ESE's works engine tuner

[F5 Dave]

Yes you are in the ballpark. If you give me a full run down of all mods I will predict your jetting to within allowable Mikuni jet sizes (or specify a 2mm drill bit).


Many will miss the subtle sarcasm; read Jetting over internet on heavily modded bikes won't achieve any results worth salt. For pilots just try a different one each session & you will know what it suits pretty soon. The wrong pilot means its horrible off closed throttle so you will be reminded most every slow corner.

[ac3_snow]

lol cheers dave, was expecting an answer along those lines. That is a good help to see what I'm looking for tho in terms of good/bad get size.

[ac3_snow]

So have been fairly busy the last week. As you know I had my engine apart to re glue the reed valve and try and prevent the crank from shaking everything to bits. Also enlisted a little help for some weight savings.

So crank balance worked well! still vibrates a little, but I feel that it is vibrating at mid-low revs and is running pretty darn smooth at higher revs, will confirm this in more time.

Reed valve is now holding much better, did a more permanent job with JB weld and a couple of screws to hold it in place. (didn't want to tack weld it in place as there is a rubber? type surface which the reed seals against and didn't want to damage this)

Found some slight damage to the bottom of the barrel which may have been cause for a air leak, fill it up and file it down.

I had also epoxy'd the cases to fill in the space taken up by the old reed valve. Was a little bit suspect of the pratleys epoxy so decided to re-do this to make it more permanet. Turns out it was stuck fairly good, with my precise modifications to help it stick, it shouldn't be coming out in a hurry.

Got it running again and had the opportunity to get it on a dyno! So spin it up and before I get a chance to even look at much, bam stops quick smart. uh-oh
Strip it down to find a bearing which wasn't cooperating. Had trouble with this particular bearing on sunday trying to put the cases together, so I guess I still didn't have it quite right. Think there was some side load on the bearing due to my cock up during assembly. So off to the bearing shop, no sweat new bearing. Ready to put it back, damaged bearing took the oil seal with it, back to the bearing shop. So buy the time I get all this done and back together got one quick chance for another spin on the dyno, bloody great machines sure beat pushing it around all the time. Runs much better, still rich on a 180 jet so drop to a 160. Didn't have a chance to get a power run but at least it's running (near enough) right now!

So list of things to do is:
Still need to sort out the idle/pilot jet.
I don't know that the timings right, but I wouldn't know much difference really so will see how I go for now.
Try and borrow/make a leak down tester to check everything is sealing up properly.


And there is also a pic of my nice new subframe. Aluminum, weighs 800 grams! weigh, weigh better than the original steel item which was 3.8kgs, just don't know how it will go in a crash test...
Now if I can do something about the 4.5kg gas tank and get my new pipe on there I might be down to around 85kgs.

Sorry I know it's not as exciting as those damm sexy pipes wobbly posted up

[wobbly]

Just a small point re main bearings.
You should have the crank floating - ie spin the crank in a lathe with the rod taped down and polish the main journals so that the bearing inner race just slides on by hand.
Some engines have one end locked in place by the drive gear, but then I just float the other side.
In fully floating cranks shoot for a min of 0.2mm and a max of 0.3mm side clearance by shimming behind the bearings,or machining the step on the journal back ( or deepen the case pocket.
And always use C3 or C4 fit bearings,fiber high speed cages are best ( expensive) followed by plastic, I would never use a steel cage in a race engine.
You would be amazed how free a floated crank spins.

[F5 Dave]

I've used steel when immersed in Gearbox oil, but resin for crankcase oiled bearings. Always assumed that with that much oil they would be ok & so far. . . Must admit I've never polished them down like that, just given a tap to centralise. Perhaps I should look at that.


Snow, erm what is that chassis?

[SS90]

I've used steel when immersed in Gearbox oil, but resin for .......

But then again, you have Never worked in the industry....

Any reason for this mind numbing advise?

[marsheng]

In early stages of this thread, the Jaycar programmable ignition was experimented with - Did anything good come out of that ?

[Buddha#81:Me]

But then again, you have Never worked in the industry....

Any reason for this mind numbing advise?

Why do you have to "work" in the industry. I know heaps about stuff that I dont work on? Maybe explain what ya getting at instead of being the usual cock?

[jasonu]

But then again, you have Never worked in the industry....

Any reason for this mind numbing advise?

Yeah Dave jeez you're dumb...

[Buckets4Me]

In early stages of this thread, the Jaycar programmable ignition was experimented with - Did anything good come out of that ?

Yes it was found that $( dont know how much) on a nice new shiny bit of bling worked way better
and cost less and was faster to set up etc etc etc plus it did more thingys

Edit: At the time E.S.E where playing with the Jaycar ignition aftermarket ones where $1200+ and to much.
Now you can buy one from Wobbly for less than half that. So makes sense to do a few hourd overtime and buy one.
Plus you can get them to do other tings as well. like turning on and off water injection or teh vtec idear or a powervalve in the exaust.

so dont waste your time and go ask Wobbly how much and what they can do for you.

[Yow Ling]

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...9&d=1236457147

[bucketracer]

I've used steel when immersed in Gearbox oil, but resin for crankcase oiled bearings.

Hi ac3_snow, TeeZee does the same as F5 Dave ...........

GP Crank Assembly



Phenolic caged main bearings, Koyo 6205 and 6304 FG C4 max rpm in oil 15-17,000.

The brgs have been fitted so the open side of the cages face the oil feed holes. The phenolic cages are more reliable than the usual riveted cages which can fly apart under the inertial load of quick crank acceleration, like blipping the throttle.

TeeZee's post gives part numbers for the GP's Phenolic caged main brgs, TF/TS ones are possibly the same.

Koyo uses the suffix FG for Phenolic caged and C4 is the clearance, C1 small ... C4 large.

[gav]

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...9&d=1236457147

roflmao

[wobbly]

One thing some have overlooked here, is that plenty of us know fuck all about stuff we do work on in our chosen industry as well.
But back to more useful time wasting.
C4 isnt just the end float - its the total radial clearance.
Usually its designed in for where the bearing is pressed onto a shaft ( expanding the inner race) and pressed into a housing ( crushing the outer race).
In our application it also gives the case the ability to move around due to heat expansion and not take up all the end float.
Floating at least one inner race allows the crank to self center and reduces rolling friction heaps, doing both with a set amount of total end movement is even better.

[Buddha#81:Me]

One thing some have overlooked here, is that plenty of us know fuck all about stuff we do work on in our chosen industry as well.
But back to more useful time wasting.
C4 isnt just the end float - its the total radial clearance.
Usually its designed in for where the bearing is pressed onto a shaft ( expanding the inner race) and pressed into a housing ( crushing the outer race).
In our application it also gives the case the ability to move around due to heat expansion and not take up all the end float.
Floating at least one inner race allows the crank to self center and reduces rolling friction heaps, doing both with a set amount of total end movement is even better.

See that there is some usefull info......means fook all to me, but at least its constructive.