouded it may be. Thanks.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Nice Work Snow; I like what yo have done with the reed block and intake (and looking back the changes you have made to the casings to improve flow & volume).Make sure you really loctite the f##k out of those screws (holding the reed & now the block) they always come loose on those motors.
If your reed block still loosens; try drilling & pressing little (2-3mm) solid dowlls into the casing and matched to the reed block (building up a "locking foundation") and use 24 hour (high temp) araldite to glue the whole lot solid. it will never come off again.
I'm sure Speedpro will also mention that; one large solid reed (carbon/glass what ever) will work better, the standard suzuki reeds are proned to tear (and flutter above 5k) and make their way into cranks and bores (generally making a mess of all your good work)...
interesting![]()
Some MOTA 2-Stroke software on Trademe for a $1 reserve ................... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=387576544
You can learn quite a bit about 2-Stroke tuning by messing around with this engine development software from MOTA.
Cutting a 1/2 moon in the piston skirt and creating that duct/slot in the spigot was worth something like 3 Hp in the old tandem twin Rotax.
The factory copied the idea off the 82Hp engine we sent to them from ZipKart, where I worked when Hines won the Superkart title.
They didnt believe we had that much power, but our Hennan Froude eddy current dyno was dead accurate, and their dyno said 85,thanks to the new JL pipes we developed and months of late nights wearing out pistons.
In that engine the entry to the boost port was badly shrouded and cutting away the spigot worked wonders.
Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.
yeah my case reed engine is like that (shrouded) but I'd had my eye on other things so it woke me up to that issue. Cheers.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
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